Honda RR kits available again

[posplayr]

anyone know why my headlights still turn off and on after connecting the 3 wires from the stator directly to the new RR? I figure its a kill switch thats in the switch itself.

You headlamp runs on DC not AC. The light switch is a parallel switch for both.

[2BRacing]

Here is what I've tried regarding adding grounds:
Ive got the green wire (from the upgraded RR) heading to the negative battery post. I ran a ground wire from the bolt that holds the rear brake reservoir on the frame, to the bolt that holds the starter relay on that side panel. Then another from that same starter relay bolt to the negative post on the battery.

Theres a black wire that was connected to the top bolt of the RR on that side panel. I connected that to the negative post on the battery.

I did all this in steps, checking voltage as I went and the bike seems to sit at a 17v when running. Non-running sits normal, only when its running does the battery read 17v.

I am not an electrical fundi, but 17V is too high in my opinion. Exactly which "upgraded R/R" did you fit? If it is a 6-wire Honda unit from Duaneage, do you have the black "sense" wire from the R/R connected to a switched 12V power source (usually the rear brake light switch)?

The 17V output could also be the reason why your headlight bulb is "unhappy" and maybe signaling it's intention to quit by turning off and on.

[uk gs nut]

Cafe rob, the way I had my Shindengen SH232-12 connected was 3 yellows to stator direct green to earth red to fuse live and black is a 12v sense wire, so it needs to be to an ignition live like stop lamp switch etc. So it looks like it's your black wire giving you the overvoltage issue, best to get it sorted or you will boil your battery or worse !. I opted for an SH775.

[duaneage]

There is a kill head light option on older bike. My 81 has a headlight switch. It has two poles, one for the headlight and the other for that third leg. If you went direct then all the switch does I'd control the headlight

[Caferob]

So I asked Duane, yes it is his RR kit I bought, and he stated same as you guys, the on/off switch isn't controlled by the 3 yellow wires. All wires were hooked up via Duanes and the OEM wiring diagram. Brake sensor switch is hooked up and his kit came with everything needed. Super easy to hook up! Bike charges normal now, 14-15 when running. mainly mid 14s i believe.

[drivera84]

hi guys,

I bought this same RR not knowing my bike has two part regulator and rectifyer as separete units.

I want to do the modification but I dont know how.

I have a 1978 gs750c. I cant find a fuse box on it.

please help, and if you can be super specific. I dont really know what I am doing.

thanks

[tom203]

Look harder, your bike will have a fuse box. But anyways, you don't need to find fusebox to do the r/r upgrade. Find the three stator wires coming out if starter motor cover - they will run to the rectifier box which will then connect to the regulator box. You will be replacing both those boxes with the r/r supplied by duaneage. The three stator wires will go straight to duane's box. Go here and read this link regarding connections from r/r to stator

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/r-r_replacement.pdf

[hannibal]

I don't think your bike has a fuse box. The 77 model doesn't. There's a single in line glass fuse.