Trouble is, on those catalog pages/micro-fiche the generator is listed as one part number for the stator and rotor together. The part numbers do not always match up though.
For instance on Babbits, my bike calls for a 31401-45120 generator assembly/stator/rotor. The same P/N also fits only a 1983 GS750S. No other bikes listed. When I go to the 1983GS750S page it shows the same P/N but then it does not include ANY other bikes that the generator assembly fits.
I tried to make sense of it and failed with my single attempt at getting a used one from a larger displacement GS. I had always thought the lower end on my 850 was the same as the 1000 and 1100 bikes but I guess not. I read somewhere in these forum pages where there were two different sizes listed so I was aware at least. Just not as fully informed as I needed to be.
Does anyone know all of the cross references for all the GS stators out there ? I was amazed at how many variants there are all from the same core, never mind adding in a larger core which makes things even more complicated. I Assume Suzuki had trouble deciding which scheme to use in the charging system and so made several different attempts.
And now comes along PosPlayer who it seems, has introduced the motorcycling world to the series style rectifier/regulator to settle it all, maybe for all time. At least for those of us who are more interested in driving these bikes constantly and will probably be adding or deleting electrical equipment as deemed necessary ... and less interested in keeping them as original. So far, my Little Suzy is very happy with the new stator that has 18 gauge wire but apparently less windings than stock (touted as high output) and series R/R.
The question remains in my mind at least, How many amps can this charging system safely develop at 12 Volts ? There is no mention in the Factory Service Manual. Now with the series R/R and this supposedly "high output" stator , I assume that might be a different number.
For the record, I ran the stator wires directly to the RR, deleting the handlebar loop. I used 10 gauge wire on the positive and negative wires from the RR. Positive is soldered to the red lead that the original RR was attached to. I also incorporated a single point ground but after looking at other schemes for this I need to put in a larger capacity wire from the SPG to the frame.
I still have not added an relays but I am definitely wanting to take the ignition switch contacts out of the loop that powers all the lights, coils and horns. Just to hopefully make the switch last longer.
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