1100EZ check panel lights and does not work in neutral

[Guest]

Have just re-commissioned an 82 1100EZ but having electrical problems. With the ignition switched on; the neutral light, oil pressure light and side stand light are on; nothing else electrical works (the oil temp gauge shows high?). If I put the bike in gear, the neutral light goes out and with the clutch pulled in I can start the bike and the indicators, headlamp etc work. Once neutral is selected all dies again. The other check panel lights are a bit haphazard. I have checked all wires and connectors and repaired any that were worn/damaged and all the wiring is as per the wiring diagram in the manual. Could it be the check panel control unit that sits under the top frame tube near the back of the fuel tank? I did also read that a faulty oil pressure switch can affect the check panel? Any advise would be appreciated.

[posplayr]

Have just re-commissioned an 82 1100EZ but having electrical problems. With the ignition switched on; the neutral light, oil pressure light and side stand light are on; nothing else electrical works (the oil temp gauge shows high?). If I put the bike in gear, the neutral light goes out and with the clutch pulled in I can start the bike and the indicators, headlamp etc work. Once neutral is selected all dies again. The other check panel lights are a bit haphazard. I have checked all wires and connectors and repaired any that were worn/damaged and all the wiring is as per the wiring diagram in the manual. Could it be the check panel control unit that sits under the top frame tube near the back of the fuel tank? I did also read that a faulty oil pressure switch can affect the check panel? Any advise would be appreciated.

29 questions:
1.) Is the bike is Neutral, Engine off and Kick Stand down when you see the Neutral light on, with engine off and kickstand light on.
2.) Does that mean the coils do not have power?
3.) Your bike starts and runs in gear but dies in Neutral; Is the power to the coils/ignitor going away?


I'll stop there.

[tom203]

Me, i'd start with disconnecting oil pressure sender and then then the kickstand switch and see if it starts behaving more normal. So you got the wiring diagrqm from manual, have you stumbled across this colored version from Basscliff's site?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GS1100G_1982_wiring.jpg

[posplayr]

Me, i'd start with disconnecting oil pressure sender and then then the kickstand switch and see if it starts behaving more normal. So you got the wiring diagrqm from manual, have you stumbled across this colored version from Basscliff's site?
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...982_wiring.jpg

If I had to guess I would say the check panel is bonkers but the OP has described too many things attributable to just the check panel, but offhand I can't think of anything that would explain the vast assortment of ailments.

[Rob S.]

My oil, high beam, neutral, and turn signal indicators work. My battery light is on all the time because I have a regular battery installed. My side stand indicator doesn't work and it doesn't concern me.

My head lamp, tail lamp and stop lamp indicators go on and off whenever they feel like it. But since the lights themselves work properly, I live with it.

Listen to Posplayr. He's the go-to electrical guy around here.



You didn't mention how or if the bike runs. You know, the engine, wheels, clutch?

[posplayr]

I have not refreshed my memory (with the manual) but as I recall the oil pressure light ground is used to put the check panel into a light bulb test mode. All idiot lights go on with the switch grounded.

I'm rewiringing my idiot lights and going to put flashing RED led's in on OIL and SIDESTAND. I think those two probably still deserve to be maintained operational. Most of the remaining RED warning lamps I'm repurposing. It was only recently that I realized that my tail light and brake light warning circuit was not working anyway.

So I guess I answered my first question, All Warning lights should come on with key on as per the check panel design

My oil, high beam, neutral, and turn signal indicators work. My battery light is on all the time because I have a regular battery installed. My side stand indicator doesn't work and it doesn't concern me.

My head lamp, tail lamp and stop lamp indicators go on and off whenever they feel like it. But since the lights themselves work properly, I live with it.

Listen to Posplayr. He's the go-to electrical guy around here.



You didn't mention how or if the bike runs. You know, the engine, wheels, clutch?

[Peter180]

posplayr,

The bike is in neutral with engine off and kick stand down (however with the kickstand up I get the same results). With the ignition turned on I get the Oil, side stand and neutral light showing but no other electrics on the bike work including the starter, coils etc.
When I put the bike in gear, the oil, battery, side stand, headlight, tail light and stop light panel lights are on and the engine will start and run and the indicators, horn etc work. When I put the bike back into neutral, the engine dies (no power to the ignition circuit) all other electrics stop working (indicators etc) and the panel lights again just show neutral,side stand and oil.
It all seems to have a crazy mind of its own. If you could suggest a check methodology that would be useful. I will try post a photo of the panel lights to show the situations above.
I have tried with the oil pressure and oil temp switches isolated and with the kick stand switch isolated but neither make any difference.??

[Peter180]

Panel pic in netral

posplayr,

The bike is in neutral with engine off and kick stand down (however with the kickstand up I get the same results). With the ignition turned on I get the Oil, side stand and neutral light showing but no other electrics on the bike work including the starter, coils etc.
When I put the bike in gear, the oil, battery, side stand, headlight, tail light and stop light panel lights are on and the engine will start and run and the indicators, horn etc work. When I put the bike back into neutral, the engine dies (no power to the ignition circuit) all other electrics stop working (indicators etc) and the panel lights again just show neutral,side stand and oil.
It all seems to have a crazy mind of its own. If you could suggest a check methodology that would be useful. I will try post a photo of the panel lights to show the situations above.
I have tried with the oil pressure and oil temp switches isolated and with the kick stand switch isolated but neither make any difference.??

Panel picture in neutral

[Peter180]

Panel pic in gear

Panel picture in neutral

Panel pic in gear

[qcktvr]

Hi Peter,
My 84 1150 had the issue of random warning lights, I posted here on June 18th re how I solved by following an old post and removing the monitoring unit; I have no idea though if the 1100s use that same black box, but it is good not to be bothered by them!
I am more of a mechanical type, but the other issue you have sounds as if it should be fairly easy to resolve; maybe you already have?
What made you try to start it in gear, that sounds creative and could point you to see if the neutral indicator circuit is the culprit for killing the ignition?
Good luck

[posplayr]

posplayr,

The bike is in neutral with engine off and kick stand down (however with the kickstand up I get the same results). With the ignition turned on I get the Oil, side stand and neutral light showing but no other electrics on the bike work including the starter, coils etc.
When I put the bike in gear, the oil, battery, side stand, headlight, tail light and stop light panel lights are on and the engine will start and run and the indicators, horn etc work. When I put the bike back into neutral, the engine dies (no power to the ignition circuit) all other electrics stop working (indicators etc) and the panel lights again just show neutral,side stand and oil.
It all seems to have a crazy mind of its own. If you could suggest a check methodology that would be useful. I will try post a photo of the panel lights to show the situations above.
I have tried with the oil pressure and oil temp switches isolated and with the kick stand switch isolated but neither make any difference.??

Start right there(see underlined bold), failure to power O/W has nothing to do with the check panel.
Failure to power Y/G ==>solenoid has nothing to do with the check panel. If you check your schematic you will see that O/W does power Y/G so those two are at least probably related.

It sound like you have a melted fuse box. For any further help you are now required to show a picture of your fuse box with the cover open!

[Peter180]

Hi Peter,
My 84 1150 had the issue of random warning lights, I posted here on June 18th re how I solved by following an old post and removing the monitoring unit; I have no idea though if the 1100s use that same black box, but it is good not to be bothered by them!
I am more of a mechanical type, but the other issue you have sounds as if it should be fairly easy to resolve; maybe you already have?
What made you try to start it in gear, that sounds creative and could point you to see if the neutral indicator circuit is the culprit for killing the ignition?
Good luck

Thanks for the tip. It was just by luck that I put the bike in gear and tried the starter. The bike does have a black box control unit that sits under the top frame tube under the fuel tank. I'll not have time until the weekend but will start to isolate and check each of the circuits related to the check panel starting with the neutral light.

[Peter180]

Start right there(see underlined bold), failure to power O/W has nothing to do with the check panel.
Failure to power Y/G ==>solenoid has nothing to do with the check panel. If you check your schematic you will see that O/W does power Y/G so those two are at least probably related.

It sound like you have a melted fuse box. For any further help you are now required to show a picture of your fuse box with the cover open!

The fuse box seems ok, see picture. Will check the O/W and Y/G

[posplayr]

The fuse box seems ok, see picture. Will check the O/W and Y/G

No doesn't look melted. I would still clean it. You can completely immerse it in naval jelly (it is relatively mild but will strip off all corrosion) and wash it out with water after about 15 minutes. Then spray with deoxit(it leaves a protective corrosion resistant surface).

You are just going to have to track down where you're losing your O/W. Start right at the fuse box Ignition fuse. The ends of the fuses are open so you can poke for Volts.

[Peter180]

No doesn't look melted. I would still clean it. You can completely immerse it in naval jelly (it is relatively mild but will strip off all corrosion) and wash it out with water after about 15 minutes. Then spray with deoxit(it leaves a protective corrosion resistant surface).

You are just going to have to track down where you're losing your O/W. Start right at the fuse box Ignition fuse. The ends of the fuses are open so you can poke for Volts.

I will get hold of the products you recommend and give it a try. Away on holiday for a few weeks, so the project will have to wait until I come back. Interestingly I have had a closer check around the fuses and discovered that:
With the top fuse OR and second fuse OG removed the panel lights are all showing very dim and the black box (check panel control unit) hums. Also, the starter and ignition only work when the bike is in gear?
Suggests that there is some leakage between OW and OG either at the fuse box or elsewhere on the loom?

thanks for help so far. Will post how I get on with the fuse box after hols.