Electrical woes - 1980 GS1000G

[Guest]

I've suddenly begun blowing the 'Signals and Headlight" fuses on my 1980 GS-1000G (shaft). Since it happened while two up and within a few miles of home, I first thought perhaps the suspension movement was pinching a wire, but so far I haven't found anything like that. I began investigating the wiring harness, and discovered that someone had been in there before me since several sections of it were wrapped in electrical tape. The bike had a Vetter Fairing with built-in turn signals, which I removed and replaced with the stock headlight and turn signals. All was well all these years. I bought the bike in 1993 and it currently has 190,000kms, but the engine was 'refreshed' at 110,000 kms. While checking things out I noticed the wire from the fuse box to the starter solenoid was getting warm. The metal clips on the right side of the fuse panel that hold the fuses into place was also getting warm enough to burn my finger. Perhaps my problem is not a wire being pinched but somewhere a wire shorting out and creating heat which eventually blows the fuses. I'd appreciate any insights you have to help me track down this elusive gremlin. The bike runs fine (different circuits), but no headlight/taillight or turn signals. HELP !

[posplayr]

I've suddenly begun blowing the 'Signals and Headlight" fuses on my 1980 GS-1000G (shaft). Since it happened while two up and within a few miles of home, I first thought perhaps the suspension movement was pinching a wire, but so far I haven't found anything like that. I began investigating the wiring harness, and discovered that someone had been in there before me since several sections of it were wrapped in electrical tape. The bike had a Vetter Fairing with built-in turn signals, which I removed and replaced with the stock headlight and turn signals. All was well all these years. I bought the bike in 1993 and it currently has 190,000kms, but the engine was 'refreshed' at 110,000 kms. While checking things out I noticed the wire from the fuse box to the starter solenoid was getting warm. The metal clips on the right side of the fuse panel that hold the fuses into place was also getting warm enough to burn my finger. Perhaps my problem is not a wire being pinched but somewhere a wire shorting out and creating heat which eventually blows the fuses. I'd appreciate any insights you have to help me track down this elusive gremlin. The bike runs fine (different circuits), but no headlight/taillight or turn signals. HELP !

Get a can of DeOxit and spray around the fusebox and all connectors.

[azr]

Yes it sure sounds like you need to go thru every connector/fuse box and grounds. It'll take you a few hours but is worth the reward, besides you'll be bound to get another 100'000km out of her. DeOxit is the best, don't waste you money on anything else, that and a bit of sandpaper an you're good to go.

[Kilowop]

I've already taken apart all connectors, cleaned with contact cleaner and sand papered where I could. Used dialectic grease upon reassembly. I had a couple of the multi wire connectors up under the fuel tank replaced as they were warped from the heat after 35 years. One actually fell apart when I separated the two sections. I've had the fuse panel apart and could find no corrosion, and the continuity was fine across the wires. I used contact cleaner on the handlebar switches as well. I have some spare handlebar switches so perhaps I should substitute them and see if the problem goes away.

[posplayr]

While checking things out I noticed the wire from the fuse box to the starter solenoid was getting warm. The metal clips on the right side of the fuse panel that hold the fuses into place was also getting warm enough to burn my finger. !

Before going on any alternate excursions, I would solve this problem now.

First do a "quick test" to make sure you are not overcharging and have a sense of how bad your charging connections are. You can report them here for a diagnosis.

Unless you have a short somewhere, the heat you describe is due to resistance. That resistance is probably in dirty crimps. It is also apparent that despite your diligence in keeping your bike maintenance up to date, your methods and products are failing you.

I'm guessing you have a glass bulb type fusebox with a pigtail on it. These are chronically becoming corroded sufficiently to overheat. I would suggest removing the fuse box in order to clean it effectively.

after removal

1. Pry the back off
2. Apply liberal amounts of Naval Jelly to the back and all connectors and crimps let sit for 15min.
3. Wash off with water and (blow) dry
4. If necessary repeat, you want nice clean and shiny copper/brass.
5. Please refrain from using any sandpaper of any grit .
6. Flow Solder into the crimps. The picture below is not focused but shows traces of solder that was flowed into the crimps. It would help to have some flux to make sure the solder flows without overheating the plastic.
7. Spray the inside with DeOxit and let dry.
8. Reinstall the fuse box and retest using a voltmeter to measure voltage drops (NOT ohmmeter). You can use a dab of dielectric grease on the glass fuses or just spray them with the DeOxit.
9. Redo the Quick test report for cleaning voltages.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is what I use and I know it works.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Corrosive-Conductive-residue/dp/B008UH4DT4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1433270466&sr=8-13&keywords=flux

[Kilowop]

I got frustrated and swapped out the entire fuse box for another one good one I had in my spares box. Problem solved I thought. Went for a lengthy test ride with speeds up to 120-130 kph (70 - 80 mph), ran the tach up to 7-8 grand thru the gears. All went well, and no fuses blew and every component worked as it should. Then I went two up and didn't get more than a couple blocks and FRAZZZZ, no headlight, no tail light, no turn signals. What ever the problem is, it must be located near the rear of the bike and occurred when two up. I spent HOURS last night looking for a bare wire, pinched wire, broken wire. NADA. I substituted a spare battery with alligator clips and tested each component and moved, wiggled, stretched, every wire but nothing obvious was found as turn signals continued to work, tail light/headlight/brake light all worked as they should. So, I used a few yards of electrical tape and re-covered every wire i could reach. I'll try another test ride, leaving the side cover and fuse box cover off, then stop every few miles and feel for heat at the fuse box. Does anyone know of a source for a new or replica wiring harness for this bike?? The salvage yard harnesses are no better, and often worse than what is on the bike.
CHEERS

[azr]

Geez talk about ****ty luck. There's got to be a wire grounding somewhere for sure but talk about not being able to find it. Wish I had a good spare for you, that would probably solve it.

[gustovh]

Let me check the harness off my 80 1000G and see if it is any good.
I visited Kamloops once, I dove in the river during the salmon run, really cool.

[gustovh]

I dug into my box, the harness has been hacked, 4 wires cut. You are welcome to it if you want.

V

[Ron Moropito]

So far I have replaced, repaired numerous suspect wires. At the moment the bike runs well, and everything works, except the left turn signals. I have noticed a strange noise emanating from the signal flasher unit. It clicks on right turns, as it should, but on left turns, it makes strange buzzing noises. The automatic signal cancelling function works on the right turns, but since left turns don't work, i'm not sure if there is a problem there. The OEM Suzuki Flasher unit is listed at $90 CDN, a bit beyond my budget at the moment. I will keep riding it and just use hand signals for left turns until I find a substitute flasher, or can afford a new one. Thanks for all your suggestions. I love this old tank as I've had it since 1993 when I bought it from the original owner. Considering the age, and mileage, I guess a few electrical issues are to be expected. It's a rider, not a trailer Queen
CHEERS

[posplayr]

I posted a sim0ple solution to modify your connection between the TSCU and the flasher to use a industry standards LED flasher; See the bottom of the page.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218717-Harness-Installed-TSCU-MOD-for-LED-Conversions&highlight=TSCU

[azr]

Can't the signal flashers be replaced with a simple, inexpensive, 12V flasher from Can Tire? And if the TSCU has failed there's a simple fix with 2 relays somewhere on the site here. You won't have your auto cancel anymore of course though.

[posplayr]

Can't the signal flashers be replaced with a simple, inexpensive, 12V flasher from Can Tire? And if the TSCU has failed there's a simple fix with 2 relays somewhere on the site here. You won't have your auto cancel anymore of course though.

Well I'm guessing you might be write but op wanted hie TSCU to work.

[Ron Moropito]

I had a spare Flasher unit with the correct 3 prong connector (from a Yamaha) but it didn't work. A friend has an auto salvage business and has a box of flasher units he's going to look through and see if any are 3 prong and we'll try substituting them and see if anything works. Since that left turn signal is the only issue (at least for the time being) I'm riding the bike occasionally and using hand signals when necessary. In the meantime, I'm using my other Suzukis on rides, an '05 Burgman 650 Super Scooter, and an '06 V-Strom 650 I recently acquired. I love my Suzukis.

[azr]

I'd be more than happy to send you out a working used flasher, but really Canadian Tire has them for $5 dollars.