Testing Dyna-S

[Guest]

My GS1100 motor is out of the sidecar (which means I have no easy access to a coil but theoretically I should be able to test for voltage when the pickup triggers). I have installed a brand new Dyna-S ignition and want to statically set the timing.

Instead of a 12v test light, I'm using a multimeter set to 50v DC.

The directions say connect a 12v test light from the junction of the white coil wires to ground. So, I connected the red wire to a battery, connected the battery ground to the motor, and connected the meter between the white wire and ground. I then rotated the motor until the magnet was pointed at the pickup.

Nada, nothing, zip, zilcho. I tested the black and got the same result.

I tried putting the magnet next to the opposite pickup - same.

What am I doing wrong?

Ken

[Grimly]

Probably the meter is too high impedence.
Just use a bulb, or a ~ 10 ohm resistor and put the meter across that.

[posplayr]

In principle there is nothing wrong with using aq volt meter on a voltmeter setting as long as you can measurer 12V DC.
Since you got "nada" I would say something is screwed up.
You can't really get zero volts from the white wire unless it is a dead short to ground which means the Dyna is toast. The voltage should range from about 0.7 volts to +12V (i.e. battery).

I would do the following:

1. test the meter using the battery.
2. Verify there is +12V on the O/W at the coil
3. Verify that there is +12V on the Dyna S (not the Dyna has to be grounded to the engine to operate)
4. Check that the White and Y/B should cycle between the aforementioned voltages.
5. Check that the coil should spark when the white goes from 0.7 to 12V.

[Kyler]

In principle there is nothing wrong with using aq volt meter on a voltmeter setting as long as you can measurer 12V DC.
Since you got "nada" I would say something is screwed up.
You can't really get zero volts from the white wire unless it is a dead short to ground which means the Dyna is toast. The voltage should range from about 0.7 volts to +12V (i.e. battery).

I would do the following:

1. test the meter using the battery.
2. Verify there is +12V on the O/W at the coil
3. Verify that there is +12V on the Dyna S (not the Dyna has to be grounded to the engine to operate)
4. Check that the White and Y/B should cycle between the aforementioned voltages.
5. Check that the coil should spark when the white goes from 0.7 to 12V.

As stated above, the motor is out of the sidecar. I do not have a coil connected.

[posplayr]

As stated above, the motor is out of the sidecar. I do not have a coil connected.

I guess you are on your own to design an ignition simulator for the Dyna-S

[trippivot]

easiest way to do this and not risk hurting the igniter - is to remove a coil from the frame and hook it up temporarily. the S unit controls the ground on the primary side (small wires)to collapse the field in the secondary part of the coil (large wires)- it does not send a positive signal.

so maybe set your meter to ohms instead of DC - and look for infinity or open line from white / black to ground -- I'm scared to hurt my dyna stuff testing so I put the system together and watch for a spark.

[gs11ezrydr]

http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...s/DynaSTSG.pdf This is the Dyna S testing manual from Dynatek themselves Hope it helps.

[Kyler]

easiest way to do this and not risk hurting the igniter - is to remove a coil from the frame and hook it up temporarily. the S unit controls the ground on the primary side (small wires)to collapse the field in the secondary part of the coil (large wires)- it does not send a positive signal.

I called Dynatek and spoke with the technical folks. Short answer, there is no way to do a static timing without connecting a coil.

The Dyna 2000 has a built-in static timing LED.

So, time to pull a coil from the sidecar and make a crude ignition system on the motor stand.

[trippivot]

sorry kyler I hate extra work also. --

[GregT]

Ha - i've got the same problem. two customers who've bought various dynas off ebay - most incomplete...

i've got to put together a test rig to work out whether any of it is worth keeping.

I'm thinking a piece of MDF with a pivot pin for the trigger to be turned manually on, a battery and a twin lead coil as spark will be from one lead to the other so I'd only need to earth the coil center laminations...

[Kyler]

Ha - i've got the same problem. two customers who've bought various dynas off ebay - most incomplete...

i've got to put together a test rig to work out whether any of it is worth keeping.

I'm thinking a piece of MDF with a pivot pin for the trigger to be turned manually on, a battery and a twin lead coil as spark will be from one lead to the other so I'd only need to earth the coil center laminations...

thankfully with wiring is super-simple. I've decided to go ahead and drop the motor in the frame. The hack is a lefty so with no body on it is easy to get to the ignition.

[posplayr]

This thread demonstrates a simple guideline in engineering. "Make sure that the test setup does not get more complicated than the system integration!"

[GregT]

This thread demonstrates a simple guideline in engineering. "Make sure that the test setup does not get more complicated than the system integration!"

Oh quite...but i'm old and tired and want a test rig somewhat lighter than a motor....

And the way these guys here are buying up used Dynas, I'm going to be using it for a few years yet.

[posplayr]

Oh quite...but i'm old and tired and want a test rig somewhat lighter than a motor....

And the way these guys here are buying up used Dynas, I'm going to be using it for a few years yet.

Complexity is in the eye of the beholder. You can make a Dyna-S test set with a resistor, VOM and a couple of alligator clip wires.