SH775 positive wire wiring question

[Guest]

Bike is '78 750E.

I'm wiring a SH775 and have been following the recent discussions on the stock wiring as preferred, see posplayer's diagram below. I'm not sure of the highligted path below for my setup. I have a Dyna-S, I've done the coil relay mod too.

For the higlighted portion below, do I wire to the Dyna red?

[posplayr]

You just wire the Red R/R(+) to the same place as the original R/R. If you look at your schematic you will see that the relationship of the battery, main fuse, ignition switch and R/R(+) are all as indicated in my simplified diagram.

You should still clean your fuse box and any other connections between the battery and the R/R and follow the simple single point grounding.

1.) Single point ground:

• Battery(-)
• Harness(B/W) ground
• Frame

2.) R/R(-) to SPG

all come together at a single point before running a single wire (short wire less than 1 ft 14 ga))to the R/R(-)

[btbarb]

Working on the SPG, that is the plan. I don't have the stock wiring to refer to, the RR was wired direct to the battery.

After looking at the stock schematic I think I got it, the starter relay has two red wires coming from it, one goes to the battery and the other goes into the harness under the tank, the red going to the harness towards the front is the one I think that goes to the IGN-SW.

[Charlie G]

Working on the SPG, that is the plan. I don't have the stock wiring to refer to, the RR was wired direct to the battery.

After looking at the stock schematic I think I got it, the starter relay has two red wires coming from it, one goes to the battery and the other goes into the harness under the tank, the red going to the harness towards the front is the one I think that goes to the IGN-SW.

I maybe getting the 1000 confused with the 750 but, does your bike have separate Regulator and Rectifier? BassCliff's site has manuals you can download and get wiring diagram.

[btbarb]

I maybe getting the 1000 confused with the 750 but, does your bike have separate Regulator and Rectifier? BassCliff's site has manuals you can download and get wiring diagram.

It originally did, yes. It was replaced at some point with a combined R/R.

[NoBikeMike83]

You just wire the Red R/R(+) to the same place as the original R/R. If you look at your schematic you will see that the relationship of the battery, main fuse, ignition switch and R/R(+) are all as indicated in my simplified diagram.

You should still clean your fuse box and any other connections between the battery and the R/R and follow the simple single point grounding.

1.) Single point ground:

• Battery(-)
• Harness(B/W) ground
• Frame

2.) R/R(-) to SPG

all come together at a single point before running a single wire (short wire less than 1 ft 14 ga))to the R/R(-)

I was also not 100% sure about connecting the positive (Red) r/r output when upgrading the r/r. I'm in the process of diagnosing a no charge issue on my '81 1100e. Based on the color coded wires and how stator was still connected to the non-existent headlight switch loop, Stator and r/r appear to be original/oem Suzuki. My bike does have a fuse panel. The r/r positive connects to the bike harness via a bullet connector (not the battery) which I could only imagine go to my fuse panel main fuse before then going to battery positive. This would make an inline fuse on the positive of a new r/r unnecessary would it not? Seems that most of the time the r/r positive is run right to battery positive with the in line fuse.

[posplayr]

Rather than deal with cleaning the fuse box and other connections in the stock setup(something that may appear tedious and I necessary) someone got the bright idea to just run the r/r straight to the battery. The problem with that is it ignores the basic function of what the r/r battery is doing and so is fundamentally changing the power distribution circuitry in an undesirable way.
If you want to accept the risks attendant with the direct connection method then go that way.

The analysis I provided shows what happens (the results) when you change the connections and I would not recommend it although many people have done it. The approach I have suggested (assuming you have a 5 position fusebox) is to clean what you have and use the revised phase A test to confirm.

If you have a single fuse, then it is probably a single main fuse which can be replaced in place of the original. If someone has a single fuse bike but is pulling apart their harness, then I would suggest integrating a 5 position fuse box.

If you have a separate regulator and regulator, I would suggest going to an integrated SERIES unit like the SH-775 and mimicking as best as possible the standard 5 fuse configuration.

[NoBikeMike83]

Ahh I see. So its more or less a short cut. After testing my r/r as per both the factory service manual and your flowchart within the stator papers, I believe my unit is bad. Ordered an SH-775 from a local Polaris dealer today for $79 bucks. My bike does have a 5 position fuse box, as well an all in one 5 wire regulator/rectifier. I definitely would not feel comfortable connecting the new r/r straight to battery positive. I have no problem taking the little bit of extra time to insure my fuse box connections are all in good shape and run the r/r feed the way Suzuki intended. They said it will probably take a week to get my 775 in anyways. On another note, I know the 775 is physically quite a bit bigger than my original unit... do you know if there is much modification needed to get it to fit in the stock location (under the left side cover, to the right of the fuse panel)?

[NoBikeMike83]

Bike is '78 750E.

I'm wiring a SH775 and have been following the recent discussions on the stock wiring as preferred, see posplayer's diagram below. I'm not sure of the highligted path below for my setup. I have a Dyna-S, I've done the coil relay mod too.

For the higlighted portion below, do I wire to the Dyna red?

How did you go about mounting the 775? Was there much modification involved?

[btbarb]

How did you go about mounting the 775? Was there much modification involved?

For my model, took battery box out, took off old regulator that was stranded there and replaced it with the SH775, it's 2-3 times the size of what was there, but i found mounting holes that lined up.

[NoBikeMike83]

For my model, took battery box out, took off old regulator that was stranded there and replaced it with the SH775, it's 2-3 times the size of what was there, but i found mounting holes that lined up.

Ahh sounds like your setup is quite different from mine. My regulator is mounted to a plate under the left side cover next to my fuse box. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow before work. I''ll figure something out I suppose. I have a feeling the 775 is about that much larger than the stock unit on my bike as well, and there's not much space at the factory location.

[Cassius086]

Mike, I sent you a PM with a couple pics of possible locations for the 775 Hope they are helpful.

[NoBikeMike83]

Mike, I sent you a PM with a couple pics of possible locations for the 775 Hope they are helpful.

Awesome! Thanks a lot Mike! That bracket you made up looks like a great idea. Must stay fairly cool there as well. I got my bike with pods installed so I also have no airbox 😁 I do see slight differences in your fame around the seat area but nothing major. These will come in very handy indeed! 👍