What have they done.. PO Electrical Gremlins

[Guest]

Here is the state of my wiring harness.

Melted


Cut


And my fav, the 'You did what Now?'


This is how i see it, The Bike Kept Popping Fuses, so they decided to cut some wires and bypass the reason for that, They also found fit in their wisdom to replace the fuse with a piece of WIRE!!!!

Can anyone explain any of what i'm seeing here and how it should really be wired up?

[OldVet66]

Here is a link for the service manual, it should have your electrical diagram: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...anual_1983.pdf

[tom203]

That's the main 15amp fuse that they replaced with wire - probably ran out of fuses and had to get "creative". There's a good chance that his problem involved R/R and/or its connections.

[Redman]

Yes, It Is the Main fuse (should be 15amp) that has been jumpered out with that wire stuck in its place ...

... but ah.... speaking of the main fuse....

... those wires that are cut from the fuse block: appear to me to be the wires that should be for the main power comming in to the main fuse (big red, from batt+ & R/R +) and going back out (other red, to ignition switch). SO that Main fuse (or jumper wire) is not really in the circuit any more.
(and whoever did that did not do you any favor, especially by cutting so short that can not reconnect).

.... and that splice the in photo of solenoid... that looks to me to be how are powering the ignition ignition swtich...


My thereory of what happened: Appears to me that had a bad connection inside fuse block, that caused the heat/melting (I could show fairly similar photos of melted fuse block), and what they should have done is replace the fuse block and all probably would have been good (can find on ebay most all the time for $10-15-20). But no, no, they started hacking splicing - just to get things so would power up - but, ah.....

You are going to need a new (used/salvage) fuse block.
But making connections to it is going to be the problem.

Will give you time to sort some of this out. Gain some more familiarity with things. Can talk about options at a later time.


Other note:
When Key is on, then power comes back to the fuse block on the Org wire to power the three other fuses (Head, Signal, Ignition).
Appears that your Org wire is still there.

....>>>later note
I suppose one option would be to add an inline fuse (15 amp) in the wire that is spliced into the main big red wire. This will become your Main fuse.
And then dont need to use the Main fuse of the fuse block, and can continue to use the existing fuse block just for the Head, Ignition & Signal fuse. (the Aux Power Source isnt going to work).

But you might still want to find a better fuse block. I see corrosion (is not really corrosion, but that is what it can be called) on the connections, so might be more of the same inside, which might have been the original problem with the Main fuse connection.

[posplayr]

The first mistake was to let the fuse box get that dirty. It was all downhill from there. Ironically this is one of the good fuse boxes.

Dirty contacts caused the fuse connections to overheat. Probably also upset charging voltages (see Revised Phase A testing for voltage drops) and increased strain on r/r and stator. The contacts inside of the fuse block plug are filthy


I'm starting to collect a set of electrical "Hall of Shame" photos, if you don't mind, this set will fit in prominently.

[Woodsy]

Not a problem feel free to use the photos.

Thanks for that info Redman. I am on the look out for another fuse block from a wreck. So far here in Australia I've been quoted the same price for a used one as I have for a new one. $77 plus postage. Although I am yet to hit up the wreckers near my work. I've now got a copy of the wiring diagram although I have found some differences in wire colours? So not sure if the USA has a different harness?

[OldVet66]

Some of the wire colors are prone to fading, and depending on the manufacture date it might be manufactured the previous year. Check basscliff's bikecliff website and see if you find a diagram that matches

[Redman]

.......... I've now got a copy of the wiring diagram although I have found some differences in wire colours?......

I dont think so.

Wire colors fade over time, heat, gas/oil.

If you have a color schematic (early Clymer) in a manual, that too can fade, and is subject to your interpretation as to what to call what you see printed on the page.
If you are printing out a copy of something that was scanned, well, then have two more occasion for colors to get changed somewhat.

For following on a schematic to determine how something is suppose to work, I like a color schematic, just because is easy to follow that wire across the page.
But when actually working on bike, I prefer a B&W schematic (factory, or, later Clymers) with the color spelled out.

Ew, if cant fins a stock/salvage fuse block for a reasonable price, maybe get some generic one.
Right now you are only using 3 fuses of your fuse block.

[chef1366]

Sorry about that mess
LOL
That sucks

[Woodsy]

I've decided to buy a new fuse panel, staying with an original suzuki item.

I replaced the Plug with a new item and new connections.


I pulled some tape off the harness just to check some wiring that the PO had stuffed up and i stumbled upon these. 3 yellow wires to me says stator wiring, but they are in the main harness, any ideas? They have been cut off at the fuse panel end.

[OldVet66]

The only three solid yellow wires I see on your wiring diagram that are not associated with lights are the stator wires. I would manually trace them, open up the harness and see what other surprises you might find. There are other yellow wires but they have tracer stripes of different colors on them. Use a good electrical tape to re-wrap the harness like 3M 33 0r 66. It's hard to see in your picture but it looks like that harness is not the stock wrapping.

[Redman]

QUOTE
I've decided to buy a new fuse panel, staying with an original suzuki item.

I replaced the Plug with a new item and new connections.
END QUOTE

Good job.
Great.





About the 3 yellow wires, do sound like stator leads - - an aftermarket stator - - and not in the main harness.

Might be hard to tell, but does the black tape look like original, or what someone did.
THe 3 yellow wires in photo are cut off. I assume that is how you found them.

Quess: aftermarket stator wires that someone added, and tapped over... then later got cutt off. Maybe other end of them are cutt off too, abbondonded in place and another stator installed and other wires ran to the R/R.
Ah, you do have a stator conntect to your R/R dont you?

.

[posplayr]

You can see that all the contacts in the fuse box connector were providing poor conductivity as the wires appear to have been distorted with heat. I assume that when you say you changed "connections" you mean the crimp on contacts. Now would be the time to spray everything with contact cleaner to tray and prevent further corrosion in side of the contact crimps. Not sure if you soldered those contacts as well.....

BTW that electrical tape does NOT look like an OEM job and the stator wires are obviously after market.

[Woodsy]

Found where they run too.

Top left is the connector up near the carbs.

The stator wires are the lower set you can see on the right and the RR wires above it.

The RR wires are yellow, white with red line and white with blue line. Depending what wiring diagram I look at this is both correct and incorrect.

I'm guessing they decided to wire the stator directly to the RR bypassing the original connection for some unknown reason.

[OldVet66]

That's what I suspected. Now would be a good time to install a modern series R/R and be done with charging issues when you get the bike back together. I believe the existing R/R is not stock either, so don't get wrapped around the axle about wire colors, the manual I linked you to is probably correct and those hidden cut off yellow wires were the original R/R wires. They match the wiring diagram.