Battery Recommendations?

[Rob S.]

...I have seen more acid drooped than Woodstock as a whole.. lol

I used to droop acid.

[storm 64]

I used to droop acid.

That explains a lot...

[Crankthat]

I have not had the experience of either of the posters above with batteries.
But....
I recommend a AGM battery sold by a reputable battery company.
AGM batteries just last longer.
A couple of extra years of life for a couple of bucks more.
Hold a great charge over long periods of time.
I have had one in my old bike for several years.
Soon I will need to replace.
Would have been much sooner with a typical battery, a few years sooner.
Next battery purchase I am trying something different though.
Just to try and save weight.

[trippivot]

Johnson controls are the major manufacturer of many brands of batteries ranging from industrial to recreation - now to get a first run class "A" you will pay a premium and it will only be original factory equipment and biggest names. - class "B" or not accepted as perfect by strict standards will be sold under other brand names. but there are other manufacturing companies - 1 other thing to consider is the EPA and the batteries of today are weaker than years ago.


and of course you can get blem batteries that have appearance issues but function like a perfect one - but you have to be near a outlet that handles them - like in Phoenix the place is in sunnyslope - I have not found one here in WI.

refillable lead acid batts. are still fine and dandy ---- actually better in some respects - like predictability - so what if you have to put some distilled water in them once in a while -- you don't see agm style in pallet jacks - and if it is good for industrial use there has to be a reason ?


1 more thing to consider cheap batteries have thinner lead / lead peroxide plates and are not attached to the core as solidly a higher quality battery - so vibration is a cause for failure... just saying - I see me some battery failures.

buy what you like, agm are trending - mainence free but when it goes it's gone and will ruin your reg/rct and stator by direct short if you try to run your gs with a electrical problem - unlike your messy regular old battery you can limp/ bump and jump start and live with a weak crappy battery it will work the charging system but not ruin it. - except the rare occasion that the plates solidly short but usually when they short they melt away from the problem - not your agm its a killer for sure

[posplayr]

buy what you like, agm are trending - mainence free but when it goes it's gone and will ruin your reg/rct and stator by direct short if you try to run your gs with a electrical problem - unlike your messy regular old battery you can limp/ bump and jump start and live with a weak crappy battery it will work the charging system but not ruin it. - except the rare occasion that the plates solidly short but usually when they short they melt away from the problem - not your agm its a killer for sure

Not sure I understand what you are talking about with a battery short. For example if two plates touch, that cell is shorted and the output voltage is now reduced and while there could be high currents and heating internal to the battery, there is no increase in current flowing from the battery.

However, I would guess if a 12 volt battery with 2V per cell loses a cell it is now a 10V battery and so the charging rate will increase for the same R/R 14.5V terminal voltage owing to the bigger difference 14.5V-12.8V(normal) v.s. 14.5V-10.6V(shorted)

Is this what you are describing as causing R/R or other electrical failure?

[Gorminrider]

I like your arguments, trippivot. For me, so far AGM batteries seem too expensive for benefits. As they get cheaper vs wet batteries your arguments seem more important.

But I would never buy an expensive battery for a bike I haven't had long enough to be sure of its electrics.... an accidental total discharge, runaway regulator, etc.

Otherwise, I can't see yet why I need an agm. All my cars have done fine with quality wet cells (7 years +) and bikes, (with cheapos) do ok too by keeping an eye on them, so it's hard to justify increased cost.
... If I spent more time crushed under a bike, I'd weight the dripping acid argument, but on those rare occasions, drip tube has sufficed. Still, I can see that agms might be a good idea NOW for off-road bikes that need batteries.

[tkent02]

Nobody needs it, except a bike that the battery only fits in at an angle, like two of my modern bikes. We all got along fine before they were invented. But I have yet to buy an old bike that didn't have rust below the battery, never seen a regular battery hold a charge for more than a year, never seen one last anywhere near as long as an AGM. They don't cost much more than regular spillable lead acid batteries anymore.
But you are welcome to waste your money however you see fit.

[posplayr]

Nobody needs it, except a bike that the battery only fits in at an angle, like two of my modern bikes. We all got along fine before they were invented. But I have yet to buy an old bike that didn't have rust below the battery, never seen a regular battery hold a charge for more than a year, never seen one last anywhere near as long as an AGM. They don't cost much more than regular spillable lead acid batteries anymore.
But you are welcome to waste your money however you see fit.

It is about money and capabilities; while the capabilities/benefits are hard to argue with, the "is it worth it" debate can go on till "the cows come home".

[tkent02]

Like Oil threads
and Chain. vs. Shaft threads.

[rudeman]

$90 for an AGM is hard to pass up

[tkent02]

$40 for an AGM is even harder.

[trippivot]

Not sure I understand what you are talking about with a battery short. For example if two plates touch, that cell is shorted and the output voltage is now reduced and while there could be high currents and heating internal to the battery, there is no increase in current flowing from the battery.

However, I would guess if a 12 volt battery with 2V per cell loses a cell it is now a 10V battery and so the charging rate will increase for the same R/R 14.5V terminal voltage owing to the bigger difference 14.5V-12.8V(normal) v.s. 14.5V-10.6V(shorted)

Is this what you are describing as causing R/R or other electrical failure?

maybe I am using the wrong terminology - what do you call it when the positive and negative terminals are directly connected. I assert the theory when some agm batteries fail it becomes a conductor like a buss bar internally . if you are lucky if it falls to 9 volts and will not revive to 12. - but if it goes to no volt reading - well then maybe turn the dial from dc volts to ohms.

when flooded batteries come apart they do all sorts of weird stuff -I'm surprised more freaky stories are not being shared in a thread. or this thread . heck! I've had a free gassing battery explode in my face - had a shirt that looked like I got shot with a shotgun - what sulfation looks like, melted terminals etc...

for the average gs owner don't be jealous that you don't have a maintenance free battery - I have them - they just fail differently and leave you less options. btw I don't use the same shinnengen that is very popular either. I don't have half the trouble others do.

you will fine if you just maintain your regular battery -like mindful drain tube routing - clean open and vented drain tube - put water in it before the level gets below the top of the plates - oil changes are a good interval to check your battery - some times sooner because you have a powerful charging system .

yb14la2 is still the most sold battery yb14lb the sensor battery is not mandatory - save the sensor and put in another cap position submerged in electrolyte - or hook wire to switched positive.

you can drink electrolyte it wont hurt your stomach your digestive acid is stronger - tastes like vinegar - have baking soda in garage always and plenty of water -

[Redman]

YB14L-A2
is the stock battery model number for this (and 80% all other UJM of the 1980s with starter motors).
14 is the amp hour rating, and the A2 is the terminal configuration (else might get positive and negative on wrongside or wrong front to back).

Use that "YB14L-A2" in catalog cross reference for what ever modern version of battery.
Or, for your lowest cost option, get one of those specifically (open cell, lead acid, looses fluid level in heat and during charging, and can spill all over).

.