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3rd Fuse down keeps blowing when turning bike on

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    3rd Fuse down keeps blowing when turning bike on

    Hey guys, I have a 1980 gs 1000 that keeps blowing the 3rd 10 amp fuse down when I turn the bike on. Haven't really checked all of my wires except the front by the headlights which when I took apart were fine. Put everything back together and when turning on nothing blew But the starter button had no effect. Replaced all fuses and now its back to blowing the same fuse. I'm so lost please help. My bike was fine before I decided to put 1" cafe clubman bars on. Any Ideas?

    #2
    Power runs from battery up thru main fuse and on to key switch . When key is "on", power feeds those 3 or 4 other fuses. Is the blowing fuse the ignition one? If so the suspect the kill switch area, especially since you changed bars (wiring might be grounding out on bar)
    head to Basscliff's and get a colored wiring diagram that's appropriate for your bike.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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      #3
      Thanks Tom, you was absolutely right. When I changed bars a wire inside the kill switch box came loose. I went to the parts store and grabbed a disconnect switch that you can flip. Only thing now is that it looks like Im not getting a spark. She turns and turns but not even a puff.

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        #4
        The kill switch has to power both the starter button and the ignition circuit or it's a no go.
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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          #5
          Makes sense. The switch I bought is called a 2 position on-off switch interruptor(15amp). The original switch had a yellow wore with green tracer going somewhere along with 2 seperate orange wires with white tracers. How I have it now is the yellow w green tracer on onside of switch and one orange wire w white tracer on the other connector while the 2nd orange w white is not connected to anything. should I connect both oranges together or an orange to yellow?

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            #6
            Of the two orange wires, one might have a red band (heat shrink) around it. That will be the wire that is HOT when the key is ON.

            The other orange wire is switched by the "kill" switch and powers the coils and ignitor. The yellow wire is the one that comes from the starter button. There is no one switch that will take the place of your two switches ("kill" and starter). If you combine any two of those three wires on one side of the switch, you will not be happy with the results. Just fork over the cash and get a new switch assembly.

            .
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