Front Brake Stuck

[Guest]

I tried hard but I can't find the right 'smilie' to go with that picture. But now I'm pretty sure that the return hole is blocked.

You might still be able to save it. At least it's had fluid in it and hasn't dried out. Take it off, strip it down, use lots of brake cleaner spray and see what you can see.

If you have access to a small ultra-sonic cleaner that would help a lot.

 

[steve murdoch]

Still in liquid form is a bonus. haha.
Usually has a nice aroma too.
Just a tip, when working with the brakes, put a towel over your tank for protection. It can damage the paint if spilled.

 

[Guest]

Right in the middle of that mess is a little cover tab that I guess is to keep crud from blocking the tiny return hole under it in the reservoir. I suppose you will break it like I did attempting to clean it and end up ordering a new reservoir along with the rebuild kit. If I remember correctly that plastic gets a bit brittle. There should always be a little slack in the brake line before it activates the brakes (about 1/4"). You have experienced what happens when there is none.

 

[Guest]

Do you guys think these brake pads would work in a 1977 GS550B?**

http://www.d2moto.com/1977-1979-Suzuki-GS550-Kevlar-Front-Brake-Pads_p_24404.html

Also, is partzilla.com a trust worthy place to order from? I like that they list all different parts for each system in the bike, but I'm not sure if there's a better kit I can buy somewhere or not, there is a whole lot of information out there on parts, I"m trying to parse it all, but it's a time consuming process.

**At least I think it's a B. The title doesn't really list a model number, and it only says GS550 in the VIN.

 

[Nessism]

Parts outlaw is one of the forum favorite places to order parts. You might want to check their prices against partzilla before ordering.

Get new seals for the caliper and a master cylinder kit. And don't forget to replace the brake line. Do a full system tear down and clean out. That's the only way to properly service the system.

Regarding the pads, all the various round Suzuki pads interchange. I'd look for a name brand, but that's just me. You might want to check ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Brake-P...979-/371048196454?hash=item5664322966&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Suzuki-...657-/301183401109?hash=item461fedfc95&vxp=mtr

 

[Guest]

Thanks Nessism.

As for a master cylinder kit, are they universal? Would it be better to buy the exact part number like this?

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/59600-33810/-piston-cup-set

Or could I save a few bucks and get something like this to integrate?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-BRAKE...00-/361301642444?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

I'm not afraid to spend the extra money if it's the better option, but probably like most of us I'm also a big fan of not spending the extra money if I don't have to.

 

[Nessism]

OEM brake system parts are tried and true. Sometimes the aftermarket seals/kits are okay and other times they are crap. Spending a little more on the OEM parts is money well spent in my opinion.

 

[Guest]

Getting the snap ring out of the master cylinder to remove the piston is proving to be a lot harder than any of the youtube videos made it look. I bought a snap ring pliers but of course it won't fit in to the cylinder far enough to actually use it. I was able to get a little movement using a couple long screws and the rage of a thousand suns, but now it's stuck. Am I going to end up having to spend money on the entire master cylinder enclosure or is there some way to get this out that I just can't see?

 

[Eli69]

there are extra long, angled clip squeezer tools. i need some too. z1enterprises sells them. http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Internal+Circlip+Pliers+Motion+Pro&item=TU15-8279

 

[Guest]

Thanks, those look like they could work. I'll have to order some if I can't find someone locally that has a pair.

 

[steve murdoch]

A cheaper method is grinding down the points of a set of needle nose pliers.
Start with a set with long, slim jaws. They are usually fairly cheap at Harbour Freight.

 

[Guest]

Once I got another set of hands involved I was able to get the clip out using a couple of stronger picks. Used an air compressor to pop the stuck piston out of the caliper. Still in process of cleaning everything as good as I can, but now i'm just waiting for all the replacement plastic bits and the master cylinder piston and I'll get it all put back together. A huge thanks to all that chimed in here, it was a huge help.

 

[Nessism]

You ordered a new brake line too right?

 

[Guest]

Yes, both front brake lines, the master cylinder piston cup set, new brake pads, and replacements for all plastic parts in the master cylinder/reservoir and caliper.

Once I get this all back together I should probably do the same for the rear brakes, they're probably in similar condition.

 

[Nessism]

You are going to need some heavy black moly caliper grease for the sliding pin(s) too. The black Permatex stuff that comes in a red labeled bottle is good. Don't use the clear caliper grease stuff. That stuff is thin and too runny.

 

[Guest]

I did pick up a small bottle of what was labeled, I believe, caliper grease. I won't be able to get more details from it until I get home, but I'll check it out and make sure it's the moly grease and pick some up if it's not. Thanks!

 

[Guest]

I received all the parts I needed to replace the brake lines and rebuild the caliper and master cylinder, got everything installed and in place, and I'm getting no brake fluid leaving the master cylinder.

I think I put the master cylinder spring in correctly, but I'm not sure. Is the boot side of the spring supposed to go in the cylinder first, or is the open side of the spring supposed to go in first? (I know, noob mistake, I should have taken a picture of that, it's like the only thing I missed when I took pics of the tear down). I tried both ways and I still can't get fluid to leave the reservoir. With the boot side in first I get what looks like air bubbles in the reservoir when I pull the brake lever, but nothing leaves the cylinder, with the open side in first I get no air bubbles in the reservoir, but I can feel air pulling in and out on the end of the brake lines, which I can't feel the other way.

Is the return hole still clogged? I've doused it with brake cleaner, run wires as far in as they will go (which isn't far). I'm not sure what else to try...

 

[Guest]

It can be difficult. I had to use a vacuum pump to fill the lines before I could get it to start working. The return hole could still be clogged because it doesn't take much to clog it but don't jump to that conclusion before you get fluid in the lines and the system back together and bled. If the hole is clogged it works one way pumping fluid to the brake cylinders and eventually the lever will have no slack in it at all. I don't think you will get any return action until the system is full.

 

[Guest]

It can be difficult. I had to use a vacuum pump to fill the lines before I could get it to start working. The return hole could still be clogged because it doesn't take much to clog it but don't jump to that conclusion before you get fluid in the lines and the system back together and bled. If the hole is clogged it works one way pumping fluid to the brake cylinders and eventually the lever will have no slack in it at all. I don't think you will get any return action until the system is full.

That makes sense regarding the return hole. Any idea which way the master cylinder spring goes into the cylinder? Open end in first or boot end in first? Once I'm certain I have that back together right I'll try to find someone with a vacuum pump.

 

[Nessism]

If you can find a piece of clear tubing put it on one of the caliper nipples and suck on it with your mouth to draw fluid out of the master reservoir and into the pumping cylinder. Obviously, watch the clear tubing to make sure you are not about to draw fluid into your mouth.

Bubbles should raise out of the small return port hole. No bubbles indicate the hole is plugged or fluid is not getting down into the piston.