Bad kill switch

[JayWB]

You started with the bike firing only on cylinders 1 and 4, until you moved the coil and now only 2 and 3 fire.

This indicates your signal generator and igniter are fine. It's your coil and/or plug wires that aren't working.

[trucker]

You started with the bike firing only on cylinders 1 and 4, until you moved the coil and now only 2 and 3 fire.

This indicates your signal generator and igniter are fine. It's your coil and/or plug wires that aren't working.

That right 1 and 4 worked I then swapped coils and then 2 and 3 worked. Now here is the deal with that I have 4 coils 2 from a parts bike the other 2 never gave me spark on 2 and 3 cylinder either. I did the multimeter test on all four and if I did them right they all 4 checked in bad lol makes no sense right cause one obviously works. The way I did it was put the red and black lead on the 2 wires from coil all 4 checked in at like 5.0 I then switched it to 2K on meter took one lead and put it in plug boot and no reading from any of them Wich i was looking for 10,000 plus reading.

[tom203]

Test the secondary winding of ignition coils by removing plug caps from spark plug wires, then stick your meter probes into those plug wires. With meter on 20 k range, you should see about 12 Kohms (12000 ohms). Plug caps can fool you due to corrosion. The chances of having 4 bad ignition coils is nil.

[trucker]

I think I tried that to but I will try again cause I don't remember but I thought have 4 bad ones was out of the ordinary

[trucker]

Test the secondary winding of ignition coils by removing plug caps from spark plug wires, then stick your meter probes into those plug wires. With meter on 20 k range, you should see about 12 Kohms (12000 ohms). Plug caps can fool you due to corrosion. The chances of having 4 bad ignition coils is nil.

Ha Tom I see you live in Maine I live right in Biddeford Maine myself

[trucker]

Hello all I am still at lost here I checked the coils again with the caps off with still no reading in the ten thousand plus range and with a different ohm meter so Yet again if I did it right all 4 coils are junk but yet one fires not sure if I should buy new coils or the igniter or both or maybe check something else
thanks again Mike

[tom203]

Pick one of your 4 coils, remove plug caps and snip off 1/4 inch from each plug wire. Using your innova meter on 20k ohm setting, stick meter probes into these newly snipped plug wires- you should see about 12 on display meaning 12000 ohms.

biddeford ? Bunch of suzuki owners with these old critters in southern Maine

[JTGS850GL]

OK, let's take a step back and verify what is happening. You don't have 4 bad coils since you do have fire on two plugs.

The original problem was that you had spark on 1&4 but not 2&3. You then swapped the coils and lost 1&4 and got 2&3 to fire. When you say you swapped coils, explain exactly what you did and how.

You did verify the voltage at the coils Orange/White wire with the ignition on. At first it was very low voltage and then you say the voltage was closer to 11 volts. What is it at each coil with the ignition on?

You say you checked the signal generator but again How? What did you measure?

Did you verify the igniter in diode mode? How?

Again, as much detail would be of great assistance here since there are some assumptions that you're doing the above correctly but obviously not since the problem has not been isolated.

[trucker]

Ok so here is what I just went out and redid I swapped coils and got spark from both coils using the 1 and 4 wires but no spark in the 2 and 3 Wich tells me the coils are good.
I yet again re tested the coils by taking the red probe and connecting to the orange wire and black to the black wire and I got a reading of 5.0 I then switched the meter to the 20K and took the balck probe in put in the boot got no reading in both coils.

then onto the igniter I tested it with the 20 dollar meter and got no reading but checked it with 6 dollar meter and got a reading this time I put it on diodes and put the 3 and 4 plugs grounded on the block then i put the red probe on the blue wire and black on the green wire and got a spark from plug 4 when I took the black probe out I did not get a spark from plug 3 so I guess I have a bad igniter

[JTGS850GL]

Either a bad igniter or a bad connection. If it's a connection problem then it's either the line from the igniter to the coil or the +12V line going to the 2&3 coil. Does look like it's pointing toward an igniter related problem. Just to rule out a connection problem I'd verify the 12V at the 2&3 coil. If the voltage there is close to battery voltage with the ignition on then you should be OK there. The only other connection issue could be one of the two connectors that goes between the igniter and the coil. If all that checks out, then I'd go ahead and start looking for a replacement igniter.

[trucker]

thanks again so what I have done before was I tried to bypass the whole wire harness by running a strait wire from the igniter to the coil and I got no spark from it. but what I will do again is check the 12 v to the coil again before it was really low and I will also try to clean all the connecters which is something I have not done ye.t so dumb question which one is the 12v wire I assume it is the orange wire

[JTGS850GL]

Correct. The O/W wire should be the 12V supply to the coil and the ignition.

[trucker]

Ok cool so tomorrow I will redo the test and clean my wires hopefully I can get to the bottom of this lol

[Joe Guilbeau]

Here is an image of the Start/Run switch.

20141101_195014.jpg

As you can see, the "Run" rocker switch connects the two contacts inside the black rocker switch housing, that connects the 12Vdc supply to the 2nd orange wire to the black housing. One orange wire delivers 12Vdc to the rocker run switch, you engage the rocker switch and it slides a metallic contact so the the 12Vdc supply (Orange/Wht) now can go to the "Start" contact. When you push the start contact the round contact sends 12 Vdc back down that black harness wire to supply both coils with 12Vdc.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Here is the other side of the contacts inside of the "Run/Start" switch.

20141101_195033.jpg

Your "Start" button connects the center conductor to the outer conductor on the round contact to the extreme right side of the image.