.png "Powered by vBulletin")
Hello. Please see the attached photos showing what the previous owner did to the wiring harness. It appear that some modification was performed. The bike runs in its current condition. I am getting it road worthy and noticed the significant amount of electrical tape and then saw that certain wires have been cut and reconnected. It looks like new wires have been installed from the starter. Does anyone have any idea what was done here and why? Also should I just solder the connections and seal it back up or should I make some modification or look for a new wiring harness? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
-
-
The good news is that there is nothing salvageable about that wiring.
It violates the standard way to hook up an R/R which is described in my signature under GS Charging Health.
You should start there and identify the stock wires. (R, lg/W,R/W,B/W) They are coming from the harness anything twisted or cut and added is obviously not stock.
Those triple white wires are also a new stator which we can hope has not burned up. You do not show the R/R. Don't be coy
-
Those wires are from the stator, not the starter. Which can be good or bad. Because they are all the same color, it is obvious that the stator has been replaced with an aftermarket unit. Can't really tell from that picture, but if the stator is wired directly to the R/R, that's good. We need to see the R/R, it's probably a stock shunt-style unit. You will do yourself and your bike a big favor if you look up a Polaris series-style R/R. Cost will be about $80 or so, but will likely end any problems with your electrical system, especially if you clean all the connections in the harness while you are waiting for your new R/R to arrive.Originally posted by Piney1100 View PostComment
-
Welcome from a fellow NJ inmate. I'm assuming you're south of me if your name is any indication.
Do yourself a favor and listen to these gents regarding the electrics. Some years ago I got stranded in Maryland with a burned up rectifier.
I'd love to see pics of your bike. Was this the one on Craigslist earlier this year?sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/Comment
-
Thanks for the input gentleman. No this bike was not on Craigslist. The bike is in pretty good shape. I bought it 7 years ago and am just now getting it on the road.
Attached is a picture of the R/R. I'll post a pic of the bike. I rode one exactly like it cross country when I was young and the bike was new.
Please let me know if I can just clean all the connections and replace bad connections while also splicing and soldering the modifications or whether I should revert to the stock wiring scheme. It appears that the wiring has been modifiedIMG_1722.jpg when the new stator was installed. The ignitor seems stock and not modified.
My goal is to just make it road worthy and ride. Or do I need to get a new harness or otherwise replace the wiring? Am I to understand that I can order a replacement R/R form a Polaris dealer? Thanks for your time.Comment
-
That wiring looks good enough to get you out of town before it strands you.Originally posted by Piney1100 View Post
If you clean and solder what is there it will get your even further from home before it fails.
If you don't want to perform the recommended modification, you are best to leave it as is as it will just short out and strand you closest to home rather than much further away.Last edited by posplayr; 02-06-2016, 02:33 PM.Comment
-
I do want to perform the recommended modifications. I read GS Charging System Health. I just don't understand what you are saying as far as the cut wires in my harness. Should I scrap the whole wiring harness or should I just remove the wires which you say cannot be repaired, trace them and install certain new wires while retaining most of the existing wiring? Please advise. Thank you.Comment
-
No one said to replace the whole harness and you would be hard pressed to find one in any better shape.Originally posted by Piney1100 View Post
I would strongly recommend an SH-775 though.
Basically if you remove any modifications (anything added from the stock wires.)
and follow a standard install of a SH-775 according to the guide you will be good to go.
Take the pictures that you have posted and a.) annotate what you plan to remove or B.) label it as an OEM wire if you think that is what it is.
Suzuki uses standard color codes for electrical functions so it should not be that hard assuming you have a factory manual. There will not be aschematic for your particular bike 83 ESD, but the 82 1100EZ is pretty close.
You only need to identify
RED -goes from "T" in the harness to the R/R(+)
3 White wires that go straight to the R/R
The modifications will leave the following OEM wires disconnected(that means they will be left unused and you can ignore them). REPEAT IGNORE THEM.
- W/R (White with red tracer)
- Lg/W(Light Green-white tracer)
The OEM grounds are wholly inadequate and your OP has added some other strange ones.
Harness ground in B/W.
You should use a SPG and the grounding will be much better. It is described in detail.
- SPG Common point on one of the mounting bolts
- 14 awg wire to R/R(-)
- 16 awg wire to Battery(-)
- 16 awg wire to Frame
- Stack the Harness B/W with the same mounting bolt of you can.
Comment
-
Well its a dogs breakfast with all the color changes but it looks like he hasn't deviated from stock, with one leg going up to the bypassed headlight switch. I would definitely try and remove the random color changes and do some good solder joints with shrink tube also invest in an sh775 reg/rec. If you read over posplayrs posts very carefully you will be fine.Comment
-
Thanks guys. This forum is great. I will post an annotated pic to confirm my proposed repairs are correct and obtain an SH775. here is a pic of the beauty!Comment
-
Nice Bike, even nicer pipe. I would get the Compufire as it is much smaller and it looks like you would want to spend a little bit more for the old girl. The SH-775 and the compufire are both SERIES. The Compufire is smaller and technically a better design in that the output voltages should be a touch higher at ile and zero battery drain v.s. 2.5mAmp for the SH-775. Small differences but the physical size is really the driver. Much easier to fit in teh stock location.
.png)
Here is a price down to $150 shipped.
Comment
-
Ready to power up?
Well here it is. I Installed the new Compu Fire R/R. All three stator wires go to the R/R. Red positive wire from T in harness goes straight to R/R. The W/R Lg/W are abandoned/terminated in shrink wrap. The Battery positive is connected to the starter relay and the fuse box. The single point ground includes the battery (-), the R/R, the the harness B/wt, the frame by battery box.
The battery is on the trickle charger and ready to go. I have cleaned all other connections and applied Dielectric grease throughout the harness. Does anyone see a glaring problem here before I install the battery? Thanks for your time and comments.IMG_1743.jpgComment
-
Oh Yeah: I was wondering if I need an in line fuse between the battery and the fuse box or elsewhere?Originally posted by Piney1100 View PostComment
-
Originally posted by Piney1100 View Post
Keep those wires out of the chain.........
Not that it matters that much but by using the battery box ground you must have run a seperate ground wire from battery box to the SPG. The Harness B/W to the solenoid would have probably stretched over to where your SPG if you keep it short (no more that 1ft of length from R/R(-).Comment
-
Thanks again for your help posplayr. I will reinstall the chain guard and make sure the wires stay out of the chain for sure!
You have made it possible for me to almost get this beauty on the road again. Forgive me for asking for more clarification and for being a pest but I don't want to screw it up now. I may have made a mistake as I was using the battery box ground as the SPG even though the SPG diagram provided shows a separate ground going from the SPG to the another point on the frame.
I ran the B/W from the harness, the R/R ground and the battery (-) all to the battery box ground. I thought that was acceptable because of the info I got before. I used it because it is right next to the battery box as you know and it is a bolt directly to the cross bar on the frame which supports the battery box. I thought then it was a single point ground at that point. I see now that I should follow the digram exactly and add a ground from the SPG to the frame? Is that correct? The battery (-) was grounded to a bolt under the carbs and on top of the engine case. Is that a good ground for the SPG to the frame or should I find another frame bolt? Also, the harness had two addition B/W wires that were connected to the solenoid. I reinstalled them on the solenoid if that is OK?
I am sorry but do not understand: "The Harness B/W to the solenoid would have probably stretched over to where your SPG if you keep it short (no more that 1ft of length from R/R(-)." The harness B/W (two of) are back on the solenoid (-). The length of wire from R/R (-) to SPG is less than on foot. Should I take those other B/W grounds off the solenoid (-) and put them also on the SPG also? That will be three (3) B/W from harness onto SPG?
Your time is greatly appreciated! Thanks.Comment
Comment