Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
only 1 coil working
Collapse
X
-
Agreed with the above and I'll be one of those to say that a couple of hours didn't truly clean them out - there are small passages you can't see that will be clogged. Follow the procedures in the Carb Rebuild procedures posted on Basscliff's page or you won't have a good solid baseline to troubleshoot from.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
-
irishluck
But doing a sync on the bike can bypass the benc sync. Before you sync the carbs all together with a carb sync tool you have to calibrate it first which is off the main carb. Once that is done then you sync all the 4 carbs together. But just to make sure. I just took my feeler gauge and put the .038mm gauge through and it goes right through it.
After I let each carb sit for a couple hours I took a power washer to every nook and cranny on the carb and then took a air hose to everything.
Now just to let everyone know as well, this is the 3rd time the carbs have been cleaned. Before I did a shim job, all 4 cylinders were firings. I just had a lot of backfire
which then i was told by some guys on here that I needed to do a shim job. When the shims were checked it was to my knowledge that the valves were way to tight which needed to be reshimmed.
After the shim job, these problems have surfaced.
Now something I did notice while cleaning the carbs. One of the needle jets, there is a small pin that slides against the float, It seemed like It was stuck. So I cleaned those as well, all of them slide perfectly on the seat.
I am replacing the seals for the seats as well.Last edited by Guest; 04-06-2015, 11:55 PM.
Comment
-
Three times on carbs?
Check compression1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostThree times on carbs?
Check compression
I also question the "pressure washing" of the carbs. Doesn't sound like you're following the rebuild tutorial.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
Comment
-
irishluck
Please read my previous comments. I already did a compression test to rule that out.
Originally posted by irishluck View PostWell I didnt need to buy the sync tool really.
Just checked if they were in sync and they all are without doing any adjustments
Just checked the bowls redman and they all have fuel in them.
And no I never took the bodies off the rails. I just tore each carb down and cleaned them by hand like I do all my carbs.
And just to rule out compression, I just tested the cylinders and there all in spec
Cylinder 1, 2 and 4 are 130psi and cylinder 3 is like 114psi.
So there all with in limits.
Im starting to fall back to the carburetors themselves.
Comment
-
Just grabbing at straws here.....
Was running, adjusted the valves (shim job), and now cylinder 1 & 4 not firing (ex pipe not heating up). 1&4 cyclinder seem dry of gas, but have gas in bowls of all 4 carbs.
I cant think of anything with the valve adjust that that would effect what you are saying .... ah, you didnt take the cams out did you?... just grabbing at straws here.... but that would effect compression which you say is fairly good.
Any thing with the shim job that would cause the symptoms you say, would have to be so bad that it effects the compression.
Symptoms of gas in bowls but cyclinder seems dry, certainly sounds like carb needing cleaning.
The fact that it is 1 & 4, sounds like ignition problem, but you say that is good... and also see cylinders 1 & 4 seem dry of gas.... so... come back to carb cleaning (but that not at all related to the shim job).
And then in working on this problem you have cleaned carbs twice and three times. One time was spraying and blowing, another time was dissasembly from rack and Dipp for couple hours.
Most of my ewxperince with carb cleaning, was for years I would take carbs off bike, leave in rack, and sray carb cleanoer in everywere I could find, with little results. Then, after a few years, I would take out the jets and seats, and spray carb cleaniner everywherer and look for it to come out someplace, with maybe some better results. Did that for years and years.
Just going by what folks here said, and I have seen comments that need 24 complete submurge in chem dipp, with all the jets and seat removed and seperate in the dip, to get at and into through all the little passage ways thru the carb body. Can blow air or spray carb cleaner through the passage way and see it come out someplace else, but dont know if is comming out all the places it should or if the passage was is complelty clear. This is what other more experienced folk than I had told me. After my previous attempts at spraying-in-everyplace-and-see-come-out-somewhere did not provide much improvement, I did get a bucket of chem dip, and take each carb off the rack, and dissasemble each carb, and remove jets and seats, and dipp each one for 24 hours. Ah, that actaully made a difference, much better.
Other suggestion might be, on next carb clean, also get an o-ring kit and replace all the o-rings.
Search for Robert Barr Cycle O-rings. A fine member here who sells a kit of all the orings for very reasonable price, and are the proper type of orings.
And maybe also the o-rings in the rubber boots. And a kit of nicer boot bolts.
.Last edited by Redman; 04-08-2015, 04:43 PM.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
Comment
-
http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
Comment
-
irishluck
Let me put the carbs back on the bike and also check the coil again and see where im at with that.
Comment
-
Try it with just the bench sync (feeler gauge or eyeball).
My suggestion/suspicion is that trying to do a carb stick sync while 2 cylinders not firing is not a good idea.
.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
Comment
-
irishluck
Already did
Originally posted by irishluck View PostBut doing a sync on the bike can bypass the benc sync. Before you sync the carbs all together with a carb sync tool you have to calibrate it first which is off the main carb. Once that is done then you sync all the 4 carbs together. But just to make sure. I just took my feeler gauge and put the .038mm gauge through and it goes right through it.
After I let each carb sit for a couple hours I took a power washer to every nook and cranny on the carb and then took a air hose to everything.
Now just to let everyone know as well, this is the 3rd time the carbs have been cleaned. Before I did a shim job, all 4 cylinders were firings. I just had a lot of backfire
which then i was told by some guys on here that I needed to do a shim job. When the shims were checked it was to my knowledge that the valves were way to tight which needed to be reshimmed.
After the shim job, these problems have surfaced.
Now something I did notice while cleaning the carbs. One of the needle jets, there is a small pin that slides against the float, It seemed like It was stuck. So I cleaned those as well, all of them slide perfectly on the seat.
I am replacing the seals for the seats as well.
Comment
-
irishluck
Alright Im done with this stupid bike.
I have done everything I can to get this stupid thing running properly and nothing.
The cylinder has good compression.
It has the shim job done properly.
The plugs are good, wires are good.
carbs have been rebuilt to many times now and the PROPER way.
Has clean fresh gas and still a piece of **** running bike.
Now ive only got cylinder #1 and #2 firing.
Im selling itLast edited by Guest; 04-19-2015, 04:19 PM.
Comment
Comment