GS750E Lights on starts, dies, runs for a bit then dies...won't start

[Guest]

I'm a bit stumped at this problem as I just installed a stage 3 dyno jet kit. The bike fired up like a dream and it ran so smooth I thought I was dreaming.

Over the next few days while driving the bike it seemed to switch off like someone had hit the kill switch then would continue running without issue.

Today I tried starting the bike but it didn't want to turn over. The battery is a bit weak so I boosted it from a car battery
and it fired up well.

It stalled and I tried to start it. Had to hook up the other battery it fired and back fired ran for a minute then quit.

I installed another battery but it just turned over, would start then quit.

Thing is that the lights are all on and the battery is good. when it runs it shows 13.4 volts on the battery so I think it's charging ok. Battery is 11.6 when bike is shut off.

My thinking is it's something to do with the lockout switches...kick stand and clutch.
I cleaned the clutch switch and tested the continuity so I know it works.

Is there a way to bypass the kick stand switch and clutch switch on these bikes?

Any help is appreciated.

D

[tom203]

"Thing is that the lights are all on and the battery is good. when it runs it shows 13.4 volts on the battery so I think it's charging ok. Battery is 11.6 when bike is shut off."

you have poor charging and maybe a dying battery. Above about 2000 rpms , voltage at battery should be close to 14 volts or more.
If you boost this thing from car, make sure car is not running or its alternator might overwhelm the bike's electricals.

[coolio]

"Thing is that the lights are all on and the battery is good. when it runs it shows 13.4 volts on the battery so I think it's charging ok. Battery is 11.6 when bike is shut off."

you have poor charging and maybe a dying battery. Above about 2000 rpms , voltage at battery should be close to 14 volts or more.
If you boost this thing from car, make sure car is not running or its alternator might overwhelm the bike's electricals.

What parts would cause poor charging? I'll read up on the charging system components. Thanks

[OldVet66]

R/R, stator, battery, dirty or corroded grounds, connections or switches. You do need to read up on the charging system. Look up posplayr, you will find all you will ever need to know about charging systems in his signature.

[John Park]

"Thing is that the lights are all on and the battery is good. when it runs it shows 13.4 volts on the battery so I think it's charging ok. Battery is 11.6 when bike is shut off."

you have poor charging and maybe a dying battery. Above about 2000 rpms , voltage at battery should be close to 14 volts or more.
If you boost this thing from car, make sure car is not running or its alternator might overwhelm the bike's electricals.

Battery voltage should be 12.6 volts which is 2.1 volts times 6. So either the battery is flat/screwed or the voltmeter is off. If the latter then the 13.4 is probably higher and you're just fine. The charge voltage will be somewhat dependent upon the state of charge of the battery as it will draw some voyage off if it is low. Any voltage over that of the battery will charge the battery and run things, but the design voyage is usually about 14.2; however some bikes will run lower than that if the battery is small so the battery doesn't overheat.

Sounds like a wiring/switch problem. I'd start at the battery ground wire. If you're testing the battery voltage between the positive and the frame rather than the negative terminal, a bad ground could be responsible for the battery reading a volt low.

[posplayr]

If the battery is 11.6 it needs to be charged or replaced. The tests are not meant to test charging with a dead battery. After getting a good battery redo the quick test and report the numbers