elactracal issues

[Guest]

Hello, New guy on the block here, I looked around and could not find what it might take to get this 1980 gs 850 running, when I got this bike the battery box and everything that goes with it was out/disconnected , so, took off the carbs and cleaned them with fresh gaskets and O-rings, I did hook up a bump starter to it and it rolled over and it fired with some starter fluid, my issue is that I test lighted it and The starter button will not work, it has power to the switch but nothing to the button I put a new battery in, put a new solenoid , cleaned the ground wire that goes on the frame that goes to the bat, still nothing, cleaned the clutch safety switch, r and r the fuses and cleaned all the contacts for them, does the plate for the main fuse block need to be installed to the box along with the solenoid? and the rectifier has thee yellow wires that does not have any mates on the harness, I have dash lights, headlight, no turn signals, My ohm meter is out for repair, can ya answer the question's? and have any ideas that will help? thank you in advance for your help

[posplayr]

get a voltmeter and call back in the morning

[tom203]

Have a look here at this diagram. Make copies- your voltmeter will thank you.The aftermarket stators often have yellow wires instead of factory colors- r/r's have many color variations.

http://www.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/80GS850GT_wiring_color-new.png

back up in the link for info overload

[phydeauxmutt]

Your questions, my comments.

Hello, New guy on the block here,
took off the carbs and cleaned them with fresh gaskets and O-rings,
Kinda hard to clean carbs with fresh gaskets, hope you used some proper chemicals for an adequate amount of time. Berryman's Carb Cleaner dip is a favorite if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner. Where did you get your o-rings? Hopefully not from a "rebuild kit", as they are often of questionable quality. Best source we have is fellow member Robert Barr, who sells them through cycleorings.com. You can also get intake boot o-rings and stainless bolts that hold the boots.


I did hook up a bump starter to it and it rolled over and it fired with some starter fluid,
First of all, THROW THE STARTER FLUID AWAY. "Bump starting" is pushing the bike (in gear) and releasing the clutch to start the engine, not sure how you "hook that up". Be careful with JUMP starter packs, some of them boost voltage to reduce the amps necessary. That excess voltage can do nasty things to the bike.


my issue is that I test lighted it and The starter button will not work, it has power to the switch but nothing to the button
Presumably you mean the "RUN" switch and starter button. Since you don't have a meter, but apparently DO have a test light, it's easy to follow the short path inside the right handgrip housing.


I put a new battery in, put a new solenoid , cleaned the ground wire that goes on the frame that goes to the bat, still nothing, cleaned the clutch safety switch, r and r the fuses and cleaned all the contacts for them, does the plate for the main fuse block need to be installed to the box along with the solenoid?
The solenoid grounds to that plate, which must also be grounded to the bike, as it is rubber-mounted. Don't forget to activate the clutch "safety" switch (or bypass it) to see if the solenoid is working.


and the rectifier has thee yellow wires that does not have any mates on the harness,
Hopefully your terminology is correct and you are actually talking about the R/R (rectifier/regulator) that is mounted under the battery box. Having three yellow wires shows that it is an aftermarket unit. Better ones are available, but the three wires on the R/R should be connected DIRECTLY to the three wires from the stator. They are not in the harness, you will find them coming out from the starter cover. Note that one of the stator wires might connect to a wire that disappears into the harness. Remove that connection, connect that stator wire DIRECTLY to the R/R.

[gliderider]

thank you, this is very informative, I have another post that will help also, I will get some photos up soon, again Thanks

[geol]

The starter solenoid has the hot wire from the battery and of course, the hot wire to the starter. There is also a yellow/green wire that runs into the headlight shell and connects with another yellow/green that goes to a switch that is actuated by the clutch handle. If you don't pull in the clutch, the starter button won't do anything, if pushed with the key on. You can easily check to see if there are issues with this safety measure by opening the headlight shell. There you will see the yellow green wires. You can undo the wire from the switch and just plug the remaining male/female yellow/green together and the switch is bypassed. The bike will now start without the clutch lever being pulled in. Of course, you can try pulling in the clutch lever as well prior to opening the headlight shell if you didn't know the interlock was there.