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Gs650e Won't start (Chatters)

  • Thread starter Thread starter sandrael
  • Start date Start date
S

sandrael

Guest
So guys please help out the failed "Do it myself" motorcycle newb. My 1982 gs650e was starting and riding ok, then I just changed the oil and next day it had difficulties to start, and the following it just wouldn't at all.

When I press start button it makes this awful chattering sound as if something was to explode :(
And engine doesn't turn over I don't think...

So I was going to clean the carbs, did that put them back, changed spark plugs (thinking might be the problem, and they were really dirty) and tried to start it after re-assembly and nothing again. Just chattering sound when I keep pressing start button.

Battery seems to be in good condition since the light is on when key is in etc..

Also previous owner put on the bike some kind of ultimate "electrical kill switch" without which bike won't turn on eve with the key in.

I traced the wires from it to the fuse box, and it was connected to the first two fuses from the top, when I unplugged the wires from under the fuses. It wouldn't even light up with a key in. What the hell is that swtich doing ?

If I am newb in general mechanics,than I am even worse in electrical so please do share your expertise what to start looking for and how to rectify the issue.

Thanks to everybody!
 
"...Battery seems to be in good condition since the light is on when key is in etc.."

This doesn't prove much, so charge battery up and measure its voltage. The "chattering" could be low battery causing solenoid to go on/off repeatly.Or use a NON running vehicle as jumper battery to see if bike now cranks over.
You said it was "starting and riding ok" , so it must have to do with what you did and not just be a coincidence.

Regarding PO's theft deterent/kill switch; does this bike have fusebox cover so you can figure out which fuses are in top two positions that PO fiddled with? (my 650 has different box)
When you "cleaned carbs", just what technique did you use?
How long have you had this bike?
 
"...Battery seems to be in good condition since the light is on when key is in etc.."

This doesn't prove much, so charge battery up and measure its voltage. The "chattering" could be low battery causing solenoid to go on/off repeatly.Or use a NON running vehicle as jumper battery to see if bike now cranks over.
You said it was "starting and riding ok" , so it must have to do with what you did and not just be a coincidence.

Regarding PO's theft deterent/kill switch; does this bike have fusebox cover so you can figure out which fuses are in top two positions that PO fiddled with? (my 650 has different box)
When you "cleaned carbs", just what technique did you use?
How long have you had this bike?

I will be trying to jump start it from car's battery today, so will report how that goes.

I understand that it is unlikely to be a coincidence sadly enough :(

It does and I will let you know very soon what fuses it is affecting, and when I cleaned my carbs I did not completely take them apart (did not un gang them) and soaked them in pine-sol which made them very clean and fresh :) Afterwards topping it off with cleaning all opening with carb cleaner. (not the rubber parts though of course)

Thanks for reply, will tell you how it goes with jumper cables!
 
Me....

A. Battery charger

B. If no charger. Push start.

C. Once running (2-3k rpm). Check the charging voltage at the battery.

D. Start reading BassCliffs web site. Plan a maintenance project every week. You never stop working on a old motorcycle ;).
 
So it was a battery indeed. You helped out a lot, but now rpms go crazy high 4000!
And nothing happens when I try adjust the knob should it be loosened or tightened for rpms to drop?
 
Loosen the idle stop screw, but.......if it appears to do nothing
You probably have airleak(s) at carb boots since you disturbed them when you pulled off carbs- might be hard to get them to seal now. But it also revs high when "choke"lever is activated ( or stuck on),so check cable to make sure it releases at carb end.
Are you using the stock airbox with filter installed ?
Once you get it to run adequately ,do the quick test on your charging system to make sure it's ok

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192
 
Loosen the idle stop screw, but.......if it appears to do nothing
You probably have airleak(s) at carb boots since you disturbed them when you pulled off carbs- might be hard to get them to seal now. But it also revs high when "choke"lever is activated ( or stuck on),so check cable to make sure it releases at carb end.
Are you using the stock airbox with filter installed ?
Once you get it to run adequately ,do the quick test on your charging system to make sure it's ok

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192


Wow everything you said helped, I adjusted the boots (however one of them still always tries to slide back) and adjusted cables and it is fine now!!

Also yes I have a stock airbox, now the only issue after riding it for 20 minutes it seems really, really hot! I mean I could fry an egg on it, or if I spat it would start to sizzle. Is that normal?

It is really hard to judge because engines do run hot usually somewhat, also does anybody know what is the cooling system on this bike ?

Thanks again, you guys are awesome!
 
There is no cooling system, per se, but for the airflow over the cooling fins. Running around town, I can certainly put my bare hand on the engine briefly, and a gloved hand for a lot longer. Rain falling on the engine at a stop will sizzle and steam.

Running lean (too much air/not enough gas) can cause the engine to run overly hot, and burn things up (like valves). If you were having problems with the boots and idle, then you might still have a leak.

Get moving on covering all of the points in member Nessism's "Newbie" thread.
 
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