Idiot light for battery

[trevor]

Hi guys,
My battery warning light is on because my bike has a little piece on the end a wire that is supposed to go in one of the battery cells to read acid level. But the new battery's holes aren't big enough to take it. So now my light is on. Can someone please tell me how I can disconnect the wire so the light goes out?
I did unplug it at the connector but of course the light stayed on.
I know this is probably a low tech question but as you guys know...I'm very low tech.

[hampshirehog]

You could pop the bulb out Trevor. That's what I did.

[dorkburger]

If I recall reading correctly, cutting the end off of the wire end and connecting it to a 12v source will turn it off. Definitely wait for confirmation from someone else though.....or ditch the bulb.....or disregard the light as I do. I suspect thats not your style though.

[trevor]

If I recall reading correctly, cutting the end off of the wire end and connecting it to a 12v source will turn it off. Definitely wait for confirmation from someone else though.....or ditch the bulb.....or disregard the light as I do. I suspect thats not your style though.

Haha... Am I that predictable?? I has some idiot lights stuck on on the 83 1100 last year on a trip, I used black tape to fix them for the trip. Lol

[dorkburger]

Peredictable in the way that you seem to meticulously keep after your cycles...NOT a bad trait.

[bonanzadave]

connecting it to a 12v source will turn it off.

Confirmed. Thats how I did it.

[Joe Guilbeau]

The GS1100E (80-83) Technical Service Manual specifies that a Voltmeter set to DC Volts should read 1.5Vdc - 2.0Vdc when the NEGATIVE LEAD of the Voltmeter is is placed on the POSITIVE Battery Terminal and the POSITIVE LEAD of the Voltmeter is connected to the Electrolyte Lead.

Battery Electrolyte Lead Test.jpg

So, if you do not read the 1.5-2.0Vdc that means that the transducer is no longer working properly.

You might try to ground the wire (momentary) connected to the transducer to see if that either makes the lamp brighter or distinguishes the lamp.

[blowerbike]

remove/unplug the resistor.
12 volt source and be done.

[trevor]

Thanks guys, I will remove/ unplug and 12 volt the source. So how do I do that? Lol

[Steve]

Connect a jumper to that wire and connect it to one of the switched fuses in the fuse box. Personally, I would select the SIGNALS fuse.

You can rig a wire to a connector that fits the stock connector or cut the wire and simply extend it to the fuse box, whichever you prefer.

.

[Chris G]

Are you able to mod the Connector, reduce its size enough to fit the new battery, it's a cool feature on your bike, be nice to keep it functional.

[Chuck78]

He probably upgraded to a gel cell or Lithium-Iron-Phosphate battery (LiFePO4), which does not use liquid acid, therefore has no caps to remove to fill/check acid levels.

[trevor]

Believe it or not I didn't upgrade...being cheap I guess. But the new battery's holes are smaller. Maybe I can mod the connector by shaving it a bit. Like you say Chris G it is a cool feature that is original and good to keep functional. As always, thanks for the help guy.

[D Icard]

I ran into a similar problem on my '82 1100E. The new battery had "push in caps' that wouldn't accept the "screw in sensor". I carefully tapped the hole to recieve the sensor.
You may be able to enlarge the hole in the battery with a drill bit (or some other reaming-type tool).

[blowerbike]

vented lead acid batteries are soooooo evil and do soooooo much damage.
i won't even use one on a riding mower