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Stator test on GS1100E
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Stator test on GS1100E
Ok, battery AGM only two years old. Last week charged battery overnight on trickle charger, I measured 12.8 V before I went for ride. Short ride, park bike for a week. I went to garage today battery dead. Bike has new regulator from Duane. Stator passes all passive resistance checks. I got in started and checked for ac output of three stator legs...I get 0 ac volts...I know your supposed to check with fully checked battery, but I checked anyway. Even with low dc battery voltage I should see something on stator output ? Or do I just have shot battery ? Or that wiring schematic where one wire is connected to back brake circuit I read where one guy said it was draining his battery....dont know how that would happen when ingition is turned off. Thanks.Tags: None
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"......I got in started and checked for ac output of three stator legs...I get 0 ac volts.."
Since you said stator passes the passive resistance tests..... Zero reading makes me suspicious
Make sure you got your meter on correct position for AC - test on house outlet and look for about 125 volts. Also make sure the the r/r is disconnected from stator for the AC test phase.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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When you are checking the stator output, that is ALL you are checking. The condition of the battery has nothing to do with it, as long as there is enough to keep the bike running for the tests.
As Tom mentioned, make sure the meter is set to AC volts and that the stator wires are not connected to the R/R. You are checking ONLY the output of the stator. Mentally label the wires A, B and C. You will be checking voltage from A to B, then A to C, then B to C. It does not matter which wire gets which label, it does not matter which color meter lead you put on which wire. Have the engine running real close to 5000 RPM for the reading.
If you find that your stator is shot, I have one for you.
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What Steve said. Check stator with wires disconnected from R/R. Battery has noting to do with it. Only reason bike is running fore this test is a means of spinning the rotor.
And what Steve said. Check stator wires voltage with wires disconnected from the R/R. THis is sometimes called the "no load test" or the "open circuit test". Make sure meter is on "AC". SHould be about 70VAC, 70VAC & 70VAC at mid RPMS (measured between two of the wires, not wire to ground).
Good that you are checking the stator output...but, your first concern was about if battery was okay.
First I would check the entire charging system, check battery voltage with engine running at mid RPMs to see if the entire charging system is working well (low-mid 14 or upper 13 volts).
If charging system is working well, and still having problems with battery, then can suspect the battery.
If entire charging system not working well, then need to attend to that, so then check individual parts of the charging systems (stator, connection, R/R).Last edited by Redman; 03-23-2015, 12:23 PM.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
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AGM batteries will go bad if they are very low on charge and freeze over winter. I had one that showed a good charge on my battery tender after a spring charge that continued to degrade very fast until it wouldn't charge at all.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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