1980 GS1000ST handlebars won't unlock

[Guest]

Title says it. Just got done replacing my batter an cleaning up my new bike. And charged the battery up and now it won't unlock to the start position. Anyone have ideas on what it might be?

[seanarthurmachado]

To be correct and specific: are we speaking about the handlebars being in the locked position, with key set to "lock" and you cannot set the key to "Unlock" position to be able to free up the bars ?

If so, I had the same issue (my ignition was the original one from 1979, if set to lock or park it would get jammed)
some have stated to push/pull on the bars while twisting the key.

On mine I had to do a push/pull/twist on the key to get it back to the on/off positions, and just replaced the ignition and key with an aftermarket unit for $20.00 or so.

[natesGS1000]

Yup, that's it right there. Was trying that earlier. So just twist the bars or move the bike too? And can you point me towards an after market ignition and how to set one up?

[natesGS1000]

Tried that, doesn't work sadly...

[tom203]

Are handlebars locked to right ? Can you see the pin that pushes out of switch and blocks movement? If so, try prying pin up as you fiddle with key.

[natesGS1000]

Will try in morning. Too damn tired. But after 1 ride, best 800$ I spent hahaha. I love the bike

[chuck hahn]

You got a REAL Cooley for $800.00???? Pics please. What are the 3 first 2 digits of the VIN after the GS 1000- ??

Anyway, if its a Cooley you need to remove the fairing and the dash to get to the lock pin at the bottom of the ignition. Squirt some penetrating oil on the pin and start working the key while you pry against the pin trying to force it back in. To remove the ignition from the top bridege youll see two allen head bolts holding it on.

[Kiwi Canuck]

This is a common problem and 90 percent of the time a new key will correct the issue.
Unless your bike has been stored for 20 years and the cylinder is ceased that's a different issue, but it sounds like you have ridden the bike and then you locked the steering lock, is that correct?

What happens is the key gets worn as does the lock cylinder over time, the housing of the lock cylinder has gateways for the wafers to lock into, the gateway that allows the key to turn from "OFF" to "ON" get worn, but the one from "LOCK" to "OFF" is usually not, so the key will easily turn it to lock, but because the key is worn it will not allow it to return to the "OFF" position.

Get a new key cut to the code on the helmet lock on the right side of the bike, check it's the same code as the fuel cap and you should be good to go.

A good locksmith shop should be able to provide a key to code, if you have an original key with the black plastic head it will have a code stamped on it as well.

Nate, BTW if you did buy a 1980 GS1000ST for $800 you officially SUCK

David.

Edit, if you want to try using a pair of pliers on the key and carefully apply pressure as you wiggle the key it may work, also most importantly make sure the steering is freely moving back and forth, if you put it on the center stand it's usually better.
You want to make sure the locking bolt is not under pressure as that will make it very difficult to turn the ignition, just like in a car.

[natesGS1000]

Okay so my grandfather got it unlocked while I was sleeping. Big surprise to me and now when I have the key to the on position, I have no lights on the dash.... and yes I did get the bike for $800 with a dead battery haha

[natesGS1000]

Haha I wish. Does wd40 ruin ignitions?

[JTGS850GL]

WD40 is not good for electrical use.

[natesGS1000]

Well ****. Found out my new battery is backwards from the old one. Connections were backwards. Have light and crank now. And the wd40 now has the handlebars unlocked

[JTGS850GL]

Might need to make sure the R/R, igniter and the turn signals still work. Reversed polarity is not good on some electronics.

If he sprayed WD40 into the lock it's probably OK. Shouldn't effect the contacts.

[natesGS1000]

New to motorcycles. What do the first two mean

[JTGS850GL]

R/R= Rectifier/Regulator. It's used to provide DC power to the electricals and charge the battery. Bad=no charge voltage.

Igniter= Is used to sense the input from the signal generator (ignition timing sensors) and drive the ignition coils. Bad=No start.