'82 850 blowing fuses after new installation

[Guest]

Hi all

After installing a new speedometer and tachometer, I have been blowing fuses left and right. I have all the wires hooked up correctly because the lights on the speedo/tach will work, but will soon blow countless fuses. Any ideas?

[Steve]

Sorry, but the speedo and tach lights only verify two fuse positions, the MAIN fuse and the LIGHTS fuse.

The other two fuses are SIGNALS and IGNITION.

The SIGNALS fuse powers the neutral light, the oil pressure light and the fuel gauge, all of which have wires that go through the instrument panel.
The IGNITION fuse powers the coils and the ignitor, and also provides power to the starter solenoid, those wires go through the headlight bucket and might have been bothered by wiring in the instrument panel.

Exactly which fuses are getting blown, and when are they blowing?
Do they blow as soon as they are installed or do they wait for you to turn the key ON?
If it's the IGNITION fuse that blows, does it happen with the 'kill' switch in the OFF position?

If you blow a fuse, then simply replace the fuse and wonder why it blows again, I hope you have a GOOD budget for fuses.
Following some systematic troubleshooting, as I have outlined above, should get you thinking in a logical manner and will get it solved rather quickly.

.

[posplayr]

Hi all

After installing a new speedometer and tachometer, I have been blowing fuses left and right. I have all the wires hooked up correctly because the lights on the speedo/tach will work, but will soon blow countless fuses. Any ideas?

Well at least you are not blowing fuses Up and Down; they you will be real trouble.

[Brendan W]

I'm doing something wrong. Mine blow near the middle generally.

[posplayr]

I'm doing something wrong. Mine blow near the middle generally.

Then you obviously did not check your grounds.

[Brendan W]

Then you obviously did not check your grounds.

So that's what single point means. Everyday is a school day.

[nkalinski]

So the top two fuses are the ones that are being blown. They happen when I turn the key to the ON position and the kill switch is off. I don't know much about electronics but is it possible to put a higer amp fuse in place of the ones being blown?

[Brendan W]

So the top two fuses are the ones that are being blown. They happen when I turn the key to the ON position and the kill switch is off. I don't know much about electronics but is it possible to put a higer amp fuse in place of the ones being blown?

Bad idea. The fuse is there to protect the rest of the electrical system. The top fuse is headlights and should be 10A. The second is turn and stop lamps, gauges and horns, it's also suppose to be 10A. The third is ignition, 10A. The fourth is the main fuse , 15A. There may be a fifth or at least a slot for a fifth for extra equipment.
Check that you have 10A fuses.
Given the recent work on the clocks the problem most likely in there somewhere. Possible things too bunched up in the headlight.
Another place both these supplies have in common is left handlebar switch assembly. I would look there hoping to find trapped wires. If that doesn't do it you are into tracing each circuit. Not as difficult as it sounds - after all they are colour coded
Speaking of which http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/80GS850GT_wiring_color-new.png