GS 550 Increase available electrical power (replace Generator?)

[roeme]

Howdy,

my bike has trouble charging during commuting, and unhurried tours. Throw in mandatory daytime running light, and I'll have to re-charge the battery every month or so.

I'm planning to:

1. Rewire; I suspect the still original connectors to have developed quite a bit of contact resistance (winker hanging at low rev's hints at this)
2. Replace the R/R (also still original, regulation beginning to go out of spec)

I'm wondering wether it's also possible to replace the generator with a beefier variant. My bike has both the kick-starter and electrical starter; reading the maintenance manual, Suzuki states that later models which did away with the kick-starter got a higher performance generator in exchange. Would such a generator even fit on my engine?

Also; if you know of additional things to do; shoot!

[Datsa Noydb]

The first thing to do is to clean (replace if necessary) all the electrical connections between the stator (you call it 'generator') and the R/R. While you are playing with those connections, consider re-routing one of the wires. One wire from the stator is routed up to the headlight switch, where it can turn off one of the windings when the lights are off. Since you have mandatory lights ON, the extra charging would be welcome. Ensuring you have a good ground for the R/R will help, too.

Another thing you can do is to replace the R/R. The one that works best here is from a Polaris ATV, not sure if you have it easily available locally, but can certainly order one. There are several threads here that detail the model, but member "Steve" has a thread showing several sources in the USA. You might check with them to see if they will ship to you.

The newer stator has 18 poles instead of 12. I have not seen any numbers that show how much more power it might put out, but you will have to change the rotor (flywheel) as well as the stator if you choose to do that.

Lastly, if you are still using a wet-cell battery, consider a switch to a sealed AGM-style battery. Note that "AGM" is a construction style, not a brand name.

[roeme]

Thanks for the tips!

The first thing to do is to clean (replace if necessary) all the electrical connections between the stator (you call it 'generator')

The newer stator has 18 poles instead of 12. I have not seen any numbers that show how much more power it might put out, but you will have to change the rotor (flywheel) as well as the stator if you choose to do that.

I was intentionally referring to the whole generator; (rotor, stator and parts) – as you confirm, I suspect that changing the stator will also require a different rotor; and I'm not sure wether the newer model referred to by Suzuki has the same dimensions.

[...] consider re-routing one of the wires. One wire from the stator is routed up to the headlight switch, where it can turn off one of the windings when the lights are off. Since you have mandatory lights ON, the extra charging would be welcome. Ensuring you have a good ground for the R/R will help, too.

I heard about this mod; where can I find more information about it? Or is it simply about bypassing the switch/getting rid of the wire?

Lastly, if you are still using a wet-cell battery, consider a switch to a sealed AGM-style battery.

Since I was gifted a fresh wet-cell; I'll wait a bit with changing over to AGM.

[Brendan W]

The 550 should be well capable of maintaining battery charge even with headlight on all the time. Something is not working properly.
It could be the regulator, bad wiring or a stator problem.
Find Posplayr's sig and do the tests and get back with the results.

[OldVet66]

A hotter stator will compound existing problems and future problems unless paired with a Series R/R upgrade (SH-775 most affordable) and electrical system maintenance. Mine has hung in there for some years probably close to the 40,000 mile mark now (Series R/R and over wound stator standard configuration). R/R and stator wires go directly together, no particular order necessary, you can abandon the loop through the switch. With a Series R/R it is totally unnecessary. It was originally designed to cut one stator leg out when the headlamp was turned off to prevent overcharging and also became a failure point with time.

[Redman]

QUOTE
(winker hanging at low rev's hints at this
END QUOTE

That is not a hint of bad connection.
THat is a DEFINITE symptom of low voltage. (assuming winkers did blink previously and still do sometimes).
And the low voltage can be caused by many different reasons, poor charging or bad connection somewhere.

Winkers not winking is first symptom. Later sysmptom can be that are dead on side of road somewhere.

Get volt meter. FInd Posplayer links to check things out.

.

[roeme]

As an update; I transplanted both the regulator and rectifier from my second bike, both of which I confirmed working by testing them on my electronics bench; the regulator cut out at around 16.5V (which is the value noted in my manual), and all diodes of the rectifier measured with a correct forward drop wee bit above 0.5V.

The faulty regulator did not cut out at all, and so - I suspect - took out the two diodes I found faulty in the old rectifier.

While doing this I measured the stator, winding-to-winding was around 1Ω. Forgot wether I checked to-ground, have to do this (again) later.

Still; I have not enough electrical power at low rpms, but before going further, I'll try to recharge the battery (possibly close to being killed of by all this abuse), and connect the stator directly to the Rectifier.

In the long run, I aim to replace the stock R/R with a SH775.

[Redman]

79 regulator rectifier must be different than what I am familiar with (80, & 82) if you can replace diodes.

Even a complete good GS charging system doesn't charge much at all at idle or low rpms.

.

[OldVet66]

Get rid of the old system entirely, they were very unreliable and not much better after they changed to an integrated R/R in 1980. You would do your bike and your pocketbook (in the long run) a definite favor by switching to a Series R/R at this time. My '78 and '79 parts bike both had faulty systems. The '79 only had 4,600 miles on it.

[roeme]

79 regulator rectifier must be different than what I am familiar with (80, & 82) if you can replace diodes.

One can't replace single diodes; I transplanted the whole rectifier from my other bike. With the help of the schematics; I was able to check if and what was exactly wrong with the faulty Rectifier. The Regulator and Rectifier are separate parts on my bikes ('79 550s). Hence my phrasing.

Even a complete good GS charging system doesn't charge much at all at idle or low rpms.

This is very good to know.

Get rid of the old system entirely, they were very unreliable and not much better after they changed to an integrated R/R in 1980. You would do your bike and your pocketbook (in the long run) a definite favor by switching to a Series R/R at this time. My '78 and '79 parts bike both had faulty systems. The '79 only had 4,600 miles on it.

Thanks! This tells me to assign a higher priority to sourcing a SH775.