Please confirm I need a new R/R and stator.

[Brendan W]

Bike suddenly stopped charging. Had been good, topping out at 14.5 and keeping the battery at 12.5. SPG organised and all new connections. Drops in + and - leads about 0.1V. I'd say I check it every month.
Now today the neutral lamp dimmed too much when I put the headlight on just before heading out.
Stator between legs 1.5 Ohm
Stator legs to case 1.5 - 0.5 Ohm
Hardly seems worthwhile checking the AC output of the stator. Maybe I will when the battery recharges.
R/R , open cct between each pairing of all five wires in both directions. Can't get a resistance anywhere. Can that be right?

When they go they really go ?

Both units look to be replacement used parts. I'm headed for a series r/r then and where's the best spot for a stator?

[tom203]

Get the series SH-775 if you can- it will protect your new stator. I'd had good luck with ebay used stators. I let my gut decide if it appears BBQ in glamour shots. The ES stators are a good choice when matched with a series r/r. Caltric has stators for about $50 delivered in USA. Basscliff is or was using one.

[chuck hahn]

Charger the battery and do the stator wire cross checking. If all three legs have good AC voltage then youve eliminated that. Which in turn leaves the regulator. There are only 3 major components...so if the battery is relatively new and has normally performed correctly its most likely the regulator has gone south.

[posplayr]

You can't eliminate the stator without a full load test even then it could still be bad.

Do the quick test in my signature snd post the results .

[Brendan W]

You can't eliminate the stator without a full load test even then it could still be bad.

Do the quick test in my signature snd post the results .

I would have thought that with 1 ohm between stator legs and case it was toast.

First thing I did was the quick test. It was very quick.

Key off 11.8
Idling 11.9
5000 rpm 12.0

Didn't bother looking at drop with load and motor stopped. May have another problem. The main fuse had blown when I went to restart to check the stator AC output after recharging the battery. It's possible it wasn't 15A. It's illegible. In retrospect I may have had this problem for the last few days. Maybe it's not used to so much current.
Too many things at once.

[posplayr]

I would have thought that with 1 ohm between stator legs and case it was toast.

First thing I did was the quick test. It was very quick.

Key off 11.8
Idling 11.9
5000 rpm 12.0

Didn't bother looking at drop with load and motor stopped. May have another problem. The main fuse had blown when I went to restart to check the stator AC output after recharging the battery. It's possible it wasn't 15A. It's illegible. In retrospect I may have had this problem for the last few days. Maybe it's not used to so much current.
Too many things at once.

If the ohm readings left to leg readings are all the same then you know nothing. If they were way different thenne maybe your could blame the stator.
You battery is low and it is entirely possible the charging system just cant pull it up.

If you can't be bothered to do the full "quick test" why bother?

[posplayr]

Bike suddenly stopped charging. Had been good, topping out at 14.5 and keeping the battery at 12.5. SPG organised and all new connections. Drops in + and - leads about 0.1V. I'd say I check it every month.
Now today the neutral lamp dimmed too much when I put the headlight on just before heading out.
Stator between legs 1.5 Ohm
Stator legs to case 1.5 - 0.5 Ohm
Hardly seems worthwhile checking the AC output of the stator. Maybe I will when the battery recharges.
R/R , open cct between each pairing of all five wires in both directions. Can't get a resistance anywhere. Can that be right?

When they go they really go ?

Both units look to be replacement used parts. I'm headed for a series r/r then and where's the best spot for a stator?

This measurement (if you did it correctly) does suggest the stator is bad. Sorry too many people doing too many measurements when only one in the whole group mattered. The Quick test is a sanity check that is hard to screw up or at least it is hard for me to be fooled by strange measurements.

[Brendan W]

Opened the generator and found three bullet connections, two of which had fried. How did I miss them? I've had that open before to replace the shims on the intermediate starter gear. On the bright side the stator now looks good. No shorts to case and 0.8 ohm leg to leg. Any suggestions on where to go from here? The damage is local to the bullet connectors. The yellow wire looks more suited to turn signals.

[Brendan W]

The rewired stator is producing 75V AC on all three legs at 5000. Voltage at the battery is static at about 13 ( just off charger).

[JTGS850GL]

You don't want any connections under that cover. I'd cut back those stator wires back to clean wire and solder new wires onto them long enough to reach the R/R with a little room to spare. Use heatshrink tubing over the soldered sections. Make sure you have enough heatshrink to overlap the soldered section by at least 1/2" on each side. Make sure your soldered sections are smooth. No cold soldering. I use a butane fuel soldering iron for these types of jobs.

[Brendan W]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.
We're just back from an hour test ride and everything looks ok for the moment.
I got a good looking stator from a breaker yesterday as a stop gap. The new stator is outputting 60V and the leg resistances are 0.6 Ohm. With the old r/r it's maxing out at 13.6 V at the battery at 5000. I've picked up 0.35 V drop on the +ve lead from the r/r so a bit of work to do. The old stator is putting out 75V, leg resistance 0.9 Ohm and used to top out at 14.4V but the wires will need fixing before refitting it. I may have been very lucky in that both stator and r/r are still ok. I'm not out of the woods yet and I need a better meter. Plan is to get the higher output stator fixed and get a 775 r/r in there. Will keep you posted.

[Grimly]

PO did the internal crimping? Should be shot.
As said, good quality solder, with heatshrink (not cheap stuff) and fibreglass heatproof sleeving over the entire joint, with the aim to keep it as slim as possible so it will fit nicely in the original run - there's not a lot of room for error in there when it's all together, and the cable must follow the original path. Bit of local knowledge - if you're stuck for heatproof connecting wire, salvage the 3 or 4 core cable from an immersion heater (heat rated higher than it will see inside that casing) and use the coloured cores from that if you have to. More than one of my stators is outputting through that.

[posplayr]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.
We're just back from an hour test ride and everything looks ok for the moment.
I got a good looking stator from a breaker yesterday as a stop gap. The new stator is outputting 60V and the leg resistances are 0.6 Ohm. With the old r/r it's maxing out at 13.6 V at the battery at 5000. I've picked up 0.35 V drop on the +ve lead from the r/r so a bit of work to do. The old stator is putting out 75V, leg resistance 0.9 Ohm and used to top out at 14.4V but the wires will need fixing before refitting it. I may have been very lucky in that both stator and r/r are still ok. I'm not out of the woods yet and I need a better meter. Plan is to get the higher output stator fixed and get a 775 r/r in there. Will keep you posted.

Yes you probably have drops on the ground side as well.

[Brendan W]

Yes you probably have drops on the ground side as well.

More than likely but my old meter isn't picking it up. Cleaning the fusebox multiplug has reduced the + side drop to 0.25V. I suspect the fusebox and the old bullet connector have to go. I would prefer not to go direct to the bat +ve with the r/r output.
I am seeing 14V at the battery now at idle falling to 13.5 at 5000 but my total measured lead drop is only 0.25V at 5000. Stator leg to leg is 60V, leg to ground 0V. I won't be going too far from base for a while yet
Reading back over your previous posts is a goldmine. I don't think it can be said often enough , thank you for sharing.
Maybe I'm the last to know but the Polaris p/n 4012941 which I thought was a SH775 now appears to be a MOSFET shunt r/r with overtemp cutoff.

[posplayr]

More than likely but my old meter isn't picking it up. Cleaning the fusebox multiplug has reduced the + side drop to 0.25V. I suspect the fusebox and the old bullet connector have to go. I would prefer not to go direct to the bat +ve with the r/r output.
I am seeing 14V at the battery now at idle falling to 13.5 at 5000 but my total measured lead drop is only 0.25V at 5000. Stator leg to leg is 60V, leg to ground 0V. I won't be going too far from base for a while yet
Reading back over your previous posts is a goldmine. I don't think it can be said often enough , thank you for sharing.
Maybe I'm the last to know but the Polaris p/n 4012941 which I thought was a SH775 now appears to be a MOSFET shunt r/r with overtemp cutoff.

If your fuse box is in decent shape you should be able to reduce your voltages down under 0.05-0.10V. If you have a glass fuse type fuse box, with a wire pigtail on it then there are crimps inside of the fuse box. I use something like naval jelly to soak it and then flow some solder into those crimps. You might need some electronics flux but that will really drop the resistance. Yes a bullet connector inline with the battery is not the greatest unless you can clean the crimps and use dielectric grease on the contact after a good clean.

The base of Naval Jelly is :Phosphoric acid, but it is mild. I use this for the deep clean and the Deoxit primarily for its metal treatment properties to prevent further oxidation of the bare stripped copper/brass. With solder in the crimps there is much less to worry about..

There are only a limited number of connections between the R/R and the battery. For example ignition switch resistance is not effecting the charging voltage.

The main areas to check are:

1. Fusebox,
2. any primary wire connections
3. Your grounding the SPG minimizes sensitivity to charging currents and therefore will minimize the voltage drops.
4. The "T". That is inside the harness. There is a crimp connecting the fused battery to the R/R output (all RED 16 AWG). It is basically copper crimp. It could get dirty. I have opened up my harnesses and cleaned and soldered those. On my bike it was within 3-4" of when the R/R plug went into the harness. It is really the last thing to check.

The voltage drop you are seeing as you increase RPM is because more current is flowing and dropping more voltage.

Going back over your post you say you have 60VAC, I assume that is at 4K RPM and not 5K. Voltage is proportional to RPM.

The true series R/R from Shindingen should start with SH(=SERIES) and not FH(=MOSFET)

Glad to help and get you on the road.