Gs650e regulator / rectifier fault?

[Guest]

Had the main fuse blow on me today. Just getting it back on the road and have been tuning the carbs on short 5 minute runs. Finally getting the carbs tuned in so I broke her open to 9k on the highway and slowed to a 5k cruise. Fuse blew as I was holding around 5k in 5th.

Replaced fuse and rode home.

Went through manual and checked stator continuity and made sure it wasnt grounded, checked voltage output from the stator at 5k and regulator output at 5k. All passed.
Checked the r/r's resistances. It was wildly off. First, no continuity between red and other wires with positive probe on red. Checked black/white (ground) as positive test probe and got resistances up in the 500'sand.

Is this a fried r/r or is something off?

[Brendan W]

Do the charging system checks in Posplayr's sig.
Nothing one way and all the same the other sounds ok for a diode bridge but.......... I wouldn't trust a meter checking no-load resistances.

[ddlaz]

Do the charging system checks in Posplayr's sig.
Nothing one way and all the same the other sounds ok for a diode bridge but.......... I wouldn't trust a meter checking no-load resistances.

Did that after I saw the sticky. Passed. 12.7 vdc key off up to 13.5 vdc after engine turned off.

The manual states the resistances should be 5 to 6 ohm not 500. Unless I read the table wrong...

[Nessism]

What is the charging system voltage at 5000 rpm?

BTW, realize that the stator resistance can only be checked after disconnecting it from the harness.

[ddlaz]

What is the charging system voltage at 5000 rpm?

BTW, realize that the stator resistance can only be checked after disconnecting it from the harness.

By charging system do you mean stator output or regulator output? either way, had 80.1 VAC at 5k rpm, 14.5 VDC at 5k rpm. Manual says >80 VAC and 14-15 VDC are considered good.

And yes, I do realize the stator resistance can only be checked after disconnecting from the harness. .

[Nessism]

By charging system do you mean stator output or regulator output? either way, had 80.1 VAC at 5k rpm, 14.5 VDC at 5k rpm. Manual says >80 VAC and 14-15 VDC are considered good.

And yes, I do realize the stator resistance can only be checked after disconnecting from the harness. .

If you have 14.5 VDC at 5000 rpm you are charging properly. To keep it that way it's strongly advised to improve the factory wiring and grounds. The stator should feed directly into the R/R. The factory wiring has one stator leg routed up to the hand control and this wire very often develops resistance at the connectors and then overheats and melts the harness. The factory R/R grounds are notoriously poor too. Clean up this stuff and you should be good to go. Only other thing to consider is swapping to a SH775 R/R to protect your stator. Tons of info on that upgrade in the archives. Try a search if you want to learn more.

[ddlaz]

By feeding directly into the R/R do you mean it should be hard wired not through bullet connectors? Hope not but just thought I'd ask for clarification.
I've relocated all the electronics to an electronics box under the seat, all electronics are grounded to the same point now - I found a couple spots where my "helping hands" alligator clips chewed through the insulation with help from soldering heat. I'm hoping that's all there were and hoping that's what burned the fuse.

I've been looking into those harley automatically resetting fuses.

Even though I found a possible culprit, the resistance checks on the R/R had me worried, especially after reading that they are the weak link. I was also looking at replacing the R/R with a honda unit as others have mentioned. Just need to research the differences between the hundreds of different R/R's. Anyone have recommendations or should I just get the ones with red text in that R/R list thread?

[Nessism]

I already provided the R/R recommendation.

The stator wires should feed directly to the R/R, not the factory harness, the way you connect the wires is not overly critical as long as you have robust connections.

[ddlaz]

I already provided the R/R recommendation.

The stator wires should feed directly to the R/R, not the factory harness, the way you connect the wires is not overly critical as long as you have robust connections.

Ahh, sorry. I guess I didn't read it as thoroughly as I thought.

after re-reading your reply, and quickly reviewing the wiring diagram -- is there a need for the stator leg to go up to the hand controls?? It looks like it just loops right back on the right handlebar harness. If it's nothing important or unnecessary, I may do as you suggest and just bypass the harness wire.

I will look for the SH775 R/R

[JTGS850GL]

Just run all three stator wires directly to the R/R.

[Dragon Breath]

... is there a need for the stator leg to go up to the hand controls?? It looks like it just loops right back on the right handlebar harness. If it's nothing important or unnecessary, I may do as you suggest and just bypass the harness wire.

There used to be a need for that, but that was when there were still headlight switches on the bikes. Since the demise of the headlight switch, it makes more sense to bypass that particular wire and its associated potential problems. The reason that loop still exists is because other world markets still had the switch, so Suzuki kept the main harness intact and just changed the sub-harness that plugged into it.

There is no need to solder any connections. You can use bullet or spade connectors, or just about anything else that will make a good connection, just ignore that loop that goes toward the main harness and the non-existant switch.

[ddlaz]

Got it. Thanks.