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Never would have thought solder quality was this important

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    Never would have thought solder quality was this important

    I was hanging around another forum where a fellow converted to a PMA from his stock setup on an XS650. With everything done by the book it just wouldn't charge enough. After MUCH hassle, one of the well seasoned oldtimers figured out that the solder he used on his connections was of insufficient quality. Cleared right up with a higher grade of solder on a rework. Who'd a thunk it? Now when I go look for solder I'll have to research a little 1st.

    #2
    I still prefer the old-fashioned lead/tin solder, not the new "lead-free" stuff.

    Probably more important than the solder itself would be the prep. CLEAN connections, proper flux and proper temperature.

    Many times, simply re-heating the work to make the solder flow a bit better will fix the problem. This is what is done to fix a "cold" solder joint, which can be identified by a "blob" of solder at the joint instead of nicely-flowing lines.

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      #3
      Solder is not a good conductor which is why you need a good mechanical connection between the the conductors being soldered. The quality of the solder may play some part in a good connection but usually only if the conductors aren't in firm contact before the solder is applied.

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        #4
        Originally posted by Chris View Post
        Solder is not a good conductor which is why you need a good mechanical connection between the the conductors being soldered. The quality of the solder may play some part in a good connection but usually only if the conductors aren't in firm contact before the solder is applied.
        I agree, the problem from the other board was probably cold solder joints that had oxidized without good mechanical connections. More and More I'm using a good flux to minimize the amount of heat I need to put into soldered connections and ensure a nice flow out.

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          #5
          Many people mistakenly think that solder is what makes the connection. WRONG. You need a good, clean, TIGHT mechanical connection before you apply solder. Solder is more of a coating that keeps the tight connection from oxidizing.

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            #6
            I started this thread just a few days ago

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              #7
              All good points, I'm sure. I still think solder, in my experience, enhances the conductivity of the joint more than just crimping clean and proper.

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                #8
                Originally posted by phydeauxmutt View Post
                Many people mistakenly think that solder is what makes the connection. WRONG. You need a good, clean, TIGHT mechanical connection before you apply solder. Solder is more of a coating that keeps the tight connection from oxidizing.
                If this were true than pretty much every circuit board ever made wouldn't work.
                Current:
                Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)

                Past:
                VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
                And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

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                  #9
                  This online discussion might prove interesting

                  Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
                    This online discussion might prove interesting

                    http://forums.qrz.com/index.php?thre...tivity.310969/
                    I don't have any issue with any of the comments but the thread is out of context. Sheilding requirements for rf components and battery connections are two complely different realms of resistance.

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