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Installing the dyna s ignition still 2 and 3 plugs not working
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mike_of_bbg
And another thing (no, I'm not just trying to boost my thread count ). Make sure that the Dyna rotor is free to advance. They include a spacer for the electronic ignition bikes. However when I installed mine the spacer was too thick and with the crank end bolt tightened down the rotor could not advance. This was apparently common and I do not know that Dyna has done anything about it. You can sand/grind down the spacer, or find a thinner washer to use in its place. I sanded down the end of the rotor to fix the issue - just about 0.3mm or so. You don't want enough space for the rotor to slip off of the mechanical advance, but you do want it to be able to advance freely. It should still start and idle OK, and of course would not explain a difference between 1-4 and 2-3 sparking, but could cause the bike to run poorly as RPMs increase.
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trucker
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostAnd another thing (no, I'm not just trying to boost my thread count ). Make sure that the Dyna rotor is free to advance. They include a spacer for the electronic ignition bikes. However when I installed mine the spacer was too thick and with the crank end bolt tightened down the rotor could not advance. This was apparently common and I do not know that Dyna has done anything about it. You can sand/grind down the spacer, or find a thinner washer to use in its place. I sanded down the end of the rotor to fix the issue - just about 0.3mm or so. You don't want enough space for the rotor to slip off of the mechanical advance, but you do want it to be able to advance freely. It should still start and idle OK, and of course would not explain a difference between 1-4 and 2-3 sparking, but could cause the bike to run poorly as RPMs increase.
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mike_of_bbg
There are lots of potential nuances to the coil relay mod. There are a couple of docs on Mr. BassCliff's little site, if you have not been introduced to it already:
BikeCliff site
Link to some CRM information:
Doc from Mr. Matchless, CRM with Dyna S:
I haven't really read either in a long time. When I did my coil relay mod along with a Dyna S installation, I found and used the + connector on the (now otherwise unused) igniter connector for the relay activation.
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If your battery is showing over 12V and you're only seeing 8.8V then you have some serious losses between the battery and the ignition system. You either have a bad switch (ignition, start or kill switch) or one of the connectors are high resistance. Find the offending component and fix it.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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trucker
Yes I didn't think of that my kill switch is bad I have been bypassing it and I forgot all about that I keep saying I need a new then forget would that be cuz of low voltage.
Mike thanks for all the information I am going to look through those site and mod my coils I think I may also just pick up new plugs to those NGK that were listed are only a few bucks each.
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trucker
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostThere are lots of potential nuances to the coil relay mod. There are a couple of docs on Mr. BassCliff's little site, if you have not been introduced to it already:
BikeCliff site
Link to some CRM information:
Doc from Mr. Matchless, CRM with Dyna S:
I haven't really read either in a long time. When I did my coil relay mod along with a Dyna S installation, I found and used the + connector on the (now otherwise unused) igniter connector for the relay activation.
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In the coil mod you are cutting the supply from the kill switch to the coils and using that to close the relay and then re-feed the coils directly from the battery "+" through the relay. The relay is not particularly affected by voltage drops so it enables the kill switch to indirectly and reliably feed battery voltage to the coils without causing problems. The variations depend on how the Dyna-S is supplied with power. If your red Dyna-S wire goes to the coils you don't have to do anything else. It needs the same voltage the coils get. Some bikes are hooked up differently. On my bike I just had to follow the orange/white wire about 4" into the wiring bundle and cut it ahead of where the wire from the kill switch splits for both coils.Last edited by OldVet66; 05-18-2015, 08:50 AM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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trucker
Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostIn the coil mod you are cutting the supply from the kill switch to the coils and using that to close the relay and then re-feed the coils directly from the battery "+" through the relay. The relay is not particularly affected by voltage drops so it enables the kill switch to indirectly and reliably feed battery voltage to the coils without causing problems. The variations depend on how the Dyna-S is supplied with power. If your red Dyna-S wire goes to the coils you don't have to do anything else. It needs the same voltage the coils get. Some bikes are hooked up differently. On my bike I just had to follow the orange/white wire about 4" into the wiring bundle and cut it ahead of where the wire from the kill switch splits for both coils.
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The Dyna-S instructions for my bike go to a coil "+" wire with the long Dyna-S red wire. That is a very thin wire so I assume the ignition draws very little power. That is right in the area were the kill switch feed to the coils is cut for the coil mod. I mounted my relay on the electrics plate near the fuse box. I believe I used #12 wire so there wouldn't be much of a voltage drop. Probably overkill, but it's what I had at the time. It can't hurt to use a larger gauge than is necessary if that answers your question. Generally a larger wire makes up for distance. I'm going from the battery through the relay and then back up to the coils so there might be two or three feet of wire there. I wanted the relay where I could easily get to it.Last edited by OldVet66; 05-18-2015, 12:18 PM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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trucker
Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostThe Dyna-S instructions for my bike go to a coil "+" wire with the long Dyna-S red wire. That is a very thin wire so I assume the ignition draws very little power. That is right in the area were the kill switch feed to the coils is cut for the coil mod. I mounted my relay on the electrics plate near the fuse box. I believe I used #12 wire so there wouldn't be much of a voltage drop. Probably overkill, but it's what I had at the time. It can't hurt to use a larger gauge than is necessary if that answers your question. Generally a larger wire makes up for distance. I'm going from the battery through the relay and then back up to the coils so there might be two or three feet of wire there. I wanted the relay where I could easily get to it.
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trucker
I got it i got it woo-hoo I modified my coils Wich it did not do much. but I got all 4 cylinder going it was cuz of that washer I was supposed to put on the shaft for the dyna s unit. Finally it has only taken for ever now to find something else wrong with it.lol
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