82 GS750 Sudden charging woes

[Guest]

Hi all,

First off, I apologize but I'm having MAJOR trouble attaching photos to my post, why the f are we only allowed to post one picture per post? Here is the link for the rest of my pictures.

I bought my 82 GS750T a couple of months ago, with 41,xxx KM on it. I bought it from a guy who seemed to have something of a used car/bike lot going on his property, and looking back that should've been my first clue to run from the deal. But, I took the bike for a test ride, it hauled, stopped quick, and everything seemed to work on it, so I picked it up.

It originally had some sputtering problems taking off from a dead stop, it seemed that a cylinder or two weren't firing under load at very low rpms. After a little bit of fiddling, I found that the mixture screws needed adjusting, and since I've set them all and 1 and a quarter turns out, the sputtering problem has disappeared. I've since replaced the plugs in it.

I put about a thousand KM on it since purchase, including an amazing 400km camping trip with my girlfriend. The bike ran beautifully the entire time.
eBJLqdT.jpg
It wasn't long after that trip (the next time I rode it I believe) that I had some issues with it. It started up fine at home, warmed up, and I took off on my ride as normal. Stopped at the shop to pick up some chain lube, and when I head out to the parking lot, the bike won't start. It cranks, but not fast enough to catch. Luckily, the shop is at the top of a hill, so I was easily able to push start it and ride out of there.

I've parked the bike since then, as I'm sure there is something wrong with my charging system. And the more I read into it the more I realize i'm probably right. I bought a new battery, as I was unable to get my old one to fully charge on the battery tender. Performing the quick test outlined in the stator papers, my voltage across the battery terminals never goes above 12.2V, at idle, 2500 RPM, and 5000 RPM, all 12.2V.

After doing a little more looking around my bike, I found some things. (Pictures are in my linked imgur album) It appears my R/R has been replaced with one from a GS400... Is that a proper replacement? Are the R/Rs the same between the 400s and the 750s? And if not, could that be the source of my problems?

I also found that 2 of the 3 wires coming from the stator somehow had motor oil in the connectors, and it looked like 2 of the connectors had melted. So I stripped the wire back and replaced those connectors, still getting 12.2V @ 1500, 2500, & 5000 RPM. How did motor oil get on the connectors? They sit next to the battery and so far from anything lubricated...

I was going to pop the stator cover off and just have a look underneath to see what I was getting myself into, and the first bolt that I take out decided to bring the threads with it (as pictured in my album). Is that a helicoil that has already been installed, or are those the original threads from the block? Also pictured in my album is another of the stator cover bolts (still installed), notice that the part of the block that it bolts into has begun to crack. Do you think I'll easily be able to replace the stator (if that ends up being the case) given the shape of these bolts?

I'm just confused because the bike was definitely charging fine when I bought it, and after only a short while (about a month and 1000 kms), something has given out... So please, where do I go from here?

Thanks a lot for reading, and I appreciate any thoughts/advice you guys might have. Please help me move forward and get this awesome bike back on the road!


Cheers,

James

[posplayr]

I perused your post and looked at the pictures of the stator wires. here is what I think you are looking at:

Someone already worked on the bike and did a reasonable job although they probably are not a member here. I say this as they put on a higher quality spade connector than the original bullet connectors but the spades were not able to survive the currents going through them. I would guess they are just crimped and not soldered. Note recommendation to solder stator wires even if you have a good crimp. If you have a quality connector like Weather Pack, and solder the crimps to the wire ends that would be OK. This is obviously not.

The stator wires are all yellow meaning after market stator (which is 95% probability burned to a crisp). So the OEM stator is gone and at least 1 after market stator. You need a SERIES R?R for this bike. SH-775 or Compufire. See recommendations for SERIES R/R's.

The PO is not a member here as he left the headlamp loop in. It is strictly recommended to wire the stator direct to the R/R. You probably have another melted connector where your right hand switch connector is.




You need a new stator, new SERIES R/R, follow the guidelines for connections using a Single Point Ground (SPG) (see link GS Charging Health). After you do this it should not give you any more problems for teh very long life of teh bike assuming you do a little bit of maintenance keeping connection s clean..

[Milpool]

Hi posplayer,

Thanks for the reply. It's been a few months since I was able to look at my GS, I bought an SH-775 R/R, and a new stator, and when replacing the stator, cracked a couple of bolts in my engine case that go through the stator cover. After that, the bike sat for a couple of months until I was able to get someone to remove them.

That just happened today, they've been helicoiled and the stator cover is back on, A-OK. Now I'm trying to install the new R/R and it seems I have no idea what I'm doing. I bought a soldering iron and have been trying to practice making good solders, but that's proving seemingly impossible. The insulation on the wires seems to melt before the solder will.

I read through the link you gave me for GS Charging Health, and found it rather confusing. I understand that the 3 wires coming from my stator have to be connected to the 3 terminals on the left of the R/R, and then the positive battery and negative battery to the respective terminals on the R/R.

Everything else i found rather confusing. There is mention of the fuse box in your link, but I'm unsure of what I'm doing in there.

Could somebody please break these R/R connections down into slightly clearer steps for me? I'm also unclear as to how to avoid the headlamp loop. Posplayer, you also mention that I should have another melted connector where my "right hand switch connector" is, what switch connector is that, and where is it?

As well if anyone has any tips for soldering... I'm using a 60 watt iron with rosin-core solder.

I really appreciate anyone looking at this thread, I miss riding my GS! Thanks!

[posplayr]

You see to have everything correct except the theory which you can probably do without. When you wire the three stator wires direct to the R/r the w/g and w/ r become spare and unused; just tape them back. The red is connected bzck to the harness in the same place . follow the SPG instructions for grounds.

[Milpool]

I can't thank you enough for the speedy reply. I apologize for all the questions, I'm tearing my hair out over this.

1. Again, I'm confused. As you can see in the pictures linked in my original post, the only white/green and white/red wires I see have been connected together, since I've had the bike. Should they be disconnected?

2. Is there another melted connector I should look for? You said the "right hand switch", are you talking about the turn signal switch?

3. For someone who is having trouble soldering, is there any sort of crimp that is a sufficient replacement?

[Redman]

your pic




(right click on it to see the URL. THat is what you need from the hosting site to post it here.)

[Redman]

My experience is that these kind of crimp on connectors are not reliable for these stator wires.... especially if the original connectors had been overheating. THat over heating makes the wires brittle, and then these kind of crimp on are worse.

As a test and as a temporary repair, you would be better off with wire nuts, the little grey ones or maybe the little bigger blue ones.
Most folks don't like wire nuts, but it will get you bye for now.

.

[posplayr]

I annotated the picture; Wire Nuts???? I guess if you can not solder and cannot crimp and can not find any dielectric grease, and can not find a nut (blind squirrel)




Solder will no stick to corroded wires and connectors. They need to be clean. Use some DeOxit to clean the stuff up if it is oxidized. Also flux works well if you have a poor soldering iron.

Naval Jelly for bad corrosion.

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-235119-Loctite-Dissolver-8-Ounce/dp/B000C014ZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1445132972&sr=1-1&keywords=naval+jelly

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445132886&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNR01Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

[CrazyCloud]

Are you using rosin core solder, meant for electronics?-- that is what you want. What wattage is your soldering iron? I'm not sure what most use, but mine is 40W. Most important part is to get the connector/wire good and hot with the iron before you put the solder on, then touch solder to it and let it wick in. Check out youtube for some soldering videos if you haven't yet.

[posplayr]

http://www.cycleterminal.com/bullet-terminals.html

These are the most universal as you can do teh crimp and teh insulator separately.

Economy - Open Barrel Crimp Tool For 14 - 24 AWG - For Metri-pack non sealed Terminals
Made in USA - NOT recommended for 4mm Bullets and 250 AMP terminals, or any of the seal type terminals.



Crimp tool for Open Barrel Terminals - Eclipse Brand - for 10 -20 AWG
Thumb Screw for quick changing of Dies.
Compact size, Comfort Grip Handles.

[Milpool]

Thanks all for the replys. I'm using rosin core solder yes, practicing on old wire though so perhaps that is whats giving me trouble. I'll keep watching videos and keep practicing.

Pos, thanks for the annotated pic. I made one of my own to help explain what's going on. (Finally getting a hang of posting pics on these forums, i had to uncheck "Retrieve remote file and reference locally")




I've also seen mention of adding an inline fuse between the R/R (+) and the Battery (+), is that necessary?


I'm also coming to realize that fitting this gigantic SH-775 regulator with wiring harness into the original R/R's spot isn't really going to happen. Now for the fun task of relocating it...

[robertbarr]

For the stator to R/R wiring, some of us prefer to scrap the whole idea of 'terminals' altogether. What I trust are these guys, denoted 'B-49' at the very bottom of this page. Insulating the result is up to the user; I prefer a few wraps of 3M electrical tape beneath a layer of shrink tubing.

These require a decent crimp tool, but so do any other connector worth having. Then a good flow of solder. They result in a connection that is cosmetically less appealing; it's a somewhat bulky bulge. It is, however, 100% reliable, since it's physically as strong as, if not stronger than, the wires you're connecting, and it's soldered. It's permanent.

[posplayr]

I think what is going on is that you are ignoring the spoon feeding.

[Milpool]

I think what is going on is that you are ignoring the spoon feeding.

Thanks for that. I'm really trying to learn here. DC electrical is a mystery to me, and I don't have the luxury of having someone firsthand to teach me. I came to this place looking for help, and so far the community has been very helpful. Please understand I'm trying to install a Polaris R/R with a Triumph wiring harness to a 3rd party Stator on the first 4 cylinder Suzuki bike I've ever worked on. I've never done anything like this, I've already admitted I'm in over my head.

[fastbysuzuki]

Thanks for that. I'm really trying to learn here. DC electrical is a mystery to me, and I don't have the luxury of having someone firsthand to teach me. I came to this place looking for help, and so far the community has been very helpful. Please understand I'm trying to install a Polaris R/R with a Triumph wiring harness to a 3rd party Stator on the first 4 cylinder Suzuki bike I've ever worked on. I've never done anything like this, I've already admitted I'm in over my head.

Hi I have just done this using the Triumph harness, (first cut off the two small plugs) you need to carefully spit the outer tape to release the wires for their respective plugs so you now have a three pin plug with 3 black wires and a 2 plin plug with 2 brown and 2 black wires twist these together respectively so you have one brown and one black, now the three wires from the stator connect to each of the three black wires that are taped together and go to the 3 pin plug on the trumpet harness (does not matter which goes to which)
The brown wires from the trumpet harness goes to the red in the bikes harness ( the one that the old regulator red wire was connected to, described as the T in some pictures on here) the blacks that are taped to the brown that go to the two pin plug goes to the single point ground as below

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?192816-ground-wires&highlight=Single+point+ground

Wire sizes for single point ground

1. R/R(-) 14 awg.
2. Battery(-) 16 awg
3. Frame ground 16 awg
4. Harness ground B/W ring lug. Thanks to posplayer for the links, and all help given to me.

i twisted together all connections soldered and heatshrinked
as for soldering cleanliness is next to godliness to ensure good connections.
the handle bar loop is now redundant just tape back the two wires