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Blowing fuses!
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GS2GO
I read "GS Charging Health", and it is helpful, but too deep into the fix at this point. I (and the bike) am not in a location where I can do a major electrical reconstruction... that will most likely be the coming winter when the bike is in it's home garage. To satisfy my old-school troubleshooting approach now, I need to understand if the warm stator wire means a resistance in that one wire (bad/corroded connection somewhere within), or if that overheated condition is the result of a bad stator (one of the three stator windings is bad), or both/neither/somewhere else? Can a warm wire just remain warm and relatively harmless, or does it necessarily indicate a fried wire down the road? Also... does current flow back and forth between the R/R and the stator, or does it flow only from the stator to the R/R? Thanks.Last edited by Guest; 08-20-2015, 04:30 PM.
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"....does current flow back and forth between the R/R and the stator, or does it flow only from the stator to the R/R? "
It's AC, so it flows back and forth. When you can ,do those tests. The SH-775 can't do much without a good stator, best to find out before you venture too far from home.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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GS2GO
Thanks, posplayr...
The "old-school troubleshooting approach" is finding a solution to a problem with the tools that I have at hand. I am currently staying at a cabin in the middle of the woods of New Hampshire. My well-equipped garage is 80 miles away, along with my multimeter and all of my tools. Having to travel to the town library to access a computer to read this forum doesn't speed things along. If I can narrow the problem down to one wire or connection, maybe I can get my bike home in one piece.
Your shop manual pages are helpful, but that is information that I will find more useful when I am back in my shop, with time to do the job right.
Sorry I offended you.
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Follow the heat, it's probably a high contact resistance in a plug bullet connector or switch. Fuse blocks are also likely.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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One stator wire getting hotter than others probably means a bad connection - could be right at stator or along path to r/r. Since you are in a cabin in the woods, remove your headlight fuse- this drops load on stator as the SH-775 compensates nicely. Ride in the daytime till you get back home. Watch your turn signals flashing- if no flash, then battery voltage is dropping and ignition will soon die.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Originally posted by tom203 View PostOne stator wire getting hotter than others probably means a bad connection - could be right at stator or along path to r/r. Since you are in a cabin in the woods, remove your headlight fuse- this drops load on stator as the SH-775 compensates nicely. Ride in the daytime till you get back home. Watch your turn signals flashing- if no flash, then battery voltage is dropping and ignition will soon die.
This might be helpful; it is olde fashioned
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GS2GO
Thanks OldVet66 and tom203, for your information.
posplayr... recusing yourself from further participation in this thread was a good plan.
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Now I'm thinking that the bouncing around on the ride back caused a frayed wire to short against the frame somewhere.
Assuming fuse blows when no key turned on "bouncing in truck", Did you look under the gas tank? and check the whole harness including the keyswitch...wherein is the red wire attached to ignition....+ power is always "present" at the ignition switch too . It could find a path to ground via one of the harness wires or the frame. Also on the red wire too where it comes from R/R ...anywhere that shares the line with that blowing fuse.
It should not be present "below" the r/r as all the "+" is supposedly blocked by diodes of the Rectification function of the regulator.You can make a test lamp from a turn signal, in your cabin.
You can also use a brakelight bulb to replace a fuse but it will restrict current in the circuit, unlike a fuse.The bike won't run too well! BUT it still might indicate something. It might allow you to look for a short without setting your bike on fire in the harness or wherever...wiggling stuff will make the light bright one hopes and that would tell you it is a short.
A hot stator wire "at the connection" means that it is the "weakest link" in the circuit with too much resistance for the current it carries but it does not mean it is the CAUSE of blowing fuses. It is a symptom of poor connection -another thing to fix.Last edited by Gorminrider; 08-22-2015, 05:16 PM.
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GS2GO
I have taken the bike out a bunch of times now, always a little further than the time before, and stopped along the way to feel if the wires were warm. So far all is good! Thanks to all for your positive responses.
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jprice90
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