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Grease will lock in moisture, a fluid film with staying power is better.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.
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That ACF50 stuff looks pretty good. Should be a lot less messy than dielectric grease.
Then again, you can't just waltz into any auto parts store and walk out with a big can of it for $5 or less. Another weird chemical to order from Amazon, dammit.Last edited by bwringer; 11-17-2015, 07:55 PM.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
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The thing with the ACF is a little goes a long way, it has great creeping action. Here is a source, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=211998 the aerosol is nice, but for the most applications for electrical I prefer the little 1/2 oz bottle with its really fine tip. I always get an ample supply of them at conferences and just refill with the aerosol.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostUnless you have some heavy MIL-SPEC salt fog applications the low viscosity treatments would seem preferable in most cases. I assume this ACF50 is similar to DeOxit or perhaps better?
ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion/lubricant compound, that has been specifically designed for the Aero Space Industry. Although ACF-50 is used primarily in the aviation industry it can be used virtually anywhere that corrosion is a problem. Applications such as interior metal surfaces, structural assemblies, micro switches, avionic components, solenoids/motors, battery terminals etc. ACF-50 is great for use on motorcycles, motorbikes
Reading the bumph about it (assuming it's true and not the usual boolox) it seems to be good and I'd presume that total boolox is kind of frowned upon by the FAA if they're actually approving the application of the stuff into wing cavities, etc.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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I use deoxit on electrical switches and connectors, including on bikes. Once the electrical contacts are clean I use a thin film of dielectric on places like headlight bulb contacts and spark plug boots. I recently used deoxit on a friend's organ pedal contact switches and they went from producing staticy feedback to actual clean tones.Last edited by gsgeezer; 11-21-2015, 11:03 PM.
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I didn't realize Deoxit would serve as a lasting conductor, good to know.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
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Originally posted by Fjbj40 View PostI have never used or seen DeOxit. The ACF, in my experience, will slow down and/or sometimes arrest corrosion. As for cleaning contacts I use contact cleaner, IPA 90% minimum, naptha and an acid brush or tooth brush followed by ACF.
ACF has very good results in the aerospace industry.
More than a contact cleaner, DeoxIT chemically improves electrical connections.
- Cleans, protects, lubricates, and improves conductivity
ACF50 claims it is safe for electronics and does not "appreciably change resistance" in contacts. Is that worse than improving conductivity??? I don't know. It seems like ACF50 is a protectant primarily and does not harm electrical contacts "appreciably" (words from the spec sheet which I can't find again). DeOxit claims to improve electrical contacts.
Cleaning with DeOxit and spraying with ACF50 should be double protection with improved conductivity.
- ACF-50 can be safely applied to electronics such as radios, timers, test equipment, antenna connections, computers, etc.
- ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.
Last edited by posplayr; 11-22-2015, 01:08 AM.
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I have been applying it to electrical connectors on aircraft, cars, boats and motorcycles for over 15 years with no ill effects or failure related to the application on those components. It is a great corrosion inhibitor, as I said before it has great creeping action, it wicks it's way into sandwiched assemblies very well. The proof for me was when I rewired my Boston Whaler 9 years ago, which is exclusively used in salt water. This summer I did some work which involved in wiring and when disassembled there was zero corrosion on some of the plain copper wires!
When I see approvals for use from Boeing and other airframe manufacturers it gets my approvalLast edited by Fjbj40; 11-22-2015, 12:42 PM.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.
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I use fine sand paper for the male ends and Radio Shack electronics cleaner and a Q tip to clean inside the round female ends. Then the Dielectric and done.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Originally posted by Fjbj40 View PostI have been applying it to electrical connectors on aircraft, cars, boats and motorcycles for over 15 years with no ill effects or failure related to the application on those components. It is a great corrosion inhibitor, as I said before it has great creeping action, it wicks it's way into sandwiched assemblies very well. The proof for me was when I rewired my Boston Whaler 9 years ago, which is exclusively used in salt water. This summer I did some work which involved in wiring and when disassembled there was zero corrosion on some of the plain copper wires!
When I see approvals for use from Boeing and other airframe manufacturers it gets my approval
There are also aerospace requirements for electrical bonding between faying surfaces and I see no mention that ACF50 is approved for that. It is one thing to say that ACF50 is approved and recommended for liberal and periodic spray application over electronic assemblies, it is another application all together to say it is approved for electrical bonding applications.
This question in my mind is what is the electrical resistance between flat ring lugs if ACF50 is applied v.s DeOxit for example. 0.01 or 0.025 ohms? The quantities are well below 0.1 ohms which for almost all electrical contacts does not matter. But for these critical connections it would be good to know what is best.
Last edited by posplayr; 11-22-2015, 01:46 PM.
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Those are good questions Jim. I will talk to some of the avionics folks at work and see if they can shed some light onto this stuff.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.
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