Cyclops 3800 H4 LED Headlamp Bulb

[posplayr]

Ichiban would be proud of you.

But he might argue that green ones would have been better.

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I have been trying to source the proper green zip ties, but was wondering if it really matters after applying the waterproof assembly tape?


All joking aside, the 3800 really runs quite cool. The air coming out of the fan after running on high for 1/2 an hour even feels a little cool. When Cyclops Sales talked about using a rubber O-ring as a spacer, I was also skeptical. I now realize it just doesn't matter; there is very little heat conducted out of the bulb to the reflector. It all dissipates through convection and through the cool forced air of the fan.

The DC to DC controller on the other hand gets pretty warm (130 DegF). When I install the unit, I will bond the amplifier to the headlamp bucket for conductive flow away from the little unit. I'm debating whether to use the Ichiban approved zip tie or use a thermal epoxy?

[Grimly]

Here is a link to a simple experiment to see the effect of a cutoff when used with LED lighting. Apparently the type of light doesn't really matter in creating the sharp cut-off.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?211405-LED-projector-headlight-experiment&p=2680597&viewfull=1#post2680597

Here

That's interesting, thanks.

[posplayr]

Cyclops 3800 H4 LED Headlamp Bulb 8" reflector

Here is a video showing the effect of focusing your LED Drop bulb-in by adjusting the depth into the reflector. Certainly worth playing with a bit before completing your install. At least on this reflector, the cutoff seems to be improved and there is a reduction in spill over to the driver's side.

https://youtu.be/APQxf_JluuI

Picture of the Zip tie used to space the bulb further back in the reflector which changes the focus of the cutoff and other hotspots (as seen in the video).

UPDATE: I figured a way to use a piece of Schedule 40 3/4" white PCV pipe. Use the band saw and belt sander to make a 3.75mm spacer. It fits perfectly behind the H-4 mounting plate. The large rubber seal fits without cutting; just install it (over the LED side) before mounting the spacer and H-4 mount.

The additional depth of the back of the Cyclops FAN is about 7.5mm more than the stock halogen bulb with the stock H-4 plug. There is some room (1/8") to grind off the back of the fan shroud without effecting anything. I will have to see how that goes which is the next step.

I tried to optimize the Lo beam cutoff of the Halogen; did no good. It just seemed to get worse as I pulled it back. After focusing the Cyclops 3800 had a noticeably better cutoff than the Halogen.

[posplayr]

OK This is a quick run down of the mods to make to focus the Cyclops 3800 to optimize the low beam cutoff and also make it only 1.5mm (0.060") longer than the stock Halogen/H-4 connector. I think the optimized cutoff is even better than a stock Halogen and certainly better than the HID.

In my application 83 GS1100ED with 88 GSXR front end the ignition switch virtually goes into the opening at the back of the headlamp shell. Clearance is at a premium so staying as close to stock is very important else I will have lots of headaches with reorganizing my fairing. In order to get the focus correct, I also had to add an extra 0.140" (3.75mm) so I have no choice but to take off the fan cover at the back of the 3800.

So basically what you do is take out the two screws that are holding the cover down, then take out the two screws on the cable strain relief. I then used a Dremel cutoff wheel to separate the cover from the back 1/2 of the strain relief. I then reassembled the strain relief with the cover cut off. I put a couple of drops of super glue into the groves that support the strain relief . It doesn't move now; it shaves off 0.29" or 7.3mm for the plastic cover. You are left with these two extra screws and can even replace the cover in the future if you wish.




I made a spacer out of 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. It fits perfectly and even centers on the premolded grooves of the bulbs plastic housing. In my case teh spacer is 3.75mm and it gives a nice cutoff. Any 8" lamp will probably be about the same. If you have a 7" it is probably closer to 0.060" as per the experience Cyclops have.




You will need to fit the spacer under the H4 metal tabbed adapter. In order to do so you will need to get longer screws. I happened to have nearly the same size screw just longer. be careful not to break out the holes. I pre drilled and test fit the screws being very careful. Now that you have predrilled the holes for the plate screws and test fit them you are ready to assemble the bulb.


This picture shows the order of assembly, The rubber cover comes first over the LED emitters. then the spacer and then the H-4 adapter plate. Make sure it is in the correct direction.The hollow side goes out or back.



Carefully pull the rubber over the bulb and pull it back so you have access to the emitter end of the bulb. Slide the ring over the top.



Carefully install the new longer screws into the old holes. The original holes are self tapping so probably best to just find some longer ones.



This is the back and what you will see from the back of your headlamp.



here is the distance/length you get as modified (37.5mm)




This is what the original Halogen Bulb and an OEM connector measure to (36.0mm). The moded 3800 is 1.5mm longer or 0.60".

[posplayr]

The final steps are to mount the bulb into the reflector. Spread the retaining clip bit to get it around the rubber cover, then insert the bulb into the recess of the reflector (carefully).



From there it is easy to clip it in and pull down the rubber ready to install .
REMEMBER: That little amplifier gets pretty hot (130 degF) and it would be well to mount it so it can conduct heat into something with some thermal mass. I plan to thermally bond it to my headlamp shell (what wraps around the refector). That should keep it much cooler and add substantially to the lifetime of the setup.

Also remember to keep the contacts clean as if there is a voltage drop to the amplifier it will cause more current to pass and I have see nit almost triple the current from 2.2A on Hi up to 5.5 amps (max). This characteristic will apply to any LED with a controlled current amplifier.

[JTGS850GL]

One issue I would be concerned with using that setup: With the rear of the fan open it would seem to be vulnerable to getting jammed by a loose wire or some other debris. Wouldn't there be enough room to cover the rear of the fan assembly with a wire mesh or thin metal plate? Using 20 gauge sheet metal it should only add 1 mm or so to the overall length. Virtually no increase in length if you recess it slightly. If so, it would eliminate this potential problem. I know that I have a lot of loose wires in my headlight bucket.

[posplayr]

One issue I would be concerned with using that setup: With the rear of the fan open it would seem to be vulnerable to getting jammed by a loose wire or some other debris. Wouldn't there be enough room to cover the rear of the fan assembly with a wire mesh or thin metal plate? Using 20 gauge sheet metal it should only add 1 mm or so to the overall length. Virtually no increase in length if you recess it slightly. If so, it would eliminate this potential problem. I know that I have a lot of loose wires in my headlight bucket.

On my bike it is so close nothing can really get in there, and I don't have any loose wires in that vicinity. However, you are correct a thin piece a metal can be cut out with tin snips and some holes drilled in it to allow the air to come through. The mounting screws are all ready there.

[posplayr]

bump....................

[first timer]

That's all well and good academically but how does it perform in the real world? What's your take riding with the new bulb at night?

[posplayr]

That's all well and good academically but how does it perform in the real world? What's your take riding with the new bulb at night?

I'm sure my very analytic answer will be "it's like daylight" just like all the other LED bulbs.

here is a comparison from a thumper.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1122095-headlight-upgrade-cyclops-3800-lumen-h4-led-bulb-test-results/

Before doing the write-up, my basic assumption is that the Cyclops 3800 is the highest power LED (based on current consumption and specs), so the main issue was what does the beam look like mounted in the 8" trainlight? I tried to address that by looking at the near field patterns and how well cutoff performed comparing Halogen and 55W HID of which it did better in both cases.

The link above will tell you that the Cyclops is just a little less intense than the 55W HID in some directions but probably a better spread. That is about All I'm going to have before pulling my fairing apart to mount the thing.

[posplayr]

Daylight review

https://youtu.be/GkMy-gf9BCs

I should mention this was late at night and I forgot to put the camera on manual. So the distant changes in light between high and low beam are at least 50% more from what you see in the video. The close in flood lamp is probably about right.
It is also interesting to look at the side of the motorhome, as it shows pretty clearly the effect of the cutoff and the change in dip angle as the Cyclops is switched between Low and Hi.

The video is taken with the camera in the dark taken from behind the bike with a distance of about 7ft from camera to headlamp. I start in Lo beam and then switch a couple time between Lo and Hi. returning to Lo beam, I then switch the 18W Work light on and Off where you will notice the increase in lighting directly in front of the bike. Finally all three are turned on.

None of the beams was actually adjusted except that the Cyclops had been previously focused using the PVC spacer.I popped the bulb out of my spare lense and into the lens on the bike.

This video is of the Cyclops 3800 with both Low and High beam (40 watts rated/32Watts measured) as well as a work light I got off of Amazon ( 18W rated/12W measured). The flood light is used as a close in driving/fog light with a 30 degree flood pattern for close in. I have it controlled by a left hand switch push button. I have played with a cutoff for it but the video is the unshielded lamp which adds substantially I think.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZPI0NE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

If you don't know how far the beam should shine, here is a link with some reference information for Dual HID lights on a CAR. The CAR had dual lights where as the motorcycle has only a single (excluding the work light). As we can see 100 ft is generally a minimum strong light region and the HID should extend well beyond as is also in evidence in this video.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/publications/research/safety/humanfac/04144/methods.cfm

[Chuck78]

Great work, Jim! I was pretty sold on the AVDmonster light due to BWringer & ADVrider.com reviews, so this is great news! I would really like to see the AVDmonster side by side with this, but it seems as if the power consumption says it all.

I wish someone who could compare different reflector assemblies and optimize the focus as you have. it seems as if the 7" is definitely much better than the 6", at the standard model comes with a 7", & the L model likely holds to its theme of its targeted looks over function.

My 7" GS650 6H5 Koito reflector was a huge upgrade with halogen bulb over the stock sealed beam. broke that, deer, accidentally downgraded to a good looking GS1000L chrome H4 assembly with a $25 Chinese fleabay Cree "30W" h4 LED replacement. Pattern width was close to the 7" h5 koito 60w, but not as good, not focused, and not nearly as intense... have to swap a halogen back for comparison sake.

[posplayr]

Great work, Jim! I was pretty sold on the AVDmonster light due to BWringer & ADVrider.com reviews, so this is great news! I would really like to see the AVDmonster side by side with this, but it seems as if the power consumption says it all.

I wish someone who could compare different reflector assemblies and optimize the focus as you have. it seems as if the 7" is definitely much better than the 6", at the standard model comes with a 7", & the L model likely holds to its theme of its targeted looks over function.

My 7" GS650 6H5 Koito reflector was a huge upgrade with halogen bulb over the stock sealed beam. broke that, deer, accidentally downgraded to a good looking GS1000L chrome H4 assembly with a $25 Chinese fleabay Cree "30W" h4 LED replacement. Pattern width was close to the 7" h5 koito 60w, but not as good, not focused, and not nearly as intense... have to swap a halogen back for comparison sake.

Thanks, sorry I was only looking for the best .

I suspect that you will see a similar focus sensitivity for the smaller reflectors. As mentioned the Cyclops tech support claimed that generally they work well with most conventional reflectors and I saw nothing to suggest otherwise in my testing using the 8". In fact it would seem the 8" is not much different to the smaller bulbs they typically fit.

[smithy09]

Thanks for all your input everyone. It's been a while since I was on this site, and it has only got better.. I wanted a decent LED H4 replacement for my GS1000 S and reading through these threads has saved me a whole lot of time and effort and probably mistakes. I have just ordered the Cyclops 3800 with the 7000 lumen upgrade. Wish me luck! Now for the indicators, tail light and instrument lights..... And yes, the after market stator and series regulator are already on their way! Big road trip planned and I want to make sure everything works!! Smithy, Auckland, New Zealand.