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SH 775 issue...again

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    SH 775 issue...again

    Maybe I'm just dense but I'm confused by one thing concerning connection the Polaris SH 775.

    1. I'm going directly to it from the stator as suggested by everybody

    2. I'm connecting the ground to three places as I read it: one leg to the frame, a second leg directly to the battery and a third leg to the mounting point of the R/R (seems redundant to me)

    3. As far as connecting the red positive, I'm intending to go directly to the positive post of the battery with an inline fuse (what size fuse in there?)

    My confusion is, what happens to the red wire that was originally connected to the stock R/R?

    Thanks for the help
    Current Bikes:
    2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

    #2
    Personally, I would take the red + output and tie it into the original red wire instead of going to the + battery terminal. No need for an additional fuse and the charging current paths would be correct. Just make sure that your fuse box connections are clean along with the fuse contacts.
    http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
    1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
    1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
    1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

    Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

    JTGS850GL aka Julius

    GS Resource Greetings

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      #3
      Originally posted by JTGS850GL View Post
      Personally, I would take the red + output and tie it into the original red wire instead of going to the + battery terminal. No need for an additional fuse and the charging current paths would be correct. Just make sure that your fuse box connections are clean along with the fuse contacts.
      It won't hurt to try this first.

      When the bike is up and running set your voltmeter to DC and put one probe on the red wire connection and the other on the + battery post. Any reading you get signifies voltage loss on the path through the fuse box and to the battery. Hopefully it will only be about .1 volt, in which case you are fine.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by JTGS850GL View Post
        Personally, I would take the red + output and tie it into the original red wire instead of going to the + battery terminal.
        +1, this is what I did as well.


        Mark
        1982 GS1100E
        1998 ZX-6R
        2005 KTM 450EXC

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          #5
          Ok, thanks. Will do this.
          Current Bikes:
          2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

          Comment


            #6
            As far as the redundant grounding, look up the single point ground. I have mine done similarly to this except I have the battery and engine both to the frame as well as the regulator.
            Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2016, 04:30 PM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by ShadowFocus603 View Post
              As far as the redundant grounding, look up the single point ground. I have mine done similarly to this except I have the battery and engine both to the frame as well as the regulator.
              I know you did not mean to direct short the battery !?!

              Comment


                #8
                How did I imply I was direct shorting the battery when we are talking a single point GROUND?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ShadowFocus603 View Post
                  How did I imply I was direct shorting the battery when we are talking a single point GROUND?
                  It's a little confusing when you choose to use red for ground. In this case especially so because there are red writes in the harness and they are hot, not ground. (ETA: I did see the legend that said all wires are ground but it is still contrary to convention and can be ca use for concern. )

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Wasn't my photo. I just pulled it from another thread I found on it here. Sorry for any confusion.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      For the single point ground, you want all your grounds to tie together and bolt to the frame. You don't need to run a ground from the r/r to multiple points.

                      If you can ignore the colors in shadow's diagram, I'm pretty sure that's how mine's wired (don't remember what I did with the engine ground strap).
                      Jordan

                      1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                      2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                      1973 BMW R75/5

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I wound up just plugging the ground coming from the harness into the R/R just like stock. I also ran a ground wire from the R/R mouning screw to the frame. Interestingly, the hole spacing on this new R/R marches the stock holes, but could not mount there because it was too tall and hit the frame. Also interestingly there are two threaded holes on the bottom of the battery box that's the same spacing so I just mounted it under there. Worked out great. So, now with my new Caltric stator and new Polaris R/R I am getting a very nice 14.3 volts when cruising down the road. Sweet!
                        Current Bikes:
                        2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by hannibal View Post
                          For the single point ground, you want all your grounds to tie together and bolt to the frame. You don't need to run a ground from the r/r to multiple points.

                          If you can ignore the colors in shadow's diagram, I'm pretty sure that's how mine's wired (don't remember what I did with the engine ground strap).
                          So where do you suggest connecting the r/r (-) wire?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
                            I wound up just plugging the ground coming from the harness into the R/R just like stock. I also ran a ground wire from the R/R mouning screw to the frame. Interestingly, the hole spacing on this new R/R marches the stock holes, but could not mount there because it was too tall and hit the frame. Also interestingly there are two threaded holes on the bottom of the battery box that's the same spacing so I just mounted it under there. Worked out great. So, now with my new Caltric stator and new Polaris R/R I am getting a very nice 14.3 volts when cruising down the road. Sweet!
                            Unless your r/r case is grounded to r/r(-) your grounding is just as crippled as the factory configuration.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                              Unless your r/r case is grounded to r/r(-) your grounding is just as crippled as the factory configuration.
                              Posplayr, do you have a handy picture you could point me to showing exactly where to connect all wires? Is the ground wire I currently have coming from the mounting screw of the R/R supposed to be connected to the black wire coming from the harness? Should there be a T-connection there that also goes to the frame? Thanks
                              Attached Files
                              Current Bikes:
                              2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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