1980 GS1000/Dyna S No power to Rotor

[Guest]

I am working with My 1980 GS 1000. I installed a Dyna S ignition and am getting no power past the power supplies on the ignition. I had ignition with the stock plate, however not good. I have 12V Switched power to the coils, the junction where I attached the Dyna red lead to the switched leads to the coils. I have 12V to the red wiring at the ignition plate. I have 12V to the ground wires of the ignition if I bypass the ignition plate. The failure seems to be between the power supplies on the plate and the rotor. I get no light when I turn the engine by hand at all. I double checked the rotor and it's orientation.
Any ideas?

[bwringer]

I'm not sure what you're trying to measure or what you expect or why. But it doesn't sound like you're testing the ignition correctly.

But anyway, here's the exact procedure for troubleshooting your coils and a Dyna S ignition. Read it four or five times and then follow each step to the letter.

https://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/DynaS_Testing.pdf

For the parts of the testing requiring an ohm meter, try to use a decent meter and make sure it has a fresh battery. You don't need a mega-$$$ Fluke or anything, but a freebie Harbor Freight is not likely to give usable, reproducable results.

[Izukes]

What I am trying to test is why I get no light in my 12V test light any where when I static time the ignition and rotate the engine. I have gone over my installation and wiring several times. I have read that trouble shooter a number of times. I'm getting no spark at all.

[Izukes]

And in the mean time I cannot get through to Dynatek.....

[60ratrod]

Have you checked to see if you are getting voltage to the signal side of the coils? You will only get 1.2-1.4 vdc at the signal terminals on the coils, not enough to set off a test light. Also, are you turning the advance rotor to full advance when you hit the "f" mark on either side?

[azr]

I'm a bit confused by your wiring "I have 12V to the ground wires of the ignition if I bypass the ignition plate" and what are you using for switched 12V? and did you have the bike turned on when you did your test with the test light?

[OldVet66]

The Dyna-S is not rocket science. If you have it installed correctly, have good battery voltage without too much voltage drop and turn the plate near where the points timing plate was set it is going to start. I never bothered with a light, just marked the old timing plate position, lined up the Dyna plat as close as I could get it, Turned it a little until it started and sounded good, put a timing light on it and timed it per factory manual. This would all depend on the bike running before you started the conversion. There could be other things wrong but I would re-check everything. If your switched source (that should be the kill switch) has too much of a voltage drop it is likely that it will not produce spark. You can always fuse a jumper directly from your battery + to your coil feed point eliminating any system voltage drop for a test to see if you are below the threshold for an electronic ignition.

[trippivot]

don't use a test light - it does not work like a mechanical point system. test light is just to tell there is 12V+ on the red feed wire - that is all you can do with that tool and a dyna "S". forget trying to test the black or white wire - just hook them up to your main coils. they make a signal interruption but a test light doesn't help. just verify there is power going all the way to the crank plate on the red wire..


to test for spark all you have to do is turn on the ignition key and kill switch to energize the ignition system - engine NOT running- and pass a screwdriver past the pick up - with a test spark plug in the hi tension wire grounded on the outside of the engine 1or4 AND 2or3 - you will hear and see the spark event = plug will snap a little blue spark and it is so fast it breaks the speed of sound making a noise- it is so simple you will be amazed - check 1/4 and 2/3 separately the pick ups' can fail individually -it is a pass/fail test /// pass got spark= time it in /// fail no spark= recheck installation - then make the call if you have a faulty plate unit.

Timing is as simple - install a test plug into a spark plug wire # 4 is closest - manually turn engine with the 19mm end nut and watch/listen for the snap - line up 1/4 "F" mark with the timed ignition event - some advancers do not have a 2/3 "F" mark and that kind of sucks - but they do have a "T" mark and the distance between the "T" and the "F" is equal for both pairs. I scratch a line on the advancer after measuring with a machinist scale- or mechanical dividers tool.