Switch wiring...quick question.

[Guest]

How do the white/red and white/green wires plug into my new switch? They were originally wired into the master ON/OFF headlight switch.



Diagram


New switch diagram


Everything seems to be working just fine even without them hooked up. These are the only two remaining wires from my OEM harness that are homeless. Thanks for the help!

matt

[mattfeet]

Ok, so when the headlight master is set to ON the power runs back to the AC generator and the rectifier. Since the new switch isn't set up that way, don't I just want to tap them into the HL main wire (red) of the new harness? I have red (new) connected to orange (OEM) for main HL wire, which comes from the ignition switch.

[jsandidge]

You will want those wires connected to.... nothing. Make sure all 3 of your stator wires are hooked up directly to your R/R.

[mattfeet]

Whoa whoa whoa...it's like I was sitting on a fastball and you just came in and threw me a curve. Why do I do that? Is it something GS owners hAve found to improve the stock harness? I'm glad I asked.

Matt

[mattfeet]

I found this in an old post "As a half-way measure, you will find that one of your stator wires connects to a white wire with a green stripe. Disconnect that connection. You will find another wire that is white with a RED stripe that probably leads to the plug into which the R/R plugs. Find the bullet connector in that wire, disconnect it. Now, connect the stator wire that went to the white/green wire and connenct it to the white/red wire that is going to the R/R. Doing this will maintain your connector on the R/R, but your real goal should be to minimize the number of connections between the stator and R/R."

Is is it ok to just connect these two wires for the time being?

[jsandidge]

Your original switch cut out one phase of the stator when the headlight was turned off. Now that your headlight is always on, you want all 3 phases of the stator to be flowing through the R/R. Voltage coming out of the stator is AC. The R/R converts it to DC and regulates how much voltage is being put into the bike. Everything on the bike runs on DC voltage which must be capped off to prevent frying stuff.

[mattfeet]

So can I connect those two wires together or do I need to rewire the RR and stator now? The bike wasn't having any issue at all before...I'm just adding new switches.

Matt

[jsandidge]

The white/green and white/red wires from the harness side can be connected to each other or just left loose. They aren't doing anything. The important thing is that all 3 stator wires are connected directly to the R/R.

[mattfeet]

Can you link me to a post or diagram showing what I need to do? I don't have a desktop so searching a bunch on my iPad is cumbersome. I appreciate the help!

Im im about to finalize all of my connections. I know you said I could do either/or but would it be best to connect or leave disconnected?

[Steve]

Can you link me to a post or diagram showing what I need to do? I don't have a desktop so searching a bunch on my iPad is cumbersome.

Sorry about your luck.

Find the three wires coming from the stator that connect to the Rectifier. One of those wires will be interrupted to go to a white/green wire in the harness and then continue via a white/red wire to the Rectifier. Disconnect both of those wires, connect the stator wire directly to the Rectifier wire.

The other end of those white/green and white/red wires are the ones at your now-defunct headlight switch. Yes, it's possible to connect them together, but there are a few other connections and plugs along the way, so eliminating that section of the harness will ultimately help your bike.

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[mattfeet]

Sorry if my earlier post frustrated you. I'll cap the wires off and look into the other items.

Two more questions:

How can I wire my kill switch trigger to work as a passing switch? (Flashes brights)

Are the orange and gray wires hooked up correctly as shown or do they need to be flipped?

[mattfeet]

Also, thanks for the assistance so far everyone!

[jsandidge]

Sorry if my earlier post frustrated you. I'll cap the wires off and look into the other items.

Two more questions:

How can I wire my kill switch trigger to work as a passing switch? (Flashes brights)

Are the orange and gray wires hooked up correctly as shown or do they need to be flipped?

Never heard of that being done. So you are planning to lose the kill switch function?

[mattfeet]

This is the switch I bought and I read that you can just wire the trigger function as a passing/flashing. My right hand switches already have a kill so its redundant.

[Steve]

How can I wire my kill switch trigger to work as a passing switch? (Flashes brights)

Silly question coming back at ya, but why not just use the high beam selector? The 'kill' switch would not be a good choice for a passing switch, as it latches. A passing switch should be spring-loaded and momentary-contact.

Besides, what would you use for the 'kill' switch?

Are the orange and gray wires hooked up correctly as shown or do they need to be flipped?

Not sure what you are using as reference points, neither can I tell what it is you have them connected to.

In the stock wiring, the orange wire is an extension of the orange/red wire that feeds the lights. In the headlight switch, it is connected to the gray wire, which will then feed the tail light. You will have to examine your own wiring to see if that is the way you have it connected.


If you get really stuck, let me know, I'm just up the road from you.

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