1980 GS850L charging system woes

[bwringer]

If you want a good stator for your 850 cheap, just haunt fleaBay for a GS500 stator. You should be able to score them for $20-$25, often complete with the stator cover.

My bike is wearing a stator from a 2001 GS500. The R/R is from an early '80s Honda CM400, although I will likely upgrade that soon to an SH775.

The connectors don't match, but that's a piffling detail. You'll want to use good quality spade connectors run directly to the R/R anyway. Crimping is best, but only if it's done right. Since you're obviously too cheap to buy a high quality crimper, you'll want to solder the connectors.

[Steve]

..., I bought the WRONG USED STATOR. a 1982 GS1100G uses a larger stator than a 1982 GS1100T which is supposedly the same as what I need.

Just out of curiosity, how much did that used stator cost you? Just the money, not the time.

I ask because a week and a half ago, back in post #2, it was suggested that you can get a NEW stator (with a warranty, I believe) for about $50.

.

[posplayr]

With respect to Aluminum v.s. copper wire:

Specific resistance (ohmscir/milft) (20°C ref) Copper=10.6 Aluminum=18.52

http://apps.geindustrial.com/publibrary/checkout/Alum-Copper?TNR=White%20Papers%7CAlum-Copper%7Cgeneric

so you can infer that for the same size wire there will be 85% more power dissipated in a stator wound with aluminum v.s. copper wire. This assumes that the stators were at the same temperature, but because the hotter stator will have higher resistance (due to the elevated temperature) you have a positive feedback (increase temp==>increases resistance==>increase power==>increases temp==> and on and on) which will elevate the power much more than the 85%. It depends to a large extent on how the heat gets out, for example how much oil might be in the statro cover and getting to cool the stator. whole lot of variables.

For those that need a refresher, the RMS current in stator needs to be at least about 15 amps for a series R/R and the shunt is much higher . Power in the stator is Power = Current X Current X Resistance. (P=I^2*R)
This is independent of the way the stator is wound when at something about 3500 RPM.

Assuming a shunt r/r that is already burning up a copper stator, how long a will an aluminum would stator would last? I is probably not going to be very long indeed.

[tirebiter]

Steve, the used 1982 GS1100G stator cost me 2500 of my pinched pennies which included free shipping. The used Polaris rectifier/regulator added another 3749 of my pinched/scrimped together and saved pennies. I had spent $5.00 on the 17 gauge high temperature magnet wire previously and never mind how much (minivan fuel hog) gas to drive about 40 miles round trip to pick it up. The Glyptal was about $7. I also have spent another $14 for these little gems :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-Rectifier-Connector-Kit-For-Polaris-RZR-570-2012-2013-New-/291403162645?fits=Make%3APolaris&hash=item43d8fb6415:g:yVoAAOSwNSxU~yBm&vxp=mtr

and another $47.89 for what is touted as a "high output stator", a new one that says it is an exact fit for my GS850L. The last two items are scheduled to arrive in the mail, tomorrow. I still may get in a bit of warm weather holiday time on my Little Suzy.

If it wasn't for this forum I'd probably still be trying to wind the stator yet again !!! Who says I've smartened up ?

[tirebiter]

For those who might be keeping score at home they are FURUKAWA brand, electrical connectors.

[posplayr]

Steve, the used 1982 GS1100G stator cost me 2500 of my pinched pennies which included free shipping. The used Polaris rectifier/regulator added another 3749 of my pinched/scrimped together and saved pennies. I had spent $5.00 on the 17 gauge high temperature magnet wire previously and never mind how much (minivan fuel hog) gas to drive about 40 miles round trip to pick it up. The Glyptal was about $7. I also have spent another $14 for these little gems :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-Rectifier-Connector-Kit-For-Polaris-RZR-570-2012-2013-New-/291403162645?fits=Make%3APolaris&hash=item43d8fb6415:g:yVoAAOSwNSxU~yBm&vxp=mtr

and another $47.89 for what is touted as a "high output stator", a new one that says it is an exact fit for my GS850L. The last two items are scheduled to arrive in the mail, tomorrow. I still may get in a bit of warm weather holiday time on my Little Suzy.

If it wasn't for this forum I'd probably still be trying to wind the stator yet again !!! Who says I've smartened up ?

Make sure the R/R says SH775 on it to make sure it is genuine. Follow the wiring directions in GS Charging health and you should have no further problems with this.

As mentioned earlier a little solder in the crimps will bond them to the wire precluding corrosion from getting in. Some Deoxit spray applied will help as well. As it removes corrosion and treats the metal protecting against corrosion. This is especially important for anything connected to the R/R and any current paths between the R/R and the battery.

[Steve]

Make sure the R/R says SH775 on it to make sure it is genuine. ...

Very true. I have noticed some very careful wording on some of the listings that say "Repaces part # such and such". That does not mean that it's the same part number, just that you can replace it with this one.

For those looking at used offerings on eBay, don't drop any coin on the auction unless you see the "SH775" picture.

.

[Brendan W]

Very true. I have noticed some very careful wording on some of the listings that say "Repaces part # such and such". That does not mean that it's the same part number, just that you can replace it with this one.

For those looking at used offerings on eBay, don't drop any coin on the auction unless you see the "SH775" picture.

.

True that. The tell is usually phrases like 'replacement for' and 'with thermal protection'. Digging deeper they appear to be MOSFET shunt units.

[850 Combat]

I've put a lot of Honda regulators in GS bikes. 2 850Gs, 3 1000Gs, and an 1100G. Never a problem, and dirt cheap. Get one off E Bay from a GL1000 or GL500 Honda. 20 bucks. I have some spares, but I'm nowhere near my home. I want to upgrade to the Polaris type, but the Honda units have been absolutely NO PROBLEM.

[tirebiter]

Make sure the R/R says SH775 on it to make sure it is genuine.

This is what I have:

RR.jpg

Hope it's the right one

[posplayr]

This is what I have:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]45770[/ATTACH]

Hope it's the right one

Looks like a real one

[tirebiter]

Seems to be working like a real one. Stator is hanging in so far after 80 miles, today.

I have a crimping tool "AMP SERVICE TOOL II":

crimper.jpg

I thought somebody else may have a need to see the difference in stator size :

[tirebiter]

So here are a couple of photographs of the burnt stator from Little Suzy and the wrong one I bought from eBay for $25.00:

compare1.jpg

[tirebiter]

this view shows the difference in size more clearly :



compare.jpg

[Grimly]

So here are a couple of photographs of the burnt stator from Little Suzy and the wrong one I bought from eBay for $25.00:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]45783[/ATTACH]

Yep. I did that, too. Following a badly-worded and laid-out x-ref on the original Stator Papers, which apparently said the GS1100 stators were the same as the others. Only a couple of them are, but the larger ones lie in wait for the unwary.