New R/R, new stator, no charging

[rlloydl]

Ok, I think I will to end the suspense.

[rlloydl]

Egads, no charging. Had battery on trickle while working.
Voltage, key off was 12.5. Engine running at 5k
shows 12.5...no charging. To splice in old r/r I put new
bullet connector on hot wire in loom going to front and also
soldered new bullet connectors on old R/R wires to connect
stator wires and r/r output.(I previously cut old r/r wires close to r/r when i
removed it).

[rlloydl]

Hi Posplayr

Please clarify step highlighted in RED below. By leaving R/R connected, you mean for me to keep both ends of RR + connected?
In doing so, would it be acceptable to stick meter probe into butt connector where RR+ feeds into hot wire going into loom without
actually disconnecting?

Thanks,

STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP
Connect the black multimeter lead to the battery (+).
Connect the red multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR (+).
Leave the RR connected to the bike.
INCREASE ENGINE SPEED To 5000 RPM
Check the reading on the meter.
more than 0.25 V = Bad connection in the positive lead from RR (+) to battery (+). Check the entire lead (suspect the connectors as well as the
fuse-box and fuses). Good connections are extremely important in this high current lead. Solve the problem and move to STEP #3

[posplayr]

Hi Posplayr

Please clarify step highlighted in RED below. By leaving R/R connected, you mean for me to keep both ends of RR + connected?
In doing so, would it be acceptable to stick meter probe into butt connector where RR+ feeds into hot wire going into loom without
actually disconnecting?

Yes, you should be testing as if the bike is ready to go on the road(r/r fully connected). The voltage drop between those two points means there is resistance.