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So, I'm having trouble with my charging system.
Bike is currently only in condition safe to ride around the neighborhood at low speeds. On a fully charged battery, it starts and drives around with full electric just fine. Horn, Lights, all good. Doesn't stall out at stop signs.
But when i bring the bike back to the house, I have to carefully flutter the clutch to roll it through the grass past our trucks to the back of the house where i have my workbench set up (covered location). In doing this, I stall out 3-5 times. After that the bike looses power and battery dead.
BEFORE WE ADDRESS THE REAL QUESTION ID LIKE TO RULE ONE THING OUT:
Currently I'm using the solenoid bypass to start it. I'm waiting on a new solenoid and am going to check into the handlebar switch as nothing at all happens when I hit the start button. Does using this bypass method with a screwdriver simply pull a crazy amount of amps from the battery, hence killing it in 4 stalls whereas normally that wouldn't happen? My logic here relates to my experience building E-cigarette coils. The thicker and longer the coil, the lower the resistance. I was taught to think of the wire as a hose. The bigger, the more current flows though in amps. So, with a screwdriver carrying much much MUCH more thickness and length than the solenoid, I assume I'm putting some SERIOUS stress on the battery.
If that's not the issue: can someone direct me to instructions (simple! i seem to get more confused with electrical stuff than anything else because i have a hard time visualizing the process. All those wires i just cant compartmentalize easily in the brain. Piston and valves carbs however make perfect sense to me) on using a voltmeter to test the RR and the Stator? I will test the RR first because I cheaped out and bought a $20 dollar one (new) off ebay that is for a GS1000 of the same year. I didnt notice i got the wrong one until I received it but figured I'd see if it worked anyway. Some parts are interchangeable between models so I figured heck why not at least try it.
I know, I know, I should have just bought the $95 dollar one from Ricks. Shut up. I guess with the boatload of parts I need for this bike I was looking to cut a corner on something that wasnt performance or safety related. Sigh...go ahead. Bust those chops. I deserve it.
Bike is currently only in condition safe to ride around the neighborhood at low speeds. On a fully charged battery, it starts and drives around with full electric just fine. Horn, Lights, all good. Doesn't stall out at stop signs.
But when i bring the bike back to the house, I have to carefully flutter the clutch to roll it through the grass past our trucks to the back of the house where i have my workbench set up (covered location). In doing this, I stall out 3-5 times. After that the bike looses power and battery dead.
BEFORE WE ADDRESS THE REAL QUESTION ID LIKE TO RULE ONE THING OUT:
Currently I'm using the solenoid bypass to start it. I'm waiting on a new solenoid and am going to check into the handlebar switch as nothing at all happens when I hit the start button. Does using this bypass method with a screwdriver simply pull a crazy amount of amps from the battery, hence killing it in 4 stalls whereas normally that wouldn't happen? My logic here relates to my experience building E-cigarette coils. The thicker and longer the coil, the lower the resistance. I was taught to think of the wire as a hose. The bigger, the more current flows though in amps. So, with a screwdriver carrying much much MUCH more thickness and length than the solenoid, I assume I'm putting some SERIOUS stress on the battery.
If that's not the issue: can someone direct me to instructions (simple! i seem to get more confused with electrical stuff than anything else because i have a hard time visualizing the process. All those wires i just cant compartmentalize easily in the brain. Piston and valves carbs however make perfect sense to me) on using a voltmeter to test the RR and the Stator? I will test the RR first because I cheaped out and bought a $20 dollar one (new) off ebay that is for a GS1000 of the same year. I didnt notice i got the wrong one until I received it but figured I'd see if it worked anyway. Some parts are interchangeable between models so I figured heck why not at least try it.
I know, I know, I should have just bought the $95 dollar one from Ricks. Shut up. I guess with the boatload of parts I need for this bike I was looking to cut a corner on something that wasnt performance or safety related. Sigh...go ahead. Bust those chops. I deserve it.
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