Sh775 installed not charging

[posplayr]

no do not reconnect the green white again. it just goes up to the headlight and comes back down again going through plugs and gaining resistance along the way. at the headlight there is a small wire loop where it come out on the plug and goes straight back in. iirc it is a leftover from when there was a switch to turn off your headlight. I don't have any electronics background to back this up but I have a feeling based on what I have read that this wire and the resistance it causes, will take out your stator slowly.
also based on what you have said in all your posts so far, I would be replacing the stator without hesitation.
I would be inclined to go over the bikes connectors with some non explosive contact cleaner. unplug, spray, re-grease (dielectric grease that is), plug back in. resistance in these plugs makes wires hot and increases resistance even further, causing real problems.
once again no electronics background. POSPLAYER is your man for that, this advice is just what I have learned dealing with my own charging issues last year and reading threads on this site.

I don't think resistance on the AC side will take out the stator, it simply is a place for heat to get generated and melt wires. Of course the stator resistance is on the order of 1 ohm and so if you have say 1 ohm resistance in connections then the output voltage will be only 1/2. Note this is not something you measure when you do open circuit tests. The 80VAC at 5000 RPM is not affected by nor can it detect high resistance in the stator leads. It will reduce your charging ability. If you clean the contacts to get back to say only 0.1 ohms then you would only be losing less power heating your wiring.

There are bigger problems with SHUNT R/R and high resistance on the primary DC wires. As you probably remember, the current running between the R/R and the battery causes voltage drops if there is any resistance at all. (that is what the Phase A tests are measuring). Basically the battery voltage is always less than the R/R output reference that is 14.25-14.5V. The difference between battery and R/R is a function of how much resistance. Remember when teh R/R's reach their setpoint they start to regulate. The SHUNT SHORTS and the SERIES OPENS. So when there is high resistance with a SHUNT it tends to start SHORTING immediately as it thinks that there is a high voltage at teh battery that needs to be regulated. This can leave the SHUNT on all the time which will heat up both R/R and the stator and drain the battery. With a SERIES R/R the R/R will just open but it will still drain the battery.

Regardless of the theory, all connections between the battery and R/R need to be cleaned. And the stator should be connected direct to the R/R. If a connector is used, tin all of the contact/crimps to make sure that corrosion does not get into the crimps and use some anti corrosion product to make sure contacts stay in good shape. I recommend a chemical clean with Naval jelly(or similar) and the treatment with DeOxit. You can also use dielectric grease instead of DeOxit.

The SPG is the most direct way of guaranteeing that all of the return currents get to the R/R while minimizing the current flow between the battery(-) and the R/R(-).It should be obvious that for a given resistance in the connections, the less current on this wire the the less voltage drop and the closer the battery voltage will track the R/R output setpoint. That is the reason for different wires going to the SPG.

For example if you have a Dyna-S, the coil return currents now ground out through the Dyn-S to the engine block. From the engine block the currents most likely path is to go from the battery grounding strap to the battery(-) and then travel back to the R/R(-). That means that teh current on this battery ground wire is about twice what it would be if the Dyna-S was not grounding through the engine. If fact from a grounding perspective, it would be best to run a ground from the Dyna-S all the way back to the SPG. Of course nobody does this. So as a compromise, I suggest the frame ground so in the event that the frame and battery strap ground get dirty, you can hope to pick up Dyna-S ground through the frame and pull those currents away from the Battery(-) post.

[Matchless]

Many stators that give an acceptable AC output when floating (unplugged from the R/R). This can lead you to assume erroneously that the stator is working correctly!
But you should also test for AC between any stator lead and ground. If any AC is measured to ground then the stator windings are shorted to ground! If you could see the exact schematic (internals) of your regulator coupled to a grounded stator, it will show how severely the circuit is changed.
I assume you did the static resistance test between any AC wire from the stator and to ground which should show no continuity?

[posplayr]

Many stators that give an acceptable AC output when floating (unplugged from the R/R). This can lead you to assume erroneously that the stator is working correctly!
But you should also test for AC between any stator lead and ground. If any AC is measured to ground then the stator windings are shorted to ground! If you could see the exact schematic (internals) of your regulator coupled to a grounded stator, it will show how severely the circuit is changed.
I assume you did the static resistance test between any AC wire from the stator and to ground which should show no continuity?

Hi Andre,
As per the facts of your description, I was promoted to post this thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?223164-FIRST-and-SECOND-LAW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=phase+B

FIRST LAW OF STATOR TESTS:
ANY POSITIVE RESULT of a STATOR TEST HAS AN AMBIGUITY PROPORTIONAL TO THE UNTESTED OPERATIONAL STRESS.

SECOND LAW OF STATOR TESTS:
ANY NEGATIVE RESULT of a STATOR TEST IS A NECESSARY AND SUFFICIENT CONDITION TO DECLARE A STATOR BAD.

Also waiting for someone to actually use a AC Current clamp to do a loaded tests and diagnose or fault isolate a stator.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?233793-RELIABLE-and-CHEAP-STATOR-TESTING&highlight=phase+B

[Matchless]

Hi Jim,
You are 100% correct and your guides are in my view exceptional! I just meant to highlight a specific test that is sometimes overlooked or misinterpreted. Your first and second law of a stator test is so true, but better understood by a novice once he/she has actually seen the type of faults and the results they lead to.
A while back I was planning to make up a plugable dummy load with 4 x 100W bulbs, the 4th one to ground, but 110V bulbs are not available here, so it never happened. Then a quick go/nogo test can be set up without the use of a multimeter, 3 yellow bulbs on, show stator OK and red on shows fault.
Keep well.

[posplayr]

Hi Jim,
You are 100% correct and your guides are in my view exceptional! I just meant to highlight a specific test that is sometimes overlooked or misinterpreted. Your first and second law of a stator test is so true, but better understood by a novice once he/she has actually seen the type of faults and the results they lead to.
A while back I was planning to make up a plugable dummy load with 4 x 100W bulbs, the 4th one to ground, but 110V bulbs are not available here, so it never happened. Then a quick go/nogo test can be set up without the use of a multimeter, 3 yellow bulbs on, show stator OK and red on shows fault.
Keep well.

See the last link in the last post on using an AC Amps Clamp meter. They are very cheap and even cheaper than any of the dummy load setups and do not require and disconnections.

Also waiting for someone to actually use a AC Current clamp to do a loaded tests and diagnose or fault isolate a stator.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...hlight=phase+B

[Wheelbreak]

Just an update. I replaced the stator with one of the Electrosports. Everything is charging great now. I made sure I had a SPG as well. Took her out for a 600 mile ride last weekend, and other than being a little hot she was loving life!

[Wheelbreak]

So after 5 months my charging system ****ted out on me again. If I charge the battery I can ride for about 20-30 minutes before it dies despite no charge what so ever from the charging system and the battery is a relatively new AGM style. Is there a multimeter test for the sh775? I have been googling around for an hour or so, and can't find anything. I really hope these questions aren't too redundant. I just want my bike to run again before spring. I have already missed a few beautiful riding days.

I just went through this thread again and am removing the question about stator tests as they were already answered. I am still interested to know if a test exists for the series regulator similar to that of a shunt using a multimeter. Maybe the same process?

[Nessism]

So after 5 months my charging system ****ted out on me again. If I charge the battery I can ride for about 20-30 minutes before it dies despite no charge what so ever from the charging system and the battery is a relatively new AGM style. Is there a multimeter test for the sh775? I have been googling around for an hour or so, and can't find anything. Also, is the only way to test the stator the AC test at 5000 rpms? I really hope these questions aren't too redundant. I just want my bike to run again before spring. I have already missed a few beautiful riding days.

That sucks man. Most likely the stator failed. Guess that goes to show a series R/R is no guarantee the stator won't fail regardless. Can't blame shunted current overheat anyway. When needing a stator recently I ponied up the money for a Ricks. I'm not exactly sure it's a superior product per say, but there is a good bit of positive word of mouth about the units.

BTW, where did you get your SH775 and does it have the numbers printed on the top? Reason I ask is because there are ripoff products in the market.

[Datsa Noydb]

Is there a multimeter test for the sh775? I have been googling around for an hour or so, and can't find anything.

Not sure exactly what you are trying to test, but posplayr's overall system test would definitely tell you what is working and what is not.

I really hope these questions aren't too redundant.

If you want to know, you have to ask (or search). However, once suggestions are made, it's prudent to try them.

I just went through this thread again and am removing the question about stator tests as they were already answered.

They may have been answered for YOU, but what about anyone ELSE that reads the thread? There will be answers posted for no apparent questions. You will have to talk to everyone that posted answers and ask them to remove them, too.
If you want to do someone a favor, just delete the entire first post, so the entire thread will disappear. That will remove the answers to unasked questions.

[posplayr]

That sucks man. Most likely the stator failed. Guess that goes to show a series R/R is no guarantee the stator won't fail regardless. Can't blame shunted current overheat anyway. When needing a stator recently I ponied up the money for a Ricks. I'm not exactly sure it's a superior product per say, but there is a good bit of positive word of mouth about the units.

BTW, where did you get your SH775 and does it have the numbers printed on the top? Reason I ask is because there are ripoff products in the market.

I would take all results with a grain of salt until seeing direct v.s. anecdotal evidence.

[posplayr]

I am still interested to know if a test exists for the series regulator similar to that of a shunt using a multimeter. Maybe the same process?

Sure there are tests although I suspect you have neither equipment nor skill to execute them.

The easier thing to do is make sure your stator is working as per the Revised Phase B results and then install the R/R and confirm the quick tests results. That is the easiest way to back into an R/R test.

[Nessism]

I would take all results with a grain of salt until seeing direct v.s. anecdotal evidence.

Here is a link to the ripoff product.

"Replaces these products"
POLARIS 4012941
SHINDENGEN SH775

I have no direct experience with this unit nor do I care to. It's clearly a ripoff product designed to deceive people into thinking it's a SH775. People that don't know better may think it's one but it isn't.

The below photo shows a REAL SH775

[tom203]

This is with new ES stator installed last Sept?? Is this a gooped coated stator? Do the AC leg to ground voltage test (stator and r/r disconnected).
Where did you get the SH-775? Like Nessism, I'm getting suspicious. Recently stumbled on site that sells r/r's for jap bikes- from pics these units have markings like SH-xxx with prices under $20.

I installed my SH-775 on a used stator back in june 2013- no problems with about 12k miles on setup.

[Grimly]

I would take all results with a grain of salt until seeing direct v.s. anecdotal evidence.

All you need to know is the world has no shortage of bstards who will steal your teeth if they get the chance.

[posplayr]

All you need to know is the world has no shortage of bstards who will steal your teeth if they get the chance.

Well that to, but I was referring to the practice of developing "universal laws of physics" based on a single experience (or experiment) .