Low does almost nothing and high is too hot. How can I get a small enough variable switch that will work?
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Variable switch for heated grips
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Variable switch for heated grips
My bike came with heated grips and a 3 position toggle switch (low/off/high)
Low does almost nothing and high is too hot. How can I get a small enough variable switch that will work?1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SESTags: None
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I would like to see the specs on that "dimmer".
If it is simply a tapped variable resistor, it's going to draw a LOT of current (same as HIGH setting) any time the heaters are ON.
Some of the power will be diverted to the heaters, the rest will be sent to ground.
A better alternative would be an active system that uses pulse-width modulation.
The difference in the way the two controllers work is similar to our situation with shunt- or series-style regulators.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Simplest of them all is a series / parallel switch. Series the bar heaters = high resistance = low heat. Parallel them = low resistance = high heat.
It just works, and has been working on my inner bar heaters for 25 years.
Of course, it depends on how the more conventional over-grip heaters are constructed. If they're not all that robust they might not like being high for very long.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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