Thoughts for a half decent multimeter??

[barnbiketom]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]42413[/ATTACH]The Snap on guy found me a decently priced DVM It Is An INNOVA 3320.Small ,light ,and compact, It has a battery load tester 1.5v,6v,9v,and 12v, DC mA,DC10A,Condinuity beeper, Diode tester, AC mA, Ohms, AC V, 10 meg ohm, input DCV, Auto power off, A stand Or elastic band to hold in place while working with it. It rated highly with some independent testing as far as accuracy against several other brand names. The test leads that were plenty long enough and came with protective caps for the leads. web site www.iEquus.com I also have a Fluke for more sensitive readings and a SUNPRO automotive tester witch does not have AC v input so that is a draw back . But real sensitive when testing fuel injectors etc. I also own a Matco amp clamp when looking for parasitic draws or amperage out put with charging systems.. On the Ebay auction site The INNOVA 3320 sells for 26.99 with free shipping. Do some research and see how it compares to much higher priced DVM's

Thts good to know. do you think the autoranging is a problem? can you defeat it? I like the wriststrap!!! and auto off !!hahhaha most of my elcheapo HF are probably still on as we speak

[jabcb]

The Innova 3320 looks like a bit nicer my Craftsman & the price is a bit better too.


I like the wristwrap.
I would rate reverse polarity protection a must & autoranging a want.


I probably would go for the Innova if my Craftsman need replacing, especially since Sears closed so many of their stores.

[JTGS850GL]

I've used a fluke 77 for years with no issues. Built like proverbial brick... Well you know. You can find the used all over the place on ebay for a decent price.

[bonanzadave]

I just got a ChineseDVM for $13. Checked a 110vac outlet in the house, a 12vdc issue on my tractor starter solenoid, and the grandsons BMW alternator output voltage. Now Im gonna check a couple things on the ol EZ. Dont see any reason to spend any more than 20 bucks.

[eil]

There's a saying in I.T., "nobody ever got fired for buying IBM." It's not literally true these days but there was a point in time that IBM was the undisputed leader of big-iron mainframes, servers, and storage systems. When you bought something, it was simply guaranteed to work. And that "something" was always about 5x the price of the runner-up.

So Fluke is the IBM of multimeters.

I used the Fluke 27/FM in the Air Force and it's a damned fine meter. I kind of want to pick up one before they become collector's items. (It would go good with my Tektronix 2246A, which I also used extensively in the Air Force.)

I myself can't justify spending $150+ on something I only use occasionally. But el-cheapo Harbor Freight meters are dangerous crap. A cheap meter is worse than a broken one. When they fail, they typically read zero volts or current, leading you to believe a circuit or wired is powered off. They don't handle high voltage well, most can cope with 120v fine but 220 is pushing it and anything over that can literally blow the thing up right in your hand.

I don't know what a good middle-of-the-road meter is these days, but I would aim for something closer to $40-$60 and definitely UL listed.

[Grimly]

Hohoh... you should see some of the youtube vids about what happens when a cheap meter shorts out, when plugged into the mains, European mains of 230+ volts, that is. Not worth taking the chance of holding one of those in your hand.

[Buffalo Bill]

WOW! I smoked some weed an I'm having some heavy thoughts about half decent multimeters…

[dorkburger]

I have a Fluke 27 in the work van. I refer to it as the brick. Its mainly a backup these days. With a thermocouple adapter and amp clamp plug in, it was quite versatile. It was only relegated to backup when the need for true RMS amp readings were needed when VFDs became prevalent in HVAC equipment.

[bwringer]

Flukes are nice and all, and they're the standard answer whenever anyone asks about meters, but they're insanely overpriced. If you're at the level where you don't even have a meter, just about anything that will get you in the ballpark will work fine. "Spend $200+ on a Fluke" is the wrong answer in these situations.

If you're an experienced wrench with sparky tendencies and the question is "I'd like to treat myself", then fine. Get yourself a Fluke and make a spot in your $10,000 Snap-On tool cabinet, Mr. Rockefeller...


Least year, I really wanted an amp clamp type meter that worked with DC, so that I could read "live", real-world current draw on various motorcycle systems while the bike was running or the key on. This is astonishingly difficult to find -- 99.999% of amp clamps out there only work with AC. (Most meters can only read DC amps by being placed in series with the load, so they're limited to 10 amps -- not good for much.)

My only options were a $60 Craftsman meter from my not-so-friendly local Sears or blowing a couple hundred bucks on a Fluke or similar high-end industrial brand.

I bought the Craftsman. It works brilliantly, it reads quite accurately, durable, high quality, lots of convenient features, etc. and so on.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P

Sears also sells a "Pro" model that can read DC amps for $110.


Anyway, if someone works on motorcycles or cars and has progressed beyond the "I don't have a meter" phase, being able to read DC amps without opening a circuit is ridiculously useful. Most multimeters are intended more for HVAC or home/factory use.

I'd highly recommend the Craftsman meter I linked above. Or, get the Fluke equivalent if you want to spend some grown-up money.

[barnbiketom]

Thanks man!!That one looks good. I must have missed it today.. was at Sears browsing them over..maybe it's online only??
I agree that a clamp on DC meter is rare and would love to be able to see stuff like starter draw instantly!!
This one just moved up to #1 on my list if my Fleabay "fluke" watch list flukes out over a hundred bucks hahaha

[posplayr]

I have an expensive clamp on ampmeter for a scope but hate to pull it out and hate more putting a meter in series with a load unless it is a light bulb or something like that. Even then I just used my power digital supply . Anyway having a clamp on DC amp meter is undoubtedly useful. What would you figure the minimum current is that you can see on the 20 amp scale (6 digits)? 1 mAmp?

[bwringer]

The $60 Crafstman DC amp clamp reads to two decimal places in the low range (0-40 amps DC) and the specs say the accuracy is +-2.5% at 0-20 amps, +-3.0% at 20-40 amps. So no, the clamp won't give you laboratory precision in the milliamp range. I've tested with small light bulbs and similar small loads, and it gives exactly the expected readings.

[posplayr]

The $60 Crafstman DC amp clamp reads to two decimal places in the low range (0-40 amps DC) and the specs say the accuracy is +-2.5% at 0-20 amps, +-3.0% at 20-40 amps. So no, the clamp won't give you laboratory precision in the milliamp range. I've tested with small light bulbs and similar small loads, and it gives exactly the expected readings.

Yea, I can read a spec sheet as well, but suppose the answer to my question is that there are only 4 digits on the display and with a 20 amp scale that gives 10 mAmp resolution.

[jstewart]

Still can't beat a properly calibrated Simpson 260 analogue meter for use around the house. It may not be as accurate as today's digital models but still extremely useful. Great for a visual capacitance check if you ever need it. You can pick up a good used one for $25 and get a fairly decent calibration on it using some 1% resistors.

Yes I have a digital, I just find myself using it more often than than the DVOM.

Same here, I have a Fluke 87 but for most electrical checks I fall back on my old analog Simpson 260. One task I always use the more accurate Fluke 87 for is resistance checks, particularly across connectors on these old bikes.

[Steve]

Least year, I really wanted an amp clamp type meter that worked with DC, so that I could read "live", real-world current draw on various motorcycle systems while the bike was running or the key on. This is astonishingly difficult to find -- 99.999% of amp clamps out there only work with AC. (Most meters can only read DC amps by being placed in series with the load, so they're limited to 10 amps -- not good for much.)

My only options were a $60 Craftsman meter from my not-so-friendly local Sears or blowing a couple hundred bucks on a Fluke or similar high-end industrial brand. ... I bought the Craftsman.

I was faced with a similar situation a couple of years ago. However, I found a similar meter at Radio Shack before I saw the one at Sears. It was $80, and the only apparent difference is a third amp scale that covers 800 amps.

The test equipment at work has to be calibrated every year (we verify accuracy on medical equipment). When the crew came through to do the shop equipment, I had them run the Radio Shack meter across their tester to see how it fared. I did not ask for a sticker that verified accuracy, so they did it at no charge. On the 40 amp scale, 30 amps showed on the meter as 28. On the 400 amp scale, 300 amps showed as 320. Those were the only two items that would have made it not earn a sticker, but they are close enough for the work that I do on the bikes. For the stuff at work, I use the 30 (or so) year old Fluke 77 that still passes calibration every year.

Since Radio Shack has all but gone under (no active website at the moment), the Craftsman meter is a good choice.

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