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    starter circuit issue

    I know how the starter circuit works. The circuit was working but has since stopped working. Power is getting to my kill switch and comes out and feeds the coils fine and gets to starter button lug. I think the button actually isn't the problem; have cleaned the button itself AND the contact. The problem is, there is no continuity between the button contact and yellow/green solder post. The post connects with the button contact though a piece of copper embedded in the plastic of the switch. When I put multimeter probes on the button contact and point where the yellow/green wire is soldered, NOTHING. No continuity. It isn't the solder joint as I can touch the copper post where the solder was done with the yellow/green wire.

    Can only think of two possible solutions. First, buy a "new to me" switch on eBay. OR dremmel between button contact and post and clean and fill with solder which is kind of fine work and may just ruin the switch. A little farther outside the box is running a wire from the point where the orange/white feeds the coils/igniter to an auxillary button hidden under the seat somewhere instead of relying on the button on the right hand switch gear.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    starter_button2a.jpg
    Last edited by Guest; 04-16-2016, 11:33 AM.

    #2
    start_button1a.jpg

    other side of starter button

    Comment


      #3
      Yes, you could put a starter switch under seat (I have one as backup), but should your bike stall out in some unforesen event, it might be dangerous to have to reach this switch to restart. Just get a used switch off ebay or from a member on here.
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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        #4
        What an ordeal! The starter button and the switch were not bad... put a piece of conductive metal across the button contact and the place where the spring sits which is what is actually connected to the yellow/green wire and there was continuity. When I tried to use the button, NO continuity. Since I had cleaned the button copper part and the contact as well as the outer ring around the contact, I was stumped.... then it occurred to me that the spring itself needed to be able to pass electricity. I put my meter probes on both ends and it showed no continuity. I lightly sanded the ends and cleaned the whole thing with a wire brush on a drill wheel and now it has continuity! Put it in and all is good. There was also a place in the orange/white where the insulation was cut and something had chaffed the copper wire so I cut this wire, soldered it and put heat shrink around the splice.

        OK... now have power to the starter solenoid on the yellow/green wire! BUT the solenoid didn't click or work. The hot terminal has voltage but when the button is pushed NADA. I looked carefully at the wiring diagram and noticed that the starter solenoid was grounded so I added a ground wire directly to a case bolt and all is good now and everything seems to work.

        All I have left with electrical is to fashion a bracket for the rear turn signals to mount from (getting rid of the grab rail) and install two new horns I bought. Only one of the OEM worked... tested the dead one with direct connects to the battery then attempted to adjust using the adjustment screw but it was dead.

        Comment


          #5
          You say you know how the starter circuit works, but I have to ask if this is something new on this bike or if it has never worked.

          If you have not bypassed the "safety" switch in the clutch, you will have to pull the clutch lever to engage the starter.

          Comment


            #6
            My clutch safety switch is starting to get finicky. Make sure you are not having the same problem.

            Comment


              #7
              I replaced the clutch side interrupt switch as the original didn't work. It works fine now. I did all my testing with the switch bypassed as it is a pain to hold a meter, push the start button and try and pull the clutch lever in.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by geol View Post
                I replaced the clutch side interrupt switch as the original didn't work. It works fine now. I did all my testing with the switch bypassed as it is a pain to hold a meter, push the start button and try and pull the clutch lever in.
                Although you have just replaced it, you may find that you enjoy that setup so much that you will keep it bypassed.

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