Starting issue

[JTGS850GL]

Might just want to borrow another meter and redo the tests with something other then a $10 DVM.

Need to see the static ohm measurements for each leg segment and for each leg to ground. Also re-measure the AC @ 5k RPM tests and record the measurements again for each segment as well. This is not about making just one measurement and being done.

[kylemanley1]

On 200ohm scale I'm showing 01.2 when I do leg to ground on 2000k on frame I'm getting 000. And dynamic test on ac 200 I'm getting 68 at the highest but numbers jump around

[posplayr]

On 200ohm scale I'm showing 01.2 when I do leg to ground on 2000k on frame I'm getting 000. And dynamic test on ac 200 I'm getting 68 at the highest but numbers jump around

So what's the problem? Probably a crappy meter.

[kylemanley1]

Going to head to autozone and get a new meter now

[kylemanley1]

Might just want to borrow another meter and redo the tests with something other then a $10 DVM.

Need to see the static ohm measurements for each leg segment and for each leg to ground. Also re-measure the AC @ 5k RPM tests and record the measurements again for each segment as well. This is not about making just one measurement and being done.

So with the new auto ranging meter I bought numbers are as follows:
Static ohm measurement each leg- 00.8 ( started at 0 and climbed to that and stopped)

Each leg to ground:
1st leg- 01.0
2nd leg- 00.2
3rd leg- 00.8

Ac volts @5k rpm
Leg 1-2 69v
Leg 1-3 67.8v
Leg 3-2 68v

[posplayr]

What does the ohm meter read when you touch the two test leads together?
Also the most important test would have been leg to ground VAC at 5000 rpm.
Do a quick test and report those numbers it sounds like you will see marginal charging except at perhaps 5k rpm.
if it is shorted as indicated you might not get anything.

[JTGS850GL]

So with the new auto ranging meter I bought numbers are as follows:
Static ohm measurement each leg- 00.8 ( started at 0 and climbed to that and stopped)

Each leg to ground:
1st leg- 01.0
2nd leg- 00.2
3rd leg- 00.8

Ac volts @5k rpm
Leg 1-2 69v
Leg 1-3 67.8v
Leg 3-2 68v

I'm thinking you really don't understand the correct way to make the static and dynamic measurements. Do this:

1st: Disconnect all three stator wires from the R/R.
2nd: Mark each of the three stator wires 1 through 3. It doesn't matter what wire is what number.
3rd: Put your ohm meter on the 200 scale. Measure and record the readings between the following wires:
1-2=
2-3=
1-3=
4th: Measure record each of the stator wires to ground resistance now using the 2000K range.
1-Gnd=
2-Gnd=
3-Gnd=
5th: Measure and record the AC open voltage from each stator leg 1 through 3 to ground using the 200V AC scale. Start the engine and rev to 5K RPMs. While maintaining 5K measure each leg to ground.
1-Gnd=
2-Gnd=
3-Gnd=

Report back your results.

PS: Buy a new meter.

[kylemanley1]

When ibtouch test leads together I get numbers jumping around from 00.1- 01.5. This is on my new $30 auto ranging meter

[posplayr]

If you read the manual it will probably tell you to push a button to auto calibrate zero ohms. Once you read zero with the probes together (do not touch the metal yourself) then do the measurements again.

To be sure, you have to have a certain level of expertise in things electrical to not get yourself confused with an ohm meter. You would be better to go back to the Quick Test and report those numbers as it will probably give a better idea as it is hard to screw that up.

We can go from there if something seems a miss. What you are experiencing is the exact reason I developed the Quick Test Procedure and it happens over and over again trying to measure a stator.

[JTGS850GL]

Make sure the test leads are clean. There might be, as Posplayer said, a zeroing button.

[kylemanley1]

I read all through the manual and can't find anything on how to zero out the ohms. I did however perform the quick test after bike had been recharged from trickle charger.
Key off 13.3
Key on 12.2
Idle 12.32
2500 rpm 12.45
5k rpm 12.45
Key off 12.5

[posplayr]

I read all through the manual and can't find anything on how to zero out the ohms. I did however perform the quick test after bike had been recharged from trickle charger.
Key off 13.3
Key on 12.2
Idle 12.32
2500 rpm 12.45
5k rpm 12.45
Key off 12.5

OK you clearly have a problem and it doesn't seem to have changed since you swapped out the stator and I don't see as you changed the R/R. Can this be one of the 14 v.s. 18 pole stator issues that the 550's have?

I would say to remeasure the VAC leg to ground tests (with R/R disconnected) to see if you get zero.

If you have an old shunt R/R do the basic diode test and if that is good then the stator is just plain not charging. Poles wrong or shorted.

[kylemanley1]

I haven't upgraded R/R

[posplayr]

I haven't upgraded R/R

Do the diode portion of the tests Phase C (for classic SHUNT only)so we can rule that out.

[kylemanley1]

Do the diode portion of the tests Phase C (for classic SHUNT only)so we can rule that out.

I find that test in the stator papers right?