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Okay fellas, I have been reading my ass off on Basscliff's website. As my bike runs okay after I cleaned connections in the ignition lines. But I'm not getting the 12 volts to my coils. I'm getting a pretty good drop there. So far I have purchased the 12v/30Amp relay, base connector, female 1/4" spade connectors, a 30 Amp inline fuse holder with 10A red blade fuses.
I've been reading through the PDF. What gauge wire do I need? Does it matter a whole lot? I was thinking 18 or should I go heavier?
Also, I noticed Basscliffs relay mod was different in the fact he actually cut the wires to his coils and connected them together. He also did not have to unravel all the tape that have the O/W wires going to the harness. He cut those and connected them together.
Coil wires to 87 and harness wires to 86. And he's running it down by the battery.
It looks simpler and less time consuming than the PDF linked. Yes or no?
This will be my first ever attempt at rewiring anything. I want to do it the right way, but would prefer to do it in the simplest, most time efficient way as well. Don't get me wrong, I won't be in any hurry.
So this...
My Coil Relay Mod Story - by BassCliff
Under my tank there are two orange/white wires coming out of the wiring harness, one going to each coil. I cut both of them. The two o/w wires that go back into the harness go up to the kill switch. The other side of the o/w wires go to the two coils. On both sides I stripped the wires a little, wrapped them together, tinned them with solder, and crimped them both into a spade connector. Now both of the wires going to the coils are crimped into one connector. Also, the two o/w wires coming out of the harness are crimped into one connector. I poured over the wiring diagram for my bike to make sure it would work this way. It did.
[The following paragraph is somewhat speculative. I'd have to check a wiring diagram to be sure.] Some coil relay mod diagrams show that one of the o/w wires going back into the loom is left unconnected. While this doesn't affect the operation of the relay mod on the coils, it would seem to disable the kill switch. My kill switch still works.
Then I ran 2 wires (both red in my case, you may want to use different colors) all the way back to the relay next to my battery box. I had to be careful to label the wires correctly so that I know which one goes to the coils and which one goes back into the wiring harness.
I took a Sharpie and wrote on the plastic covers of the spade connectors (you've seen them on my r/r replacement guide and such). I came up with a little mnemonic to remember what goes where.
There are 4 connections on the standard relay; 30, 85, 86, 87. The power from the battery gets connected to #30. Then, like the car Mazda made years ago - Mazda GLC, the Great Little Car - I think "G-L-C" for the rest of the connections. G for ground. L for loom (another name for the wiring harness), and C for coils. (+)=30, Ground=85, Loom=86, Coils=87.
In this manner I used my Sharpie to write "+", "G", "L", "C", on the connections at the relay. The connections at the relay are all female spade connectors since the relay has the males. If I ever want to take the relay out of the circuit I can...
My clutch interlock was not affected at all. I still have to pull the clutch in to start my bike even if it is in neutral.
If everything else is well-maintained in your engine, then even if you have some loss at the coils, there is enough spark to start combustion. But a good, fat spark gives you the most efficient burn. It's usually when the voltage falls below 10v that you really start having problems, especially if there is anything else wrong with your motor. These engines are so well designed that they can take a LOT of abuse before they quit running.
VS this....
I've been reading through the PDF. What gauge wire do I need? Does it matter a whole lot? I was thinking 18 or should I go heavier?
Also, I noticed Basscliffs relay mod was different in the fact he actually cut the wires to his coils and connected them together. He also did not have to unravel all the tape that have the O/W wires going to the harness. He cut those and connected them together.
Coil wires to 87 and harness wires to 86. And he's running it down by the battery.
It looks simpler and less time consuming than the PDF linked. Yes or no?
This will be my first ever attempt at rewiring anything. I want to do it the right way, but would prefer to do it in the simplest, most time efficient way as well. Don't get me wrong, I won't be in any hurry.
So this...
My Coil Relay Mod Story - by BassCliff
Under my tank there are two orange/white wires coming out of the wiring harness, one going to each coil. I cut both of them. The two o/w wires that go back into the harness go up to the kill switch. The other side of the o/w wires go to the two coils. On both sides I stripped the wires a little, wrapped them together, tinned them with solder, and crimped them both into a spade connector. Now both of the wires going to the coils are crimped into one connector. Also, the two o/w wires coming out of the harness are crimped into one connector. I poured over the wiring diagram for my bike to make sure it would work this way. It did.
[The following paragraph is somewhat speculative. I'd have to check a wiring diagram to be sure.] Some coil relay mod diagrams show that one of the o/w wires going back into the loom is left unconnected. While this doesn't affect the operation of the relay mod on the coils, it would seem to disable the kill switch. My kill switch still works.
Then I ran 2 wires (both red in my case, you may want to use different colors) all the way back to the relay next to my battery box. I had to be careful to label the wires correctly so that I know which one goes to the coils and which one goes back into the wiring harness.
I took a Sharpie and wrote on the plastic covers of the spade connectors (you've seen them on my r/r replacement guide and such). I came up with a little mnemonic to remember what goes where.
There are 4 connections on the standard relay; 30, 85, 86, 87. The power from the battery gets connected to #30. Then, like the car Mazda made years ago - Mazda GLC, the Great Little Car - I think "G-L-C" for the rest of the connections. G for ground. L for loom (another name for the wiring harness), and C for coils. (+)=30, Ground=85, Loom=86, Coils=87.
In this manner I used my Sharpie to write "+", "G", "L", "C", on the connections at the relay. The connections at the relay are all female spade connectors since the relay has the males. If I ever want to take the relay out of the circuit I can...
- Pull the fuse on the hot wire to the battery.
- Disconnect the "C" and "L" connections from the relay.
- Use my short jumper, with male connectors at each end, to reconnect (C and L) the coil wires back into the harness.
My clutch interlock was not affected at all. I still have to pull the clutch in to start my bike even if it is in neutral.
If everything else is well-maintained in your engine, then even if you have some loss at the coils, there is enough spark to start combustion. But a good, fat spark gives you the most efficient burn. It's usually when the voltage falls below 10v that you really start having problems, especially if there is anything else wrong with your motor. These engines are so well designed that they can take a LOT of abuse before they quit running.
VS this....
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