New R/R, new stator, no charging

[rlloydl]

To add insult to injury, 2 WheelPros told me today that Polaris back ordered the
new SH 775. They won't have them for two weeks.

[OldVet66]

I've had an old original stator that had turned dark brown/black from heat but was still working at the time fail (one year later) with my Compu-Fire with no damage to the Compu-Fire. You are not going to know if the SH-775 is bad unless you have a good stator to test it with and it looks like the stator might be the problem (or is there a new stator in there?). Probably still working a little but breaking down under load. Change the stator and try it again before you send the SH-775 back. Shendengen has good quality control I'd be surprised if it's the R/R.

[tom203]

As posplayr said, sure sounds like the SH-775 is dead. Any chance you miswired/mixed up the connectors as you were fiddling around ? In attached pic the red wire is the positive feed into harness

image.jpg

Just use a honda shunt style temporarily- easy to find . Good to have backup for future testing- I have one mounted already as cheap insurance!

[rlloydl]

OldVet.
That is where I am at now. Swapped in SH 775 and then through testing
determined the stator was about to go (10 volts per leg at 5k, dark, but not shorted).
new stator now, but still no charging.

Thanks

[rlloydl]

Tom,
I am wiring back in original R/R now.
Also, while I don't think this has anything to do with the
price if butter, I am eliminating inline fuse on R/R positive
going to harness.(got output connector Kit from Eastern Beaver. Already wired for those applications
where user wants to wire R/R output straight to battery). While I am at it, I am going after T connector
a few inches up the harness.

Thanks for ideas.

[posplayr]

Tom,
I am wiring back in original R/R now.
Also, while I don't think this has anything to do with the
price if butter, I am eliminating inline fuse on R/R positive
going to harness.(got output connector Kit from Eastern Beaver. Already wired for those applications
where user wants to wire R/R output straight to battery). While I am at it, I am going after T connector
a few inches up the harness.

Thanks for ideas.

Just so you know, unless you have some really bad wiring, you are not going to see huge differences between the various methods for connecting the R/R. So if it is bad one way, it is going to be bad the rest.

These various options are for reducing the sensitivity to corrosion which can account for a few tenths of voltage 0.5-1.0 volts worst case.

[rlloydl]

Posplayr,
Got it. Connections at the T or in the front harness of the bike will
not fix my current problem.

Thanks for heading off any misunderstanding.

[rlloydl]

As I stated before, my plan is to wire back in the OE R/R.
When I wired in the SH 765, I took all 3 stator leads straight to
the new R/R. As I recall the factory R/R wiring had one of the stator
leads going to the harness (W/G wire). The return came back on the W/R.
As it is now the W/G and W/R are bypassed and I have them connected
to each other for tidiness. So easy enough (check me here), I run one stator lead
to W/G and then connect the returning W/R to the W/R on the OE R/R?
The OE R/R positive stays the same?

Thanks

[Nessism]

Always wire the stator direct to the R/R. The type of R/R doesn't matter, OEM or aftermarket. Bypass the factory harness other than the power output from the R/R.

If you are getting 65 volts AC from the stator that seems low. I'd suspect the stator before the R/R, unless you miswired it and cooked the thing. At any rate, your R/R test should tell the story...

[posplayr]

Always wire the stator direct to the R/R. The type of R/R doesn't matter, OEM or aftermarket. Bypass the factory harness other than the power output from the R/R.

If you are getting 65 volts AC from the stator that seems low. I'd suspect the stator before the R/R, unless you miswired it and cooked the thing. At any rate, your R/R test should tell the story...

65 VAC at 4500 RPM is 72 VAC equivalent at 5K. Not sure why he quoted a measurement at 4500 RPM number, but he did.

[rlloydl]

Hi Nessism and Posplayr,
Yea, those tests were after I just installed a new stator
I purchased from Caltric. I just did a quick test to be sure the newly installed one
was building current. Having owned this bike from new,
I just don't like to rev 5k while sitting still. Still like to rip on it when riding though.
Ok, so I will wire the OEM R/R the same.
Thanks

[rlloydl]

It just occurred to me, that while you know how I am spending my holiday, I hope
you guys are enjoying your holiday!
Thanks!

[posplayr]

Hi Nessism and Posplayr,
Yea, those tests were after I just installed a new stator
I purchased from Caltric. I just did a quick test to be sure the newly installed one
was building current. Having owned this bike from new,
I just don't like to rev 5k while sitting still. Still like to rip on it when riding though.
Ok, so I will wire the OEM R/R the same.
Thanks

The open loop voltage from the stator tests is proportional to RPM. So 10% less RPM puts you 10% less voltage. Unless someone is aware of that the 4.5K number can indicate an issue if interpreted as 5K RPM (see Nessism comment)

Not really sure, why 4.5K RPM is quieter than 5K RPM.......

Kicking back after dinner; Happy Labor day.

[rlloydl]

Ok, thanks for providing insight into his comments.
So a question for my understanding, if a stator is not
outputting optimal voltage at 5k, and is not shorting,
will this harm an R/R?
thanks

[posplayr]

Ok, thanks for providing insight into his comments.
So a question for my understanding, if a stator is not
outputting optimal voltage at 5k, and is not shorting,
will this harm an R/R?
thanks

Under output without shorting is possible. It will generally be less stress than higher voltage. Right now I would put your old r/r back on temporarily as a sanity check that your sh775 is kaput.