where to get a genuine sh-775 series r/r for a good price??

[GS(X)400]

My local Triumph dealer quoted me a $12 price for the Triumph connector kit.

I would rather not have to cut into a wiring harness for a clean install. So i would prepare to crimp my own ends so i would still need to source the connector parts. Thats at least $40 from jpn(easternbever) plus shipping. But saying that i am thinking about some other EB stuff anyway..

[posplayr]

From gs stator in my signature. This is perhaps an item of interest.


Cheap SH-775 Connector Source

#1 The SERIES Shindengen R/R SH-775 commonly available from Polaris Dealers. Search the GSR site for recent posts on best price and availability. This is most peoples number one choice for an R/R replacement because of low price, easy availability and SERIES performance. It's only down size is a fairly large form factor (same as the MOSFET FH012) made even larger if you use the mating convectors.
Series Regulator Source SH775
SH-775 Vendor/Price List
Cheap SH-775 Connector Source

Lots would work ,but your best choice is none of them! get a SH-775 from a Polaris ATV dealer their part #4012941 . search on the forum for reasons why.

Steve has graciously done the price checking for online ones- if you got a Polaris dealer near you, inquire ,cuz they might be close or willing to bargain.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...&postcount=104

Another Tip on the SH-775 from DeCosse

p.s. I also just found while searching EBay and cross-referencing OEM Parts Fiche that SeaDoo and CanAM also use this same Shindengen SH775 Regulator under their OEM part number 710001103.
Now - the new price is about 2x that of the exacts same Polaris OEM part - even from same common dealer!
But there are a lot of used SeaDoo/CanAm SH775 on Ebay (although still about the same price used as a brand new Polaris-sourced part)

[mmattockx]

I would rather not have to cut into a wiring harness for a clean install.

I'm not sure how you are going to install it without cutting into the harness at some point, but there are a lot of ways to achieve the same thing.


Mark

[GS(X)400]

I'm not sure how you are going to install it without cutting into the harness at some point, but there are a lot of ways to achieve the same thing.

Mark

Well I already had a Honda RR there. Its currently wired into the harness grounded to a grounded block and directly connected to the stator. So am my cutting is done. All i will need to do crimp new ends and replace them.

oh and find a place to mount the darn thing..

[Lorenzo]

mmattockx
cyclepartswarehouse: 572 + 20 shipping to Italy, seems fait to me; otherwise follow duaneage suggestion.

I am planning to run the wires dirextly from the stator to re R/R without intermediate connections.

I might prove wrong, but from the deepness of my unfathomed ignorance (on about everything) I see the time as come to just do it this way and eventually assess the cons later..

If you wanna follow suit we might share experiences.

Ciao

[posplayr]

mmattockx
cyclepartswarehouse: 572 + 20 shipping to Italy, seems fait to me; otherwise follow duaneage suggestion.

I am planning to run the wires dirextly from the stator to re R/R without intermediate connections.

I might prove wrong, but from the deepness of my unfathomed ignorance (on about everything) I see the time as come to just do it this way and eventually assess the cons later..

If you wanna follow suit we might share experiences.

Ciao

Going direct minimizes the voltage drops of dirty connections. When you solder just do it sparingly so you don't wick solder way up into the wires. Some is OK, but you should secure all the wires so that the wires cant flex and break off at the stiff solder joints.

[Lorenzo]

thanks pos

Also me thinks having an intermeidiate connections, maybe (and I stress maybe) was the "price" to pay to third party contractors, for something (the R/R) tey (Suzuki) did not directly manufacture;

contractors had for economical reasons to cater for multiple configurations, so offering a pig tail might have seemed a reasonable prospect, with the likes of Suzuki, Yamaha etc laying their side of copper.

I repeat I might be wrong.

[mmattockx]

Well I already had a Honda RR there. Its currently wired into the harness grounded to a grounded block and directly connected to the stator. So am my cutting is done. All i will need to do crimp new ends and replace them.

oh and find a place to mount the darn thing..

Ah, that makes sense now. Yes, mounting is an issue. I haven't yet seen anything that I like very much that will work on my 1100E.

mmattockx
cyclepartswarehouse: 572 + 20 shipping to Italy, seems fait to me; otherwise follow duaneage suggestion.

That is pretty decent, only $11 shipping. Total was a bit over $82 shipped which works out to ~$92 with exchange... As you can see, it is pretty hard for us to win buying OEM parts from the US these days. I think I will just eat the extra $5 and buy it local.


Mark

[posplayr]

Yes, mounting is an issue. I haven't yet seen anything that I like very much that will work on my 1100E.

The Compufire, is much less trouble to mount, but costs a bit more. My install guide is for an 83 1100ED

[Lorenzo]

Going direct minimizes the voltage drops of dirty connections. When you solder just do it sparingly so you don't wick solder way up into the wires. Some is OK, but you should secure all the wires so that the wires cant flex and break off at the stiff solder joints.

Since at the moment, the GS is my only viable carriage and I would like to minimize the "pit stop" wouldn't you or fellow members have actual pics of what I am going to find inside the generator?

For instance when I remove the cover, the wires will face the inside of the carter, so, does it take a special tool/precautions to pull the stator apart?

[Gregory]

I bought one from a Polaris dealer but they said they were on backorder at Polaris so it took a couple weeks.

[tom203]

Since at the moment, the GS is my only viable carriage and I would like to minimize the "pit stop" wouldn't you or fellow members have actual pics of what I am going to find inside the generator?

For instance when I remove the cover, the wires will face the inside of the carter, so, does it take a special tool/precautions to pull the stator apart?

Three screws hold stator to cover- there's also a metal brace that clamps wires tightly to case so rotor can't rub them.

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