1982 GS1100GK Starter

[Guest]

Went to start and cranking was slow. After several seconds bike started. Rode to store and when I came out a few minutes later starter just spun, would not engage, had to do push start. Once home I parked and killed engine. Immediately tried to restart and it did without problem. Now when I push start button starter does not engage, just spins. I hooked battery charger up to battery overnight, same result starter just spins. Going out to troubleshoot now but not familiar with starting system. Any ideas as where to look first.

[tom203]

These big boys tend to have starter clutch fun. Your starter motor spins , but the starter clutch doesn't "grab" the crankshaft consistently to spin engine - might be loose or plain worn out. Here's a pic of general layout, the pictured gear is driven by starter motor- this spins the clutch hub (to left of gear) attached to rotor which has internal rollers that grab the crankshaft. Your rotor might be loose on crankshaft or the rollers could be worn.

[Markus Likus]

Thanks for cluing me in, the photo helped. I finally received my gasket and flywheel puller Friday so I was able to tear down and inspect. I did not need the puller as the flywheel was loose. A roller fell out when I removed and it appeared as if someone in the past had been here before. What a PITA to reassemble. I almost gave up trying to get the starter gear back into the clutch. I have attached photos of my crank snout and flywheel. What have others done to address this issue? I was thinking of using some JB Weld epoxy or Loctite blue between the snout and flywheel but reassembled without applying either product. Motor starts OK now but don't know how long that is going to last.
One other item, is there a chart or table on the forum that lists the bolt lengths for the stator cover? I reinstalled mine in the order removed but two or three did not seem right. This is my first time posting photos so hope you can view.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YoJZzIkJrjA/VeSU57IDpPI/AAAAAAAAB1w/J6Sx5kM16iQ/s230-p/100_2754.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7KDQx2R33aI/VeSU544McbI/AAAAAAAAB1w/XGEiLq9il_I/w1244-h829-no/100_2749.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N1hT7SCFdko/VeSU57XcG2I/AAAAAAAAB1w/asCuwK7oQLc/w1244-h829-no/100_2752.JPG

[bwringer]

The Suzuki parts diagrams will generally show you which bolts go where. The essential bit of knowledge you need is that the thread length and thread diameter of each bolt is usually (but not always) encoded in the part number.

I usually use Online Cycle Parts.com -- they're actually local to me. There are several other good online parts dealers, so use the one you prefer. (Avoid BikeBandit -- they use their own confusing and goofy parts numbering system.)

http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40460f8700230d8b4ed70/crankcase-cover

If you look at the diagram, you'll see a view of the stator cover on the left with arrows pointing to the bolts -- look for the diagram numbers over on the right. You'll see for this model, the length of each bolt is actually in the description.

Most Suzuki parts diagrams do not include this info in the description, but you can usually get it from the part number. Notice on the first one how I've highlighted the first four digits of the last half of the part number.

The "06" is the thread diameter in mm -- these are 6mm bolts.

The "45" is the thread length in mm -- this one is a 45mm bolt. Remember, bolts and screws are almost always specified by the thread length and diameter NOT including the head of the fastener. There are different head styles, so an M6 screw might take a 10mm or 8mm wrench, or might even have a socket (allen) head that takes a 5mm or 4mm key.

20
BOLT (6x45)
01547-06457

21
BOLT (6x40)
01547-06407

22
BOLT (6x35)
01547-06357

23
BOLT (6x30)
01547-06307

[blowerbike]

red loctite the taper and the SC bolts.
let an air impact hammer for a few seconds during reassembly.
cross your fingers.