No power!!! Nothing lights up after a POP

[Guest]

Hello all !!

This is my first GS !!

Its a 1983 GS650 I got for free has 88xxxkms.

I brought it home and cleaned the carbs all the dash light light up and tried starting no go....but thats for a forum post.

So after connecting a fresh battery to it i tried firing it up a few times then nothing. I tried one more time, and thats when it went POP after that it didnt start power up or anything. After a week of checking the wiring I found nothing cleaned up some wiring leading to the fuse box but still nothing. I've cleaned up and checked the fuses and changed them still nothing. Im just wondering if there are any suggestions?? I can bypass the starter and hear the motor crank, obviously it wont start because the cdi or any of the other electrical isnt getting power.

Thanks for the help in advance

[Jedz123]

Welcome aboard bud:
So all Suzuki GS's are very susceptible to stator, R&R and battery issues.
I recommend you read this link and become well versed in this information.
May seem long winded but well worth the time if you truly want to get you GS on the road.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?152769-GS-Charging-System-Health&p=1138531#post1138531

Also the search is key. I recommended spending at least an hour reading up and searching the forum. Likely this issue has occurred and it's been documented and fixed.

I've come into possession of 12 GS's and I've encountered at least 4 that have had non functional electrical and charging systems at some point. So Here's my take.

I'm guessing your Rectifier is toast and is drawing power off the battery when the bike is off (or not running to create a charging current). You need to diagnose each component; Stator, the R&R (regulator & rectifier) and battery to see where the issue is coming from.

I have fixed all my GS once diagnosing the issue was electric BY;

1. Replacing the original Stator with a brand new unit,
2. Upgrading or replacing the R&R unit with a 5 wired R&R off a fuel injected Suzuki GSX-R 600
3. Putting a brand new battery in.

I just replaced the R&R, Stator and battery on my GR650 (near similar electrics of any GS) for it too was having electrical issues.

I had a GS550 (4 cylinder, not too dissimilar to yours) do a similar thing while running. I heard a pop and the bike died completely. The Regulator (R&R) went and the bike had a surge in voltage and popped every light that was on. Fuses went the whole nine... I had to replace parts of the harness, the ignition system(Dyna-S), and then replaced every charging component. Bike ran great with everything in good working order.

I don't think your failure is as catastrophic as mine was for my GS550. I was on the interstate in high revs when the bike blew it's regulator. Your bike is losing charge and shorting out when off... I'm guessing your R&R is the culprit.

To measure is to know... Do your measurements, buy a digital volt meter, read the link I showed you and you'll have all the tools you need to self diagnose and fix the problem!

Good luck and Welcome to GSR!!!

[tom203]

Sounds like you like electrical stuff, so go here and print out a wiring diagram

https://sites.google.com/a/dslextreme.com/cbsaunders/images/1982GS650GLZ-1983GS650GLD.Jpg?attredirects=0

has this free bike sat idle for long? Exposed to harsh climate?

[Murphy Chow]

The bike is in Vancouver BC its a wet mild climate here like Seattle Im sure the bike was outside for an extended amount of time probably for about a year. So I have an update on the bike, I took the fuse box out again and scrubbed and cleaned out all the connections again and scrubbed out all the wires and the brass plates that hold the fuses with a steel brush removed all the wires from the connector. I got it to start using the start button, only the front head light turns on, no horn or dash lights or any other indicators light up. It still wont fire up with a clean carb and new gaskets on the intake boots but thats for another forum section.

[phatts27]

Check your relays. I had a similar situation happen on my xs11. I let the bike run for a few minutes, heard a hiss, then a pop. What happened was water pooled up in one of my relays which wasn't too much of a problem. With the bike running and electricity being passed through it, the water boiled and steam burst the relay apart. The bike did nothing when I hit the starter button an the lights didn't work.

I was able to dry the relay out and reassemble it and all was well. Hope your problem Is as obvious as mine was.

Ed

[Redman]

Check your relays. I had a similar situation happen on my xs11. ....

Phatts, Ah... only relay on a GS, related to the starter and ignition is the starter solenoid (and that not often referred to as a "relay").





MC,

Now that you have cleaned up the fuse block, you have more working than before... so maybe more clean up might improve things even further.

But biggest comment I have is this:
Apparently You are trying to trouble shoot an electrical problem with your eyeballs, which is not a very effective method.
To trouble shoot an electrical problem, a much better tool is a volt meter or even a test lamp/probe. COuld easily then determine if the fuse block is passing power on the appropriate circuits.

Get a volt meter.
Get a schematic (or we can tell you what color wire is say, the ignition circuit or the instrument light circuit).

Tell us more.
Lots of folks here willing to help.

.

[JTGS850GL]

Second the getting a volt meter. No way to effectively trouble shoot this without one. In the absence of a meter you're only able to see visible damage. Could very well be an issue that not visible. Until you get one the only areas that I would say need a particularly close inspection is ANY connector coming off the main harness in in the headlight bucket. Replace all the fuses with new fuses. When looking at the connectors, look for any signs of melted plastic or discolorations specific to an area. My guess is you either have a broken fuse or a high resistance connector. You also want to make sure your ground wires (B/W) are secure and have a clean contact.

[Murphy Chow]

I must of forgotten to mention Ive been using a volt a meter the whole time measuring continuity and voltage when I have the battery connected. I would never just eyeball electrical connections....lol... it cranks over but im not getting much of a spark if any the dash lights are still not working neither are signals. Ive even taken out the wires out of the plastic connector. I just noticed the fuses in the bike are all the same 32V 20Amp the previous owner must of just bought all the same fuses and stuck them in there. After I get it going I was thinking of doing the GM HEI conversion for my coils and ignitors but its a little different than my Honda CB. Ive searched on the forum seems there was talk of a schematic but the link posted is not working...

[Redman]

Good that you have meter.

ANoter link to some schematics

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs650wiring.html

I suspect not much differenece from an 82 to an 83
(look at 650GZ)

For the "no instrument lights" Check if getting power from the fuse block (since it was suspect b efore) on the "signal" circuit.

FOr the "weak spark" check the voltage on the "ignition" circuit from the fuse block AND at the coils.

.
>>later note
Link I provided is for 650G.

You haven't said if you have 650G or 650GL (both shaft, but not much difference for schematic)... or if have 650E (chain drive).

[tom203]

You need to study wiring diagram to see the convoluted path that current has to flow to reach its destination. Don't waste your money buying stuff, till you know what's broken. The ignition system on shaft 650 is reliable- probably only vulnerable to over voltage situation.

[Redman]

Ignition Fuse powers the Org/Wht circuit.
So for your "weak spark" check voltage of the Org/Wht wire comming out of the fuse block.
And check voltage at the Org/Wht wire at each coil.

Signal fuse powers the Org/Grn circuit.
So, for your "no other lights" check that the fuse block is passing power to the Org/Grn wire.

Main fuse should be 15amp.
Head, and Ignition and Signal should be 10 amp.
Do change them to that... for several reasons.

The "powrer sourse" or sometimes called "aux" (that powers that extra terminal right tere on the fuse block) that can be 5 or 10 depending on what you want to connect to that terminal there on bottom of the fuse block.

Go to an auto parts store that may have a laarger selction than say a big hardware store. Those multi/misc packs dont have enough of what you need and many of what you dont need. Get 15 amps and 10 amps.

.