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Gs450 starting issue.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tylermaslanik
  • Start date Start date
T

Tylermaslanik

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My bike was running great. Was going at highway speeds lost throttle response and then died. Threw it on a truck got it home and a couple days later started again fine ran for 10 minutes and did the same thing again. Now I have no start at all. Voltage is fine in battery and starter solenoid. I think the flasher relay is bad but would that prevent it being totally dead? Or turn signal wires not being grounded prevent power? So confused here.
 
Have you properly cleaned carbs and replaced O-rings? See Basscliff site (member here) and you should find manual for your bike you can download. And there's more info on that site than you can imagine.
 
Check the main ground cable off the battery.
Also the main ground for the bike comes off the battery. Make sure it has a good connection.
 
my front turn signals are not grounded. would that matter? also the flasher relay seems to be bad. would that prevent the bike from getting power? at this point I dont care about starting it more so just where my power went. Seems to be a grounding issue but all my grounds look good.
 
There's a single fuse for the bike. Check it. If it is blown, proceed with caution (look everywhere for melted bad wires etc) and if warranted disconnect everything not needed to start and run...headlamp, brakelight,signals gauge lights ....and plug em in one at a time if the bike runs ok on a trial without em...and get a bunch of fuses until you find the short. There are better ways but I can't think of how to explain them right now.
The only thing "unfused" is the starter motor itself.

also, Your turn signals are grounded by connections inside the headlamp. should be, anyways..You see a single wire coming out the stalk, but the ground is on the metal stalk itself. .there's a ring connection that attaches to signal stalk where bolted in and that is plugged in to ground connectors inside the lamp casing. This method keeps signals "isolated "on rubber for vibration- that's why they don't ground through frame like cars do.. and, your signals won't flash if the bulbs aren't working. Check bulbs. Check corroded sockets.
 
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fuse was fine. i checked that first lol. I dug a little bit more with a multimeter and noticed I have 12.5 on the battery. 12.5 on the leads of the starter solenoid but after that im not getting a reading. Starter solenoid bad?
 
Starter solenoid bad?
Click to expand...
or starter button or clutch safety switch or even a sidestand safety switch (on newer bikes).
Easy totest solenoid; apply 12v + to the solenoid field wire...it'll be the small one attached to the solenoid The big wires are the + switched and supplied to starter. Your bike should turn over, so be in NEUTRAL doing this and have blocks under the wheels if you are not on the centre stand.!!

or just disconnect the startermotor at the solenoid and your solenoid will "click-click" which doesn't guarantee it works properly but it usually is ok if it clicks.
 
Im not getting any lights on the dash though. Headlight wont turn on. Oil light doesnt come on when I turn the key.
 
I have an 82 GS450L. I can get my oil light and neutral light on but won't turn over. Another problem I'm having is that both lights come on without the key in the ignition.
I'm definitely a newbie and got the bike for $100 so it's basically a learning project. Sure hope to get it going though.
 
So I went through the wiring and checked everything. Redid some grounds and now I can turn the key and at least get all my lights on, horn headlight dash lights etc on. My blinkers now will not blink. I took off the front ones totally and replaced the back ones with aftermarket. And they will only come on with the headlights turned on. If they are off blinkers will stay off. Headlight on blinkers stay solid. Also read somewhere that solid black wires can be hots? Lol makes no sense. Are the black/white the only grounds?
 
Oh also I replaced my R/R and starter solenoid with brand new parts and still not getting anything turning over.
 
Which is it , lights ain't working correctly or "not anything is turning over" or a combo plate??
 
Engine is not turning. I get nothing when I am pressing the start button.
 
Do you understand how to "jump" the starter solenoid? Look at that wiring diagram that I linked to that other guy. Make sure bike is in neutral and on centerstand so it doesn't leap forward!

the starter button feeds 12 volts positive to a small trigger wire on solenoid - but solenoid frame needs to be properly grounded to bike frame to work.
 
tom203 said:
Do you understand how to "jump" the starter solenoid? Look at that wiring diagram that I linked to that other guy. Make sure bike is in neutral and on centerstand so it doesn't leap forward!

the starter button feeds 12 volts positive to a small trigger wire on solenoid - but solenoid frame needs to be properly grounded to bike frame to work.
Click to expand...

I have that diagram in my manual but I have no clue how to read it. Fortunately, my starter button works but if you could explain in English how to do this, I'd appreciate it for emergencies.
 
Solenoids are easy to test and bypass... Look at attached pic....
the big red wire connects to battery positive. The other big stud with nut (with black twisty on it ) connects to starter motor. The small yellow with green stripe wire is the trigger wire - this gets 12 volt postive when you press starter button which connects the two studs together (inside the solenoid) so starter spins. You can bridge across the two studs with pliers ,screwdriver, etc. to make starter spin. Or if you suspect a bad starter button/ wiring ,you can connect the the yellow/green wire to the stud with the red wire to activate the solenoid just like the starter button is supposed to do. But beware! Make sure that you are in neutral and/or on centerstand so bike doesn't leap forward.
 

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If you have the stock standard single glass fuse as mentioned by Gorminrider, first thing I would do is replace it regardless of whether it tests fine or not. Also it should be on a short bit of harness that you can unplug and plug back in again.

On mine, the glass fuse appeared intact and measured fine, but like all glass fuses they are prone to be a little dodgy and the fuse holder itself could be the issue. If it has gotten corroded or has been a bit warm over time they can deteriorate and cause high resistance or open circuits.

The best check for this is when you have no power to anything, check the voltage on the harness just the other side of the fuse. If you have 12 volts in but nothing out, there is your issue.
 
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