Bought polaris r/r (# 4012941) wire gauge for r/r input/output?

[Guest]

Hi

i recently ordered a polaris r/r (part number 4012941). What gauge wire are you all
using to connect to the connector input/output terminals??


Atm

[garagepunkfan]

12 gauge wire is what i'm using. i'm also substituting Delphi/Packard Metri-Pack 630 series sealed single spade connectors to replace the bullet connectors

[garagepunkfan]

12 gauge wire is what i'm using. i'm also substituting Delphi/Packard Metri-Pack 630 series sealed single spade connectors to replace the bullet connectors

actually, let me clarify this a bit...for the 3 stator wires, i'm using a 3-station Delphi/Packard Metri-Pack 280 series male and female for a disconnect, on 14 gauge wire. these are robust and more than adequate to handle the amps each leg produces. you want the 12 gauge wire on the rectifier output and ground, with a stout spade connector to handle the amps, which is why i chose the Metri-Pack 630 series, not to mention that all of them are sealed, front and back, to keep out water

[posplayr]

actually, let me clarify this a bit...for the 3 stator wires, i'm using a 3-station Delphi/Packard Metri-Pack 280 series male and female for a disconnect, on 14 gauge wire. these are robust and more than adequate to handle the amps each leg produces. you want the 12 gauge wire on the rectifier output and ground, with a stout spade connector to handle the amps, which is why i chose the Metri-Pack 630 series, not to mention that all of them are sealed, front and back, to keep out water

If you keep them at less than 1 foot then 14 ga is fine.


A link to how to do the calculations

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?216224-Solid-State-Power-Box-STANDARD-INSTALLATION&p=1965992#post1965992

[garagepunkfan]

pos,

yep, i'm aware that it might be overkill. however, there are a couple of factors that informed my decision to go with 12 gauge. just some background here, my harness is currently unwrapped on the bench for a complete freshening and conversion to sealed connectors. since my battery will be relocated slightly with a new billet tray designed for a MotoBatt MB10U battery, i ran two long stubbed out leads to replace the T of the red wires inside the original harness. since my total leg length cannot really be determined at this point, and that i consider each leg of the T into the 1 foot equation, i was convinced that i had nothing to lose by using 12 gauge

[posplayr]

pos,

yep, i'm aware that it might be overkill. however, there are a couple of factors that informed my decision to go with 12 gauge. just some background here, my harness is currently unwrapped on the bench for a complete freshening and conversion to sealed connectors. since my battery will be relocated slightly with a new billet tray designed for a MotoBatt MB10U battery, i ran two long stubbed out leads to replace the T of the red wires inside the original harness. since my total leg length cannot really be determined at this point, and that i consider each leg of the T into the 1 foot equation, i was convinced that i had nothing to lose by using 12 gauge

If you are running more than a foot then ok increase the size. If I was opening up the harness I would also rewire things using a relay like the Easter beaver setup and avoid he big voltage drops brought he ignition switch. I would recommend the SSPB but net sure about when another might be.

[Lorenzo]

Me to has acquired an SH755, and while I wait for the Furukawa connectors I am doing a bit of planning;

What do You think of running the generator wires, from the stator to the R/R in one lenght without an intermediate connector?

To remove the notorious right switch loop, do you have to actually cut it, or you just ignore it, once the wires have been run from the generator to the R/R ?

Is the output connector to the battery of the SH755 the leftmost one on the (right) socket, looking at it from the front?

Is the stock fuse block so unreliable, so as to warrant a swap with a blade one? I have read somewhere that, glass fuses give you an hint of the possible cause of it blowing (of course we try and do things in a manner which will opefully avert any failure, but..) whether a short or a surcharge, with the dulled glass being the telltale; mine is in good running order, no rust, no loose contact, so I am undecided...

Thanks

P.S. did not mean to hijack the thread...

[garagepunkfan]

pos,

i have studied your posts closely in the past 3 years. please see my thread about upgrading to the Furakawa, etc. sealed connectors. it sort of became a build thread which i will update soon.


the thread details already having run both an Eastern Beaver headlamp relay kit and their horn relay kit using the Panasonic NAIS 20 relays and integrated them fully into the harness. they are up in the headlight bucket. the harness is sourced from my 82 GS750EZ and has the benefit of eliminating the check panel silliness of the GS1100ED. i built the GS750EZ cluster with the tach and speedo from the 1100ED


i set up the horn trigger wires as a ground-side switching deal and ran an 18 gauge wire back to the fusebox as i'm using a Kawasaki ZX6 box with separate circuits for horn and turn signals.


i have divorced all the big loads from the right switchgear; am setting up a relay for my Dyna 2000 and did your switchgear mod. two orange white wires for the kill switch and just the starter button trigger wire running out (yellow/green)


i ran the 14 gauge orange/red wire directly over to the left switchgear connector since the harness was unwrapped and i was upgrading connectors anyway - there is now one connection only and connects directly with the yellow/white wire. this circuit now only acts as trigger wire running thru the dimmer switch.