Bad kill switch

[trucker]

I don't think i quite understand were you mean to check it so I should check the orange and white wire that comes out of the coil is that what you mean

[JTGS850GL]

I don't think i quite understand were you mean to check it so I should check the orange and white wire that comes out of the coil is that what you mean

Yes. You want to make sure you have good voltage at the 12V line. The other wires are switched to ground to fire the coil. No switch, no fire. No 12V no fire. It's really pretty simple.

[trucker]

Ok I tested both from the 2 coil wires they are both 8.6 to 9.0 and when I hit he start button they drop to 7.0 to 7.4

[JTGS850GL]

That's very very low. What do you measure across the battery with the ignition on? Either your battery is close to dead or you have a lot of voltage drop between the 12V source and the coils.

[trucker]

I did not check the volts with the ignition on today but if I remember correctly it was like 11 something but I will double check it tomorrow I want to thank you for your help

[JTGS850GL]

Don't thank me until we have you back up and running.

11 something is still low. Do you have a battery charger to get that battery back up to a good charge? If so I'd put the battery on charge over night.

[60ratrod]

i would also download the service manual if you haven't already. i had the same problem with my 81 650g, and i found it by doing the ignitor test in the FSM. basically you take out spark plugs 1 & 2 and put them back in the plug boots and lay them on the head so they will ground out and spark. they you connect your mulimeter black lead to either the blue or green lead(i can't remember which one right now), and with the meter on the continuity setting, connect the red lead to the other wire in the connector. when you connect, #1 should spark, and when you disconnect, #2 should spark. if it's bad, then only one will spark. but yes, like jtgs850gl pointed out, you are not getting anywhere near what you should be getting to the coils, even if the battery is somewhere around 11vdc. you should be getting that at the O/W wires on the coils. one thing that you may have to do is the relay mod for the coils. i had to do that with my 81 kz1000 because i was also having the same issue as you are having with not getting the battery level voltage to the coils. i was experiencing a 3vdc drop in volts. but, before you hack and slash up your harness, clean every single connector and connection you can find because corrosion is a nasty beast and will wreak havok on your electrical system

[trucker]

so my battey with the ignition on was at 12.6 not 11 but I am going to try andt test the igniter here soon

[trucker]

Hello again so if I checked the igniter right, I put the 3 and 4 plug grounded to the heads and put the ignition key on I then disconnected the 2 wires from the signal generator to the igniter put ohm meter on ohm setting, I then put the red lead on the blue wire and black on the green wire while connecting the black to the green plug 4 was supposed to fire it did not while disconnecting the black from green it was suppose to fire plug 3 it did not now I tried this on the plug to igniter and the generator and I got nothing

[JTGS850GL]

For that procedure to work, you need to put the meter on diode or continuity mode. Regular ohms scale does not provide enough current to fire the igniter with most DVMs.

[trucker]

not sure how to use an ohm meter here is my ohm meter what do I put it on http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...4528214663.jpg

[JTGS850GL]

Look at the bottom of the ohms range where it says 200 near the 6 O-Clock position. One click counter clockwise, there's a symbol of a diode (triangle arrow pointing to a line). That's diode mode. It provides enough voltage and current to forward bias a diode and should provide you with what's needed to fire the igniter. The red lead is positive and the black lead is negative. If it doesn't work, then replace the meter with a 1.5V battery and do the procedure using that with positive=red and negative=black.

[trucker]

Look at the bottom of the ohms range where it says 200 near the 6 O-Clock position. One click counter clockwise, there's a symbol of a diode (triangle arrow pointing to a line). That's diode mode. It provides enough voltage and current to forward bias a diode and should provide you with what's needed to fire the igniter. The red lead is positive and the black lead is negative. If it doesn't work, then replace the meter with a 1.5V battery and do the procedure using that with positive=red and negative=black.

Ok thanks I will try that again first thing in the morning

[trucker]

So I did the test again and I got nothing so I guess it is time to buy a new igniter

[trucker]

so I found a couple of igniter but what is the difference I have the one that looks like mine it is the 60 dollar one but can I just get the 30 dollar one wich does not look like mine but listed for my bike http://www.ebay.com/itm/151431071763...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
30 dollar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/221573477781...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT