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GS 550 Ignition fuse blows at key-on

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    #16
    Originally posted by Chris15379 View Post
    I also checked the coils, had 3.5-4 ohms on both. Ill take a closer look at the harness, wish there was another way to narrow it down
    I thought you could feel your wires getting hot? If the wire is cold there is no current ==> where the heat stops is the short.

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      #17
      Yes thats how I figured id find it, but I cant follow the wire after it goes into the tape/loom right under the front of the tank, havent found where it comes out on the other end of the bike, and really didnt want to have to disconnect everything and start unwrapping the wire harness
      Last edited by Guest; 04-19-2015, 10:13 PM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Chris15379 View Post
        Yes thats how I figured id find it, but I cant follow the wire after it goes into the tape/loom right under the front of the tank, havent found where it comes out on the other end of the bike, and really didnt want to have to disconnect everything and start unwrapping the wire harness

        Hint: if the wire is wrapped in a harness with multiple wraps of tape it is highly unlikely that is where the short it. Either it is cut (and obvious by inspection) or a melted connector or something is installed..
        No need to rip the harness apart, although some disassembly is worth pursuing.

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          #19
          Check in your headlight bucket

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            #20
            Follow the wires that come out of the right hand control (Start and Kill switch) and see where they connect into the main harness. Most likely it going to be a melted connector. Also take a close look along the entire main harness from that connector to the coils and see if you can spot something abraded or melted.
            http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

            JTGS850GL aka Julius

            GS Resource Greetings

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              #21
              Im going to get back out there today and see if I see anything different. The plug on the end of the wires (in the headlight bucket) coming from the kill switch is clean not damaged its a 3 wire plug and its the middle wire (color is solid orange) thats getting hot only when the switch is plugged into the harness and the switch is in the "on" position.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Chris15379 View Post
                Im going to get back out there today and see if I see anything different. The plug on the end of the wires (in the headlight bucket) coming from the kill switch is clean not damaged its a 3 wire plug and its the middle wire (color is solid orange) thats getting hot only when the switch is plugged into the harness and the switch is in the "on" position.

                Solid Orange is the output of your ignition switch that comes back to power the fuse box. Everything that is distributed out through the fuse box comes through this Orange wire. If the IGN fuse is blowing then it is from current coming through Orange. No surprise, you have a heavy short.

                You need to chase downstream and check the Orange/White wire since you say you are blowing IGN fuses. Remember O/W goes to teh kill switch, coils and ignition. Since you have points leave that ignitor off.
                Last edited by posplayr; 04-20-2015, 01:12 PM.

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                  #23
                  If it's the solid orange wire that gets hot, and not the orange/white wire, then it may very well be an internal short in the switch assembly. Try to remove the switch assembly from the handlebars (two screws) and let it float without touching anything metal. If the fuse stops blowing, then it's an internal short.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Well I decided to check continuity to ground at the orange wire. I disconnected the kill switch, found the orange wire had power, on the kill switch end the orange wire had continuity to ground. So I bypassed the switch and crimped the orange/white wire with the orange wire. Manually triggered the starter solenoid and the bike starts right up and runs smoothly. I was going to just ad a push button start switch on it, but maybe ill just put an oem switch on it if they aren't too pricey

                    Thanks for the help guys

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Check on Ebay and you'll find them all over the place for about $20. Pretty much anything from a GS550 to a GS1100 will work if you don't mind cutting and splicing in wires. All should have a similar color code. Post in the wanted section and maybe you can help a GSR member out as well.

                      Here's an example of one on ebay right now:

                      http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                      JTGS850GL aka Julius

                      GS Resource Greetings

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Simplest explanation is usually that someone crimped the wire up at the kill switch when they fitted the hand control to the bar...
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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                          #27
                          On this bike, the switch assembly is also part of the twist throttle (cables come out right below the switches) If i pull the 2 screws out of the bottom of the switch housing am I going to have springs or anything else to worry about coming apart with it? or is all the spring tension down on the carbs and not on the handlebar?
                          Last edited by Guest; 04-20-2015, 04:38 PM.

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                            #28
                            No issues with things popping out at your. In reality you only need to replace the top half. The bottom half with the throttle cables can remain intact.
                            http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                            JTGS850GL aka Julius

                            GS Resource Greetings

                            Comment

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