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what to do with the orange, orange/green wires on SH775 install?

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    what to do with the orange, orange/green wires on SH775 install?

    Hi folks, I'm trying to connect a new SH775 in place of an old (and I think non-stock RR, it has black green and red wires in addition to the stator yellows, and seems bigger than a 'zuk unit). The question I have is thus:

    The black (ground) wire comes out of the R/R and connects to orange and orange with green tracer wires. Given the way it has been connected I suspect the O and O/G wires were originally connected. How should I deal with them? I can A)run them to my SPG with the remainder of the black wire, B) join them together, C)or tape them off. I'm an electrical boob, so any simple feedback is appreciated!

    Also, can I tape off the original power lead into the original R/R, as I plan on sending the SH775 positive direct to the battery, with a 30 amp fuse?

    Thanks in advance!

    #2
    See GS Charging system Health.

    If you have to hook the SH-775 direct to the battery , that is at least better than having a SHUNT R/R properly connected.

    Since you apparently have your heart set on doing that, I'm even loath to mention that 30 amps is too large. Generally the max is 20 amps in that direct connect configuration. If you did it correctly then it would only be 15 amps and charge better , but then not everybody cares about such things..

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      #3
      Thanks. I'm open to suggestions, and shall downsize the fuse at your recommendation. I've read your excellent charging system health but again, as a electrical newbie, there is so much information to digest that it can become difficult to choose the correct path (pardon the electrical pun). The RR direct to battery was recommended by the supplier, and is simple, which is why I've chosen it. Looking at the plethora of diagrams on the site(did I mention information "overload"...another pun, sorry), it appears the best option is for the positive split into the ignition switch, and another to the battery via a 20 amp fuse? Again, your assistance is appreciated as I am a beginner electrician and am just trying to plug things in right to get the bike back on the road without a lot of theory. Cheers!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by revilo View Post
        Thanks. I'm open to suggestions, and shall downsize the fuse at your recommendation. I've read your excellent charging system health but again, as a electrical newbie, there is so much information to digest that it can become difficult to choose the correct path (pardon the electrical pun). The RR direct to battery was recommended by the supplier, and is simple, which is why I've chosen it. Looking at the plethora of diagrams on the site(did I mention information "overload"...another pun, sorry), it appears the best option is for the positive split into the ignition switch, and another to the battery via a 20 amp fuse? Again, your assistance is appreciated as I am a beginner electrician and am just trying to plug things in right to get the bike back on the road without a lot of theory. Cheers!

        See the third picture down in this thread. It is the only schematic in the summary.
        Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.





        While I can understand your wanting to follow the manufacture's recommendation, I have demonstrated by analysis why retaining the Suzuki wiring harness configuration for positive power distribution is the best way to configure the R/R. I have also demonstrated by analysis why the SPG configuration that mirrors the positive side distribution is also best. As I recall, no one has come up with any issue in either analysis (that was valid at least), and there have been a large percentage of people that have followed this guidance and it has worked for them almost without flaw.
        Last edited by posplayr; 07-30-2015, 03:34 PM.

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          #5
          Ok, my confusion with this diagram arises from the red wires coming from the RR and how to plumb them into the current system. My bike has the battery positive connected directly to the starter solenoid. A red power wire goes from there to the fuse box. I'm a bit perplexed about the best way to work the R/R positive into the existing system. Tips?
          Last edited by revilo; 07-30-2015, 03:50 PM.

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            #6
            Have a lookee at this wiring diagram, you'll find that red wire from battery positive powering the main fuse and another red wire from that fuse meeting up with the red wire from existing regulator. If you can't see it good enough , go here to this link and select the diagram for your model


            Attached Files
            Last edited by tom203; 07-30-2015, 04:19 PM. Reason: Info
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #7
              • Originally posted by revilo View Post
                Ok, my confusion with this diagram arises from the red wires coming from the RR and how to plumb them into the current system. My bike has the battery positive connected directly to the starter solenoid. A red power wire goes from there to the fuse box. I'm a bit perplexed about the best way to work the R/R positive into the existing system. Tips?


              Except for the solenoid, the diagram I posted is identical. The connection is very simple. Three elements R/R(+), Battery(+), Ignition switch all connected at a common point called "T".

              • The R/R(+) connects to the "T"
              • The Battery(+) comes through the main 15A fuse and connects to the "T"
              • The Ignition switch is powered from the "T".


              If you look at the schematic Tom posted ,I'm sure it is exactly that was as is the diagram I showed you and the description above. If you want to know why that is a theoretical question which you said you did not want to get into.

              You said you wanted it simple, the Red wire is already there right where you cut out the original R/R.

              Comment


                #8
                Excellent, thank you guys. That is about as simple as it gets for a novice like me. Surely you can understand the fear of letting out the purple smoke, no? In any case, that gives me the confidence to go ahead and do this. I've already got everything mounted up securely, and just need to do up the wiring.
                Out of curiousity, what kind of connectors do you use to make your "T"? Also, what gauge of wire do you recommend out of the R/R into the red?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by revilo View Post
                  Out of curiousity, what kind of connectors do you use to make your "T"? Also, what gauge of wire do you recommend out of the R/R into the red?
                  The "T" is already there. Just connect to the red harness wire to the R/R(+). Some people use the mating connector for the SH-775. It takes up a lot of space. If you have the space use it. Primary wires are 14 AWG.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ok, ive messed something up. New stator and rr are in, but the voltage at the battery is showing 18 to nearly 20v and idle and revving respectively. Not sire if my multimeter is pooched or if I need to have a look back through the stator papers.
                    Last edited by revilo; 07-30-2015, 10:05 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by revilo View Post
                      Ok, ive messed something up. New stator and rr are in, but the voltage at the battery is showing 18 to nearly 20v and idle and revving respectively. Suffice to say it is birning fuses, the one powering the signal and brake lights. Starting to panic a little, where do i look first?
                      Not sure it is possible to do that. 18V at the battery would require a lot of current that is just not there at idle. Do the Quick test and report all 6 numbers.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Does anybody have any pictures of their SH775 setup? Mine comes tomorrow with the Triumph connector and I'll be in the same boat.
                        Any mounting tips for a GS450 would also be great since from what I've seen it looks a bit bigger than whats on there now!

                        I found this thread to be helpful also.
                        Last edited by sam000lee; 07-30-2015, 11:42 PM.
                        1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
                        1977 GS550
                        1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Doublecheck the grounding of r/r to battery and frame- maybe you lost this connection and the multimeter is unhappy or maybe you got meter on a AC voltage scale instead of DC.
                          1981 gs650L

                          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by sam000lee View Post
                            ?..
                            Any mounting tips for a GS450 would also be great since from what I've seen it looks a bit bigger than whats on there now!
                            .
                            lots of pics on here for different mounting locations. The SH-775 is big and that fancy connector consumes space too! So be ready to get creative!
                            1981 gs650L

                            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I can subscribe to the original implementation (via the standard fuse block).
                              Nothing to do with your suboptimal voltage reading, but you want to rewire the headlamp loop, green wire if I remember correctly, in case it applies to your configuration.
                              Last edited by Lorenzo; 08-01-2015, 03:46 AM.

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